Guest szlash280z Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 which one is used most around here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 I'm not using either. I use a Profec B electronic unit. I tried a MBC from MSA that sucked, very temperature senstive, and slow to boost - it was a bleeder type. The other type of MBC gets good reviews, the ball and spring type; apparently it spools quickly and the temperature instability is safer (boost goes down when hot, as opposed to the MSA where boost goes up when hot). My opinion on the threaded wastegate is you are limited on how much boost you can control if you preload it too much - you can lose the ability to fully open the wastegate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 I love my ball and spring type MBC, the grainger DIY type. What more can I say, it works great at 10psi. I think it only lets you go to about 14psi though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 I dunno which is more widely used, but I'd say definately go with the MBC, if you buy the parts yourself you can have it for about $20, it's easy to put together and install. I didn't have the tools to thread the WG rod so it wasn't an option anyways. The grainger mbc has a little bit of an advantage though, in that it keeps the boost pressure off of the wastegate completely, until the boost pressure you have set is reached, so the wastegate stays closed and therefore the turbo spools a little sooner and you get more power under the curve, and faster response. If you just thread the rod, the boost will act on the WG immediately, so it will start to bleed off a little bit even at low boost levels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 I responded in your other thread too, with links and stuff to get you started if you want to do the DIY boost controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 I'll sell you my manual controller for the $20 + shipping, or I'll be bring it w/ me to Reynolds next weekend and see if anyone else is interested. I've now gone w/ an HKS EVC EZ unit and no longer need it. It was good to 23+ psi when I ran it with my t3/t4 hybrid turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 4, 2003 Share Posted September 4, 2003 I want one of those Profec B's.... friggin AWESOME boost controllers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cody 82 ZXT Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 I run the Profec B and I'm very happy with it. Easy to use and you can adjust on the fly. You do have to have some control over yourself. It's easy to dial in to much boost if you get gready. Also a friend of mine runs on of the MBC's that are ball and spring type and he says it works well. One suggestion that I see is that you would want to run the finest thread you could on the threads for the adjustment screw. That way you would have to turn the screw more to get a given boost change. This would make for a finer adjustment and better boost control. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 the grainger type isn't too sensitive when adjusting. About a 1/2 turn or so gives about 1psi increase, I had no problem dialing it right in to where I wanted it. It is a little temp sensitive. It will run a little bit higher boost in cooler air temps (nighttime). Usually about 1/2 psi difference. And it does spike a little, 1psi, which is easy to cut down by running the shortest hoses possible. I want the profec because I'd rather leave the boost set at stock levels when driving normally, get better mileage, put a little less stress on the engine and cut wear down a little, but then when I 'need' it at the push of a button I could bump up to 10psi and GO. Or of course you could just keep your foot out of the throttle and and keep the car out of boost altogether Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted September 5, 2003 Share Posted September 5, 2003 mine was ball/spring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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