Guest Anonymous Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 ok, Ive been reading the boards here for a little bit, and I bought the JTR book couple days ago, read it once and on second time now. I dont understand a lot of it, but I can keep learning Far as simplicity goes, Im in CA and would like being exempt from smog. This means the Z has to be no later then a 74 correct? What would be the simplist swap to finish? Cheapest? Whats the best stick tranny to use? I saw info on a couple different trannies in the JTR but I didn't see what was recomended. Thanks for help and you will be seeing more of me in the future. (believe me, a LOT more) And BTW- what year did the 280ZX start? Is this a good base to start with? Cost compared to the other Zs? Wow I really need to learn to put all my thoughts in one post and THEN post it to the world Anyway- any way to put an ehaust pipe one on each side? I love the stock 300ZX quad exhaust, and even just one on each side of the car would look better to me then a single. I guess a false tip would accomplish the same goal, but thats just wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 280zx started in 1979. The jtr book covers all swaps done on the Z's up till the zx. The rest of the information is somewhat applicable on the later 280zx's. From what I have read the easiest swap is to put in a 350sbc carbed engine. There is a ton of info on this site. Search it until your fingers are red. The members here are all great and helpful but these are answers that can be found in the search. At least preliminary answers untill you have more specific questions. The moderators are wanting people to search first, that is all. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 ok, I can deal with that. It can take more effort and may not be exactly applicable, but I'll try that first. OK- I really did search for this one- differences between 240Z/260Z/280Z/280ZX Just the engine size and year etc or is it a true difference between the cars? if no difference Im just looking for a 2x0Z pre 1975, but otherwise I have to be more selective info on recomended trannies? Theres a ton of tranny posts and its hard to find what is actually a good tranny vs a bad one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 The simplest swap is to do no swap at all. No, I’m not trying to be facetious – just realistic. If you’re completely new to Z’s – and evidently, to major automotive undertakings in general – the soundest advice is to spend $2000-$4000 on a 1971-1973 240Z (1970’s are too expensive) with minimal rust and good working condition. Don’t go cheap – avoid the $600 Bondo special – because that will cost more in the long run. Spend more upfront, for a car that’s already decent. Drive that car for several months, if not longer. Learning about the car’s strengths and weaknesses will be far more natural once you become an owner. Then commence with minor modifications, such as suspension and brakes – things that can be done over one weekend, ideally. Take the car to the local racetrack and participate in “test and tune” night. So what if it runs 18’s in the quarter mile? – at least you have established a baseline. At that point the decision to swap engines would become a tradeoff of price, preference in torque delivery, drivability characteristics and other practical factors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 that does sound like good advice learning more + own car to drive = good deal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonzer12 Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 Thats sound advice above. Don't rush into anything that requires a large investment such as a hybrid project. Enjoy the car for a few months, if you find you don't like it or its not what you thought it was you can just sell it with minimal loss, also if you don't have the skills (much like myself) be sure you have the equipment, patience and will to finish the project or you could just end up selling it half done at a huge loss. Not trying to be negative, I have just seen it too many times. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 so going from no car to a finished Z what is an average cost? decent condition Z, complete donor car (best way so I' ve heard in a lot of places), 350 and minor MINOR buildup on engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKDGabe Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 The cost is mostly dependant on your skills. Can you cut/weld/paint? If not the cost goes up dramatically. I heard of one guy doing it for $1,000 not counting the car. I'm pretty sure that was bone stock motor etc. I do know there have been posts in the past on what it costs. Seems to average $3,000. It's the "little" stuff that kills ya... the "while I'm at it syndrome". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 At this point I dont know enough to get "while Im at it" syndrome, I wouldn't have any clue as to what to add and no/no/no, so So 3K + car(s)...figure around 8K total for a safe number. Thats not too bad. Its faster then a 300ZXTT (or at least a lot simpler) and thats what a really crappy one of those costs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 Incuding the original purchase price of my car, all repairs and all upgrades over an 11 year period I have about $31k in my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cbrunberg Posted August 22, 2003 Share Posted August 22, 2003 In CA. the smog cut off date is model year '73. 74 was the start of the 260Z to comply with new smog regs. I've had 2 260's both were nice cars stock but when the carbs gave me trouble they cost a pretty penny to have rebuilt (I tried doing it myself and the result wasn't good). All in all the 240 was a better car for both performance and modification (no smog regs to get around). I had a 78 280 5sp and it was a great car stock, very fun to drive and reliable. I now have a 73 240/350 hybrid. It drives, it's registerend and a work in progress. It needs work everywhere. It has a TH350 auto trans which is great for drag racing but is very tiring on the street without OD. At this point I would prefer my old 280 for a daily driver but nothing beats the fun of powerful V-8 in a light platform. Here's my take. 280z = fun daily driver dependable. 64 Nova with built V-8 = fun to drag race easy to work on scrary and anoying on the street. I pulled the engine and tranny from the Nova and stuck it into a 73 Z. Fun for the drag strip stops better and handles great, but it's fragile. Now I'm beefing it up and upgrading to an OD automatic trans. Hopefully this will be a fun, fast, reliable, safe, all around car. That was my learning curve to date. The best advice I can give you is to READ this site, more than ASK questions. Scan through the forums going back years and read all kinds of post, you never know where old posts and peoples thoughts will lead you. I've been reading this site for years but only recently joined. This is a high end users site that tries move along quickly. The best thing anybody here can do is read more and talk less. I hope this helps Carl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted August 26, 2003 Share Posted August 26, 2003 Ilkhan, As far as cost, if you avoid the “while I’m at it syndrome” your $8K figure is reasonable – assuming that you do the actual swap yourself, body work is kept to a minimum, and you don’t include the cost of tools. You might spend more, or less, but if your budget can stomach $8K without excessive indigestion, you’re reasonably well set up for undertaking the V8 swap. The debate on 240 vs. 280 will never end (and has been the subject of many threads here); lighter and more svelte vs. stronger and more robust, etc. If you’re in CA, it’s worth holding out for a 240, because the smog situation is much easier for the 240’s, and 240’s are still available without a huge premium. Elsewhere in the U.S. the 280 is the more likely choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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