MikeK280z Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 Does anyone have recommendations on which brand of 2-part epoxy to use on an existing garage floor (30+ years old)? It is a 2-car garage that will be used for vehicle storage and light mechanical work. I'm not a mechanic, but I will use the garage for typical Z maintenance. Home Depot and Lowes carry the Rustoleum kit at $59, and $54 respectively. Lowes also carries another brand for about $39 a kit. Sherwin Williams suggests Armorseal 1000 at about $120 per kit. All kits and prices are for a 1-car garage. Someone I work with used the Sherwin Williams brand on a new garage floor (it was recommended by his painter). Can anyone tell me if it is worth over double the costs? Has anyone installed a 2-part epoxy floor or parks/ works on one regularly? If so any recommendations regarding ease of application, maintenance/ clean up, lifespan/ longevity would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 I used Sherwin Williams Tile Clad II 2-part epoxy on my floor. Nothing seems to hurt it. I'd buck up and go with a known good product like the Sherwin Williams stuff. I've heard some of the more available (Lowes, etc.) "pedestrian" 2 parts stuff is not nearly as durable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted August 5, 2003 Share Posted August 5, 2003 If you have the $$$, the best way to go is the truck bed lining stuff. They give a lifetime warranty on it. looks great and you can choose how much texture you want....from smooth to chunky. I have the magazine article, so shout if you want the details. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotfitz Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 We used the Home Depot stuff at work in a previous shop and it didn't hold up very well in the high traffic areas. Started coming up in those areas after about 6 months of high traffic use. With saw dust on this stuff it got very slick. I could pull myself up from the splits with just my legs. Won $10 once from it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idnevno Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 we have always had problems with the epoxy floors when you use jack stands and floor jacks. they have always seemed to chip the coating up then it would peel. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 Well, the good 2 part stuff won't chip very easily at all. The Sherwin Williams Tile Clad II in my garage is ten years old, and only 1 or two chips from things that it (actually the concrete) couldn't handle, like dropping a 2 foot crow bar from several feet up, etc. The jackstands and jack wheels have had no real effect on it. You have to pay for the good stuff, but it lasts. This is a pain in the butt job, so do it right, with the right materials the FIRST time. The stuff is slick when wet though. I kind of wish I'd taken some advice and put a bit of fine sand in the paint to help with that. Truck bed liner? I'd be surprised if it'd be as durable as a good 2 part epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK280z Posted August 6, 2003 Author Share Posted August 6, 2003 Thanks for the info everyone. It sounds like you get what you pay for. I only want to do this once, and I want it done right. This is my first house, so I want it to look good for me, but I also want it to hold up for resale value. Thanks again to you Pete, I'm going with the Sherman Williams product. I will have to do more research with the local rep and see which SW product will be best for my application; i.e. much older floor. I'll specifically ask about Tile Clad II Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 Most of the floor paints I have seen require you to clean the floor with a murcuric (sp?) acid solution. I think if you do this even a floor enamal will hold up well. As always, the key is proper surface preparation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 6, 2003 Share Posted August 6, 2003 Jim's right on the money. But even before you etch it with a 20:1 or 10:1 Water:Muratic Acid mix, you need to thoroughly clean the floor. This is a real pain on an older floor that has had oil, etc. dropped on it, as concrete is porous and it will soak into it. Keeping the oils, etc. from soaking into the floor, along with keeping the dust down is a great reason to seal a concrete floor. The Tile Clad II had instructions on the label for how to prep the floor. They had you using USP (such-in-such) to clean it first, then muratic acid etch the entire thing, let it dry, and then paint. It's a BIG job to do correctly, and the house will be full of toxic fumes (Xylene, tolulene, etc.) from the paint for a day or so. Unfortunately, you want to give the garage ventilation, so leave the door up. You don't want it to be raining (high humidity) either when the paint is being applied or curing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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