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fiberglass hood


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

im planning on matching my fiberglass fenders with a nice light fiberglass hood smile.gif

but i heard it increases underhood temperatures A LOT! is this true, im doing a V8 swap so i know underhood temps are going to be a big deal.

let me know, thanks

-Jono

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This is a good question, I have been wanting to go the with the glass hood myself with the two vents and the cowl induction. I have never heard of the temps being higher under the glass hood so if anybody has any suggestions on this topic please chime in. Oh by the way, I can't see how they would be higher just looking at it from a common sense point of view. I mean if I change out my 75 hood (no vents) with a hood that is lighter with three places to vent hot air, it should be a lot better than stock in my opinion.

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Guest Aaron

This is total speculation on my part guys, but it seems logical that the under hood temps would be higher with a stock style fiberglass hood. After all, fiberglass is an insulator. However, I would think that with vents/cowl induction/etc. I would think the fiberglass would be cooler due to better ventilation than the stock steel hood.

 

My $0.02. (we need a Graemlin for this)

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Guest Anonymous

Fiberglass is an insulator when its in a puffy thick pad sort of state, sandwiched in resin I'm not sure it has all that much R-value to be honest, my opinion to be sure. Either hood won't have that much impact on under hood heat IMHO.

 

Venting would help a bit, but the best vent type would be like Gt40/Terry Oxandale'isk radiator vent in the hood to duct ALL of the radiator air outside and not in the engine compartment would definitely help, also ceramic coatings on the headers and such would help as well. I have only a cowl hood and access panel vents as well as the hood raised in the back maybe an inch and I havn't had a overheating problem in Tempe at 104 so far, temp held at about 185 (180 thermo).

 

Heat soak on the starter can be a bit of a problem, mine only does it when I go for a start after maybe 5 minutes of rest, it'll start hard but it will start. Give it 10 minutes and no problems. I just need to put in a ford style solenoid and that minor problem will be fixed (not a super problem, it never has NOT started).

 

Oh well, thats another .2 cents one more penny and ya got a nickel. :D

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest Want aZ

Hey Lone,

Say some really nice chevy starter heatsheilds in Summit, think they were around $30. have you looked for or tried any of those?? Just wondering

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Lone

 

How does the Ford starter solinoid help? Do you install it in series with the B+ cable to the starter?

 

We have a lot of advance dialed in a sbc 350 and when the engine is hot it takes a bit more cranking to start. I was thinking of going to a gear reduction starter some day.

 

Thanks

 

Miles

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im not sure how solenoid works in terms of helping a car start better myself, something to do with heat im sure. i run one and never had a problem starting the car, also run plenty advance, sometimes when very hot it will take one or two seconds more cranking, but not more than that.

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Well I am glad you brought this topic up (ford starter solenoid). I posted a question on the ford board and I don't think anybody wanted to touch it. Well one guy tried but I do not think he ever knew what in the H3$$ I was talking about so the thread just died.

My 71 Ford pickup has this problem. It has the Ford solenoid (duh) so I do not see how this would help on a hard starting Chevy. My truck fires right up when cold or cool but when you drive it for a while it is hard to start. Keep in mind the truck isn't running hot, that's what the other guy thought I was talking about. It is a 302ci with 2bbl carb.

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Guest Anonymous

It has to do with the amount of voltage a chevy starter puts through its contactor(solenoid) and its relationship to the headers right there (and in my opinion alot of heat is coming right through the bolts from the block the starter is bolted to. When the starter gets hot the contactor doesn't pass as much juice through the motor and you get that Raaaaa Raaaa Vroom type of start ;) .

 

Anyway, the Ford solenoid (contactor really) sits higher on the firewall and does'nt get as hot and can pass full cranking voltage right to the starter motor. This really is a problem in these cars (and alot of chevy's, early camaro's would sometimes do it to if the headers were close enough), check the archives for Heat Soak and you'll find Mike Kelly and several others have had problems with it and lots of good info on how its wired and such. I plan on doing it when I get a few bits of money to spend. Its about 25-50 depending on if you just buy the solenoid or a kit with cables and instructions.

 

This might just help you out on the car with lots of timing lead, but at some point they just don't dig trying to be started when the engines working against it. You can put a momentary switch in the car, hold it down and crank, release button when its turning over good, bang, it'll start. ;)

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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