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some new pics of the work on mah baby


Guest 1fastz

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Guest 1fastz

a few picks of the engine bay and the new paint can be seen at

 

http://www.geocities.com/sacarguy1/pictures.html?1022117065970

 

the frotn mounted coolers you see are 1 for Oil .. and 1 for transmission..all hoses in the car were upgraded to aeroquip pushlock # 10 for fuel feed # 8 for oil and fuel return and engein compartment fuel lines and # 6 for the transmission lines.

 

removed the oil filter from the engine so i can use a long style and stil change it with the long tube headers in the car.. also removed all the chasis sireing and totaly rewired the car with a painless wireing 18 circuit harnes... NO more bad Z car wireing redface.gif )

 

If you look close at the front shot you can see the blue loom comeing out of the factory firewall hole..

the entire harnes uses gm style fuses with a gm fuse block and relays I highly recoment it to anyone wanting to totaly rewire a Z.

 

Ill get some pics of the fuse block and harnes to get them up soon..

 

I removed the in dash speedo and put in a matching automeeter one .. moved the turn signal indicators and high beem indicator to under the three center gauges by usieng low intesity leds there.. you can just see them in the pic from behind.

 

The wires you see on the crossmember are for the low drivers side mounted alternator and the electric watter pump as well as the wires for the fan wich run down and across to meet up at the alternator

 

On the inner drivers fender i mounted a line lock for burnouts as well.

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Really nice work! 2thumbs.gif I see you have the locking hood pins down toward the front of the hood... did that work out good for you and does it hold the hood securely? I have the same locking hood pins and have been trying :confused: to figure the best place to mount them.. smile.gif Oh, are u going to use the stock (modified) hood lack along with the hood pins or only hood pins? I have been going nuts :mad: trying to figure this out..[b:506688cc32]If u could post some close up pics of the lower part of the hood pins that would be great![b:506688cc32]

Thanks, Bob

http://www.72zcar.50megs.com/

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Guest 1fastz

i have a very light fiberglass cowl from arizona Z car there are NO factory hinges its pure pin on front and rear .. If you look at the pic without the hood on you can see where i put the pins..

 

the pushlock is only in that blue however there is a pushlock style hose made my AQP that is DARK BLUE almost matches your paint perfectly papa

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Guest 1fastz

alas the sad part is IM probly going to sell my car.. I have a 750 horse 355 setup wich it will run high nines with and ill ask like 9500 with it done up right with the r-230 conversion and everything ..

 

I just dont get much interest for my shop when I go out and run nines or even 8s in a 280 conversion..

 

Im going to by a rolling chasis late model mustang and start over i think

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Nice ride there. Im sure you wont have too much trouble trying to sell it. I would really like to see some pics of your gm wiring harness. Im probably going to go that route also. How long did it take you to install it and how much for your wiring kit. Any pictures and info would be hugely appreciated. Thanks

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I have a few questions for you.

 

What are you looking at for a completion date?

Where are you located?

What tranny are you running?

How streetable will the car be? Pump gas?

How come you don't go with more cubes like a 383 or 406 or something?

What do you think is the reason that your shop doesn't get more attention from the Z cars?

 

OK, I guess I had more than just a few questions, but I'm probably covering some questions that others would like to ask too.

 

Lay it on me with the info please:D

 

Dan H

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Guest 1fastz

sure dan i can answer you

 

This was a race car not a daily drive so a few things are not there you would see on one

 

the ac heater and everything in the stock dash were removed.. in there place plates were put and under the dash the ignition box and fuse box were placed on the firewall all the holes were then filled with gromets.

 

I used a jtr kit to convert it.. I made the mounts from the jtr plans.

 

the hood is pin on and has no hinges..

 

anything that was not needed for street legality and or function of the car was tossed.

 

there are tons of small tricks on the car like for instance the starter solenoid is mounted inside the car under the dash where it cant get hot or wet and cause starting problems. etc.. i will try to get more detailed photos as i can .

 

no stock seat belts instead it has a drivers 5 point harnes and it has aftermarket seats in it.

 

the car is vipper blue and has no major cancer just the usual rust on the inner front of the headlight buckets where the stock hood hinges go ..

 

the engine compartment and all door jams etc was painted rattle can black so touchups are easy when the car is worked on.

 

it had a 383 with 11-1 compresion in it .. 589 horses on the motor and almost 800 on the spray ..

 

I never got a clean pass out of it on the large shot as the huge torque would rip the rear half shafts in half..

 

with the small shot of nos 200 horse jets it ran a 9.72@143.6 I put the 300 jets in exspecting low nines and never got one pass after breaking 15 half shafts.

 

SO i tore it all apart and am putting a r-230 bulletproof rear end in it..

 

it has a turbo 350 trany with 27 inch tall hoosier cheater slicks.. and in front stock datsun wheels with good street radial tires.

it has toyota front brakes.

it has a 3.54 gear ratio r-230 in the rear with a custom set of half shafts and a driveshaft .. these should proove to be plenty strong for the low nines i was hopeing for if you put enough power into it.

 

battery was relocated to the rear as well.

 

exhuast consists of sanderson 1 and 3/4 full length headers and a short piece of 3 inch tubeing with a dynomaxe race bullet mufler dumped out in front of each rear wheel .

 

its LOUD but it still is street legal by letter of the law.

 

was it streetable ? yes drove it every weekend on the street to local cruise spots and 39 miles eACH WAY to the local race track .. then when i got there i put in race gass and sprayed the nos.

 

I would not however say its somthing you would drive daily at all.

 

has a custom aluminum radiator with a black magic fan on it stays cool no problem.. custom rewire of whole car with a painless harnes..

 

remote oil filter and trany cooler along with a line lock for burnouts.

 

custom 1000 dollar 6 point cage with door bars that actualy let you close the door and keep your armrest.

new custom black carpet front and rear.

 

dash has a full cover and the rest of the interior is in EXCELENT shape. except for the fact there is no center consol < that area is carpeted over > and it has a ratcher shifter there .

 

autometter in dash 6 inch tack and speedo with oil preasure water temp and fuel level for the fuel cell i have < wich has a sending unit in it wired to gauge > in the middle pods.

 

the speedo is not hooked up you simply would need to take it to a shop and have a cable made. and the corect gear installed on the transmission

 

A stock tank with a sump welded on it was in it but im probly going to put the cell in it this time for wieght saveings etc cause the tank has severe rust inside.

 

runs a bary grant 280 gallon per hour fuel pump with all pushlock fitings.. etc probly 600 bucks just in hose and fititings in the car + a 300 4 pump

 

has a msd digital 6 ignition wich not only has a built in two step rev limiter it also has one stage of built in timeing retard for the nitrous.

 

front and rear bumpers are gone and the rear valance was removed and the holes all filled and the rear smoothed.. the gas door is there but goes to nothing now. < considerig filling it in also >

 

the engine going in it is a 355 four bolt block 12-1 so no pumo gass for daily drivieng.. it makes 560 horses on the motor and has lunati crank rods and pistons good for 800 horses all day.

so it can handle a 300 shot of nos as well.

 

it has fully ported dart 2 heads along with a custom cam and team g single plane intake roller rockers 850 couble pumper carb etc etc.

 

Should be a solid 10.0 or nigh nine second car all day with this setup .

 

If i was to sell it with my old 383 motor I would have to get about 11 for the car as i have about 8500 in that motor alone.

 

solid roller dart conquest heads etc etc

wich was 11-1 and is for sale also seperately for 5000.00 intake to oil pan ready to run.

 

the reason no one respects it is well they all seem to think it wieghs like 2000 pounds lol .. that and to top it off 90% of my customers are ford or chevy guys mustangs camarros. etc.

 

yes i can tear any of them up .. but i could also do the same if i put my new 1100 horse engine in a 69 camaro as well and then they would all respect it and it would draw crouds.

 

I exspect to have the car finished repainted with FRESH paint and ready for wichever motor i will put in it in about 3 weeks.

 

Like i said would probly sell it for around 9500 with the 355 in it or 11,000 with the 383 in it,

 

or could sell the whole car rolling as a chasis no mottor or trans for about 6,000.

 

I could also sell the 12-1 355 W turbo 350 for about 4300 compleat to include EVERYTHING from carb to oil pan to converter to balancer .

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Originally posted by 1fastz:

the pushlock is only in that blue however there is a pushlock style hose made my AQP that is DARK BLUE almost matches your paint perfectly papa

:D Thanks, son malebitchslap.gif

 

The pushlock is probably how I'll go for any fuel hose stuff for EFI, if/when I go that way.

 

Great looking routing, etc ! rockon.gif

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Guest 1fastz

I am in San Antonio Texas.

 

BEing that i have a shop im parts rich money poor lol

 

I can put any one of three engines i have in the car rangien from a pump gasss 350 that should put it in the high tens on the bottle to a 383 that would run low nines.. to a 12-1 braket style motor that should pull low 11 high tens on motor and nines on bottle..

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How streetable would the 383 be NA? What NOS system do you run with it? What rear ratio are you running?

 

Also, If I come down to visit what is your favorite Mexican restuarant in San Antonio.

 

I need to be able to drive the car back to Oklahoma if this becomes a doable deal for me.

 

High 10's NA and low 9's with NOS sounds good.

 

Dan H

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Guest 1fastz

you could drive the car to oklahoman but the thing that would worry me is when you have a cam this roudy < Solid roller > you have huge valve springs and they require replaceing every so often

< i replave them abotu once eery 8 months to a year> but with that long of a drive and the fact it has 3'54 gears and no overdrive I dunno how the springs would take it..

 

I have no feers that the car would make it that far i have driven it to dallas and back

 

just that i can tell you after a hour or so of constant driveing the noise etc gets tireing.

 

this is no cross country cruiser its a street race car make no mistake. and it has the compromises that are required for such.

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Guest 1fastz

what i mean is this car was buil to be 1 things as fast as posible but still be able to be driven around town on the weekends.

 

its perfectly doable as such .. and I am sure could be driven anywhere.. but at oh 9 or 10 miles to the gallon and the fact that it has such a loud exhuast its not something you want to drive like that.

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1fastz

 

I guess there is always that trade off between max strip performance and streetability. Somewhere in between there is an ideal or acceptable sweet spot that will vary from driver to driver. I don't have a shop, so not having overdrive, like the 700R4 tranny provides, and changing out springs frequently wouldn't work for me. Does the turbo 350 really offer more performance opportunity than the 700R4? I know it has an extra gear so the drop off between gears would be better. Just less streetable without OD.

 

I'll keep watching the posts from the well know high-performance Z Jocks till somebody offers a combo that fits my Z-car street/strip sweetspot, with a little bias toward the drag strip :D .

 

Dan H

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Guest JAMIE T

Damn. The timing sucks. In a few months, I should be ready to part with my '94 Z28. I am going to keep the motor and trans, and sell the car as a rolling chassis. Its a perfectly good car that my wife drives daily(pretty much all stock with some bolt-ons). A late model Z28 would be a great car for someone in your position(trying to bring in business). These cars are hot, and everyone wants one. One that runs 8 sec. quarters would really open some eyes around town.

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Guest 1fastz

Ya well it wouldnt be hard to swap out a milder motor and 700-r4 but there in lies your problem..

 

no matter WHO builds it.. the 700-r4 is a inherantly week transmission.. i have had art car modles etc etc and when you drag race your car every day like i do they dont last..

 

sure they are perfect for somone who just drives it and the races now and then but they cant take a daily beating at this horsepower level.

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