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Clutch Shudder after warm


cygnusx1

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I recently finished my Turbo Swap and used the original 280Z flywheel with an ACT 6-puck clutch. I did not do anything to the flywheel other than lightly sand the surface to take off the shine. Now it shudders pretty badly, especially after it has been driven and warmed up. The bell housing was dry. There was no evidence of oil from either the trans or the rear main while I had it open. I am planning on pulling the flywheel and having it cut or purchasing a performance one over the winter.

 

Would this be a flywheel problem or a bad clutch? Originally, the N/A motor with my stock clutch and this flywheel did not shudder unless it was very humid out and the car was cold.

 

:?:

 

edit: The 83 turbo motor was automatic which is why I used the 280Z flywheel.

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Guest Nic-Rebel450CA

Could this possibly be a problem with the hydraulic lines themselves? If there is moisture in the lines then the fluid could be expanding in the heat (will expand some anyways) and could be actuating the throwout.

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there is likely no problem with your setup, the shuddering is a result of your 6-puck performance clutch. the puck-style clutches grab like hell and do not like to slip a little on engagement like your stock unit. try just letting out the clutch more abruptly. in other words, do not hold the clutch at it's friction point like you would a stock clutch. you will not get as smooth of an engagement, but you should be able to find a happy medium between jerking and chatter.

 

I have the SPEC 4-puck sprung hub (yours is a solid hub) in my turbo car and have had to "re-learn" driving the car a bit. BTW, i would always recommend surfacing the flywheel when putting in a new clutch, since we're only talking about $35 or so, but i would not think that is your main problem as long as it was in decent shape. try the technique above and see how it works for you. a higher performance clutch does take a little more care and skill to get smooth engagement out of it and it will never be as smooth as a factory unit; so go the tradeoffs...

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I figured out that to launch smoothly it must be launched hard. In other words no clutch slipping. However, any slipping on my part causes shudder which is almost violent. I can hear the drivetrain in shear panic. I actually had to make an "rise-limit" bracket for the nose of the diff because it was pounding around so much during the shudder. All of my rubber mounts are relatively new along the whole drivetrain so it is probably not them causing the problem---yet. It is my first puck clutch so maybe thats just the way it is.....

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Marcus, which four puck did you pick up, turbo or NA?

I just got my Spec clutch in the mail,Turbo stage two with kevlar friction material rated for 450lbs baby-240mm flywheel, I drive on street alot and didnt want a puck clutch for now, hopefully this one holds up-my current clutch cant take load very well after second gear. Im waiting for a 2+2 throwout hub and some other small parts to install this puppy. Ive been torturing a stock clutch with a centerforce pressure plate long enough!!!

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fl327, i'm running the 225mm (NA sized) clutch because i got a screamin deal on a 225mm aluminum flywheel and wanted to use it for my turbo car. SPEC guaranteed that it would hold 350 lb/ft of torque on my smaller FW. so far, so good, but i havent boosted past 9 psi yet since i still have no IC.

 

the 4 puck is fine for me since this is a weekend driver only, and is actually fairly smooth if you release it correctly, but if i had the larger friction surface i probably would have gone with the same clutch you did.

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