Guest Nic-Rebel450CA Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 I am planning to do a SBC conversion in my 240Z. I have the JTR book and have read it enough to just about memorize it and as my pre-conversion planning draws to a close I have become curious about an alternate style mount. I really like the look of the mount in this thread over in the Ford forum: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=23903&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight= The look is excellent, especially compared to the JTR mount kit. It also looks like it would be quite strong. However, I have ZERO welding experience. Is there someone that could help me make a similar crossmember for my SBC project? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 The JTR mounts for the Chevy are plenty strong and work well. Why re-invent the wheel if it works. The mount location on a Ford is different, that is why they made that cross member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Nic-Rebel450CA Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Why re-invent the wheel if it works. Maybe cuz I like the way newer wheels look I really like the way this setup looks, it doesnt look nearly as rigged as the JTR mounts. (Please note that in no way am I challenging the quality of the JTR kit, I am just looking at asthetics) Not to mention I am pretty sure I could get someone to help me make a mount like that for less than the $325 plus shipping of the JTR kit. Even if I cant get it done for less, my preference leans towards the look of the mount in question and I am sure that I wouldnt be the first one on this site that decided to do something because of personal preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 The major disadvantage of going it alone in a motorswap is lining things up. With JTR, you can be fairly certain that if you follow the instructions, your driveline will line up pretty close to where it needs to be. Otherwise, you have to do like I did and measure, adjust, measure again, tweak, adjust, etc. in an attempt to ensure proper UJoint phase. All that, and I'm not 100% sure I got it right.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 Why re-invent the wheel if it works. Maybe cuz I like the way newer wheels look ....my preference leans towards the look of the mount in question and I am sure that I wouldnt be the first one on this site that decided to do something because of personal preference. No worries on that--yes, you won't be the first, but I can tell you that there is VERY LITTLE metal and weight used on the JTR kit, which is one reason why I like it. I especially like the fact that it is not seen for the most part: "like factory" so to speak. Very understated. It's fine having additional bracing and additional crossmembers and such, but why? If it is for looks, I cannot begrudge you that. I do the same thing with polished engine components. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest benjlv Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 you can make the same sort of setup without welding to the car. have the mounts welded by some one else..just mark where you want them. although welding isnt difficult. You could just tack it together and have someone come over for some beer and weld it up. http://240z.jeromio.com/ he bolted together a similiar crossmember for a LS1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 I remember a phone conversation with Jim Biondo where he also said he didn't like the look of the JTR mounts. He bought or made a crossmember that bolted or welded to the stock frame rails directly under the engine mount pads. I believe there's someone in Texas (Al Proctor?) that makes just such a part for doing this. Just realize that steering shaft clearance will be an issue. But as Al Silveira showed us (and others), that can be designed around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denny411 Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 I`m using a front mount motor plate. It gives me clearance for whatever I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 Actually, mine is welded. The arms are welded to the crossmember. The whole unit does bolt to the car though. I don't have steering interference issues. I did add a motor mount brace that horizontally attaches the front part of each new mount tower to the frame rail(s). Had to weld in some bracing there (with welded nuts on the inner sides). Welding, in other words, is definitely required for this. So you wouldn't be able to just mock it up and drop it off someplace. Fabbing the actual unit is pretty easy though. I made 2 little Nevada shaped pieces out of heavy stock, drilled 3 holes in them, put them on the strut rod cups resting on the lip, clamp, drill holes, bolt up. Then just connect the dots with the arms cut to length. Weld it up. Creating the new mount towers was a little more involved though - driveline alignment. One advantage that has not been brought up: on something like an LT1, the stock accessory (FBody) brackets interfere with the Datsun motor mount towers. So, this would clear up that problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 Those simple looking JTR mounts have a lot of engineering behind them. If you want to forge a new trail to the same destination go for it. But be prepared for a lot of work if you want it to fit as well as the JTR set-up. Also, you don't have to buy the $350 kit. If you buy just the book it includes the drawings to make your own mounts cheap and easy without any welding. One advantage that has not been brought up: on something like an LT1, the stock accessory (FBody) brackets interfere with the Datsun motor mount towers. So, this would clear up that problem. Only interference I've found is the A/C compressor. But, A/C would be nice. 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest benjlv Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 buy a JTR kit...position the motor and use the position to base new mounts off. then you can sell the unused mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest benjlv Posted August 7, 2003 Share Posted August 7, 2003 i will say that welding is very easy...at least MIG. I welded in some patches for rust in the ol 76 earlier this summer with a lincoln electric weld pack 100 with a argon gas kit with .025" steel wire. The complete setup with a decent helmet and a large tank of argon cost my dad $500 or so. Which if you think about what you can do with it isnt much. You really can piece together a good welding setup for much less too. Think used... Now after doing the minor patch work i am a pretty confident welder, but cannot make a real purty bead, but i can make something be the way i want and get good strong penetration. Not being experience if i were you i would just pick up a cheap $100-150 flux core wire welder and tack everything where you want it. Then have someone whos experienced take over with their equipment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 I think that the best reasons that one may wish to deviate from the JTR mounting scheme are (1) to obtain even further engine setback, and (2) to mount the engine directly to the frame rails, rather than to the steering crossmember. The latter is especially useful if you plan to frequently mess with the front suspension, where you would no longer have to worry about the engine mounts if you remove the steering crossmember. As for further setback, well, some situations may not necessarily benefit, others could use all the rear weight bias they can get; for example, if the engine front accessories can’t clear the steering rack. If you’re willing to dent/cut/reshape the firewall to accommodate further setback, welding doubler plates to the frame rails and then welding mount bosses to the doubler plates is a natural solution. In my case, the setback is especially aggressive, and the mounts sit approximately at the location of the tension/compression rod inboard ends – that is, locations where the frame rails are already reinforced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbeech Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 Hey denny411, did you make a cardboard templATE FOR YOUR FRONT PLATE OR DOES SOMEBODY HAVE ONE AVAILABLE? Damn - caps locks! Anyway why don't you go ahead and show folks a picture of your setup? I notice nobody said boo when you mentioned it. My pal Lloyd (who has TTed his SBC install into an S130 chassis) did his with a front plate too. It's a sweet setup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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