JMortensen Posted November 19, 2003 Share Posted November 19, 2003 John C, I wanted 13x7's for a long time with a cantilevered 10" slick. How does Ian do with that setup? Is he running cantilevered slicks or just an 8" regular slick? Pretty quick or no? I know the footprint is shorter with that smaller diameter tire. I figured I could get lower with a 20" tall tire without compromising geometry or travel, could have decent street gears for the drive up, and lower gearing when I got there. When I started doing POC events and track days I figured out that I had to run bigger brakes, and bigger wheels to fit them in so I've pretty much given up on 13's. But I'm still curious. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlalomz Posted November 19, 2003 Share Posted November 19, 2003 Hi John B, I am about to install old style Ground Control plates on the rear to stand up my bias ply slicks. I had new style plates back there so I will have to weld in a new mounting area for the old style. Do you have a picture of your modified rear towers you could post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 19, 2003 Share Posted November 19, 2003 Jon, Ian does OK with his car in BSP but budget seems to be his limiting factor. I've seen him run some really old BFG R1s. He is on this board as Ianz so maybe he will see this and post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted November 19, 2003 Share Posted November 19, 2003 No pics right now. It might be 2 weeks before I get the time to take some. That was probably the least fun thing I've ever done on the car. I did have the spare tire area cut out and the quarter windows out at the time so at least I could stand back there and get some side access too while I was working. What I did was fold back the sheet metal on top of the strut tower to get access, make a cut between the strut tower and the quarter, hammer the top of the tower it flat, make a wedge to fit in the resulting gap, and weld it in. Then fold everything back and weld it up, cut out the slots on top for camber plate and drill holes to mount the plate and bolt it up. I wouldn't do that way again. If there is a next time, I'd just cut the top off the strut tower off and fabricate a new strut tower top out of 1/8 plate and weld it on. Oh and I forgot about the having to go to the opthomologist to get metal slivers out of my eye and having to work with only 1 eye for 2 weeks. Ever welded with one eye? Not fun. I have eye protection, but I cheat because I wear glasses and can't see close with them and can't see from any distance without them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlalomz Posted November 19, 2003 Share Posted November 19, 2003 Sorry about the splinter! When you can I would like some pics. From pictures of other Z cars with old style plates running 1/2 of a degree neg. camber they did not need to go up that high. Are you below 5 inches ride heigth measured at the seam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gramercyjam Posted November 19, 2003 Share Posted November 19, 2003 Less than 5" at the seam I'm guessing. I haven't measured it but it's more like 3 1/2" to 3 3/4". My harbor freight aluminum racing jack just fits under the seam and that is supposed to be 3 1/2" at the saddle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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