Metallicar Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 Please offer some suggestions on sanding the gentle curves ands folds of the bodywork. I found on my Z, that the right rear qtr had been repaired once before. The sheetmetal work has a few dimples inside the valley over the rear wheel well. I filled with some Rage (filler) and find that I just can not seem to get the filler sanded down right. I have tried sanding sponges since they conform to the curve (with some pressure). Rubber blocks that I have found are flat and won't fit inside the valley. Another area I have trouble getting the line right, the high line in the center of the door skins. Of all places to get a door ding! It could not have happened in the flat area, right? Is this just a matter of technique, that I just need to finesse by hand? Any ideas? Thank you Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 Well.....been there done that. As for the doors, I welded and filled/smoothed the holes that the oem mirrors mounted to, so I did a lot of sanding in that area. I also had to recreate both upper body lines on the doors (as well as other places). Anyways...to your question....get a rubber sanding 'pad' from a bodyshop. It's about 1/4 inch thick with holes through it and one side is 'knurled' (to grip the sand paper I assume). I also found that the curved handle side of a sanding block works well. The kind of sanding block that you wrap the sand paper under the flaps and it's held in place by little pins. That has worked the best for me because the hand side has a gradient to it, so changing the angle that you hold it changes the sanding curve. See here for the results: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=27591 Hope that makes sense... Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strotter Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 Second Tim's suggestions - I used the hose trick extensively. A point he didn't make, though, is illumination. Keeping the area you're working on well lit will help tremendously. Direct sunlight, which you'd think would be best, isn't. A high-intensity light put into various positions, even in the shade, will show flaws you didn't think you had. Put the light near to the body, shining sideways toward your eyes. Also, keep priming the thing between sandings. Different colors in the area you're working on will confuse your eyes. Some quick-drying sandable rattlecan works well for this. Make sure it's all sanded off before you put on the real stuff, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dot Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 A section of rad hose with the paper wrapped around it. Cheers...:::Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 These belt lines can be a problem, just as the center crease on the hood, etc. RacerX brings a good point in the cross-sanding. In this example of the door, sanding the upper portion (above the line) in a 45 degree pattern to the edge (upper right to lower left while keeping the sanding stick horizontal). Then the area below the line would be sanded in another 45 degree pattern, only perpendicular to the sanding pattern above the line (upper left to lower right, again keeping the stick horizontal). AT the line, the two sanding patterns will produce a pronounced 90 degree "break" showing the crease and any waves or deviations from the intended direction or location. Periodic changing of the orientation of the paper and direction of the strokes helps ensure even and smooth convex surfaces. In tighter areas of smaller radius, I've found that taking the typical "sticky-back" sanding paper, and folding it in half so that both sides of the new smaller paper has grit on both sides (sticky sides are stuck together now). The paper is much more rigid now and will conform to smooth curves while preventing too much pressure (if used carefully) from being placed improperly (this is useful if a block use is impossible). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metallicar Posted November 7, 2003 Author Share Posted November 7, 2003 Thank you for your help. RacerX- It never occured to me to use a hose for the concave section. I will also try the tape trick for the door line. Tim240Z - Your car is amazing! I could not say enough about it. You gotta be proud of yourself. I have the 1/4 sheet rubber block with the pins and the semi round top. The thing is pretty tough. I just never tried to use the curved side. I will also go and find that 1/4" pad you suggested. The sponges that I have tried seem too soft or not coarse enough to cut the filler. strotter- I am working in a very comfortable garage, climate controlled. The light is not the best. I am working on that though. I did pick up a 2x250 watt floor lamp today. I have applied more primer over the new filler. blueovalz- I will try your method too. I am sure, that when it comes to sanding, you have served your time ( and a job well done). I will keep at it. I think by Christmas, I should be able to paint. I still need to finish the paint room. You guys are the best! Thanks again, Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted November 7, 2003 Share Posted November 7, 2003 I used the tape and filler method to recreate my body lines (after some metal work first). The system works very well with a long sanding block. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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