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California Smog: worth the hassle?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I'm having a tough time finding a cheap enough smog-exempt (i.e. pre-73) 240Z, even though I don't care how ugly it is, so I'm considering going with the much more cheap/plentiful late-70s 280. I figure I'll just score a wrecked mid-to-late-80s 350-equipped Caprice and keep all the smog equipment, then go to Mr. Referee Man and get his stamp-o-approval on the thing.

 

I know that people have done this, but is it worth the hassle? My understanding is that if you have the VIN of the engine donor car it makes life much easier, but I don't know anyone personally who has actually jumped through all the DMV/BAR hoops to get the thing legal.

 

Another question, while I'm at it: Anybody ever bought an ex-cop car at auction and, if so, how much do running cop Caprices usually go for?

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auction cop cars are usually ok as far as the motor goes, the trans is always questionable, my buddy bought a caprice classic and almost like clockwork at 100k (they get retired at 90k orso)

trans mission went out, which i think is because they roll hard in od all the time, runs good now though, i mean he got the car for 1800 and put about 1000 into it, and he drives it every day. the good thing about the cop cars is that they get fully maintained at 10k intervals regardless or wear, with oil at 2500 intervals.

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Guest Anonymous

I think one of our members Randy77z (can't recall the whole handle, sorry Randy the 70's were to good to me) has gone through the referee process as he put a later Z motor in his non-exempt Z car, he may have some insight on it. Grieman now that I think about it must have also since he runs a ZX. Its just a matter of having all that was required for the motor your putting in and it all must be functional. Once they check it out and test it, they label the car with a metal tag. Then you can register it and the smog people will see its been certified and not shudder in fear. Good luck with it.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest greimann

Don't be afraid of the referee process. If you have all of your equipment and paperwork in order, the process is fairly painless (except for that rectal exam part! tongue.gif jk).

 

It sounds like you have researched it somewhat, but just to recap:

 

 

- Engine must be from the same year of car or newer.

- Engine must be of the same type (no truck motors in passenger cars).

- Must have all of the emissions equipment originally found on the replacement engine.

- All aftermarket equipment must have CARB approval.

- The "check engine" light must be installed if the motor originally came with it.

 

Once you get install complete, you go to a referee and he will inspect EVERYTHING with a microscope to make sure it all works properly and then give it a sniffer test. If all is good, you get a decal on your door jamb that proves you have passed the referee process and you go to a regular smog test every two years as normal.

 

Chevrolet last produced a purely carbureted car in 1979. From '80 to '84 they had a bastard setup with an electronic feedback carburetor that I would steer far, far away from. In '85 and on the TBI, TPI, MPFI era started and that would be the beter for an EFI swap.

 

Also, with the new IM240 test, the dyno operators are required to dial in an extra 1000 pounds of simulated vehicle weight for engine swap cars! So it pays to build a fresh, clean, running motor (and dosing your fuel tank with %15 alcohol doesn't hurt either! ) 2thumbs.gif

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My question goes back to the subject of this thread, "worth the hassle". I'm in CA too and have already failed the first two requirements given above. But I wasn't planning on going to a ref. station anyway...

 

"But officer, this V8 came as an option back in 1973!"

Owen

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Guest Anonymous

hey mucho maas,

 

i have an ugly 73 240z that i am willing to get rid of and it has some upgrades as well.im in the san diego area if you want to stop by.first $800 takes it.

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks for all the advice, everyone. I already know about the nightmarish computer-Q-Jets, so there's no way I'd get an engine with one of those. It's going to be a proper EFI or nothing if I decide to go with the smog-legal route.

 

However, I think I might keep looking for a cheap beater 240Z around here, then just build a carbureted 350. The idea of trying to get every last piece of the smog puzzle working sounds like it might just drive me insane, though I assume that the 280s have better brakes, suspension, etc., than the 240s.

 

Sorry, Gearhead, San Diego is about 500 miles away, so I'm going to have to pass on your 240. I'm in the SF area.

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Dude, since you are up here, just keep looking--they will crawl out from under the rocks if you just keep looking. If you have the money, they will come. As soon as I actually had the money, then a decent one with mods finally presented itself.

 

There is nothing wrong with going the smog legal route on a 280Z; it can be done very easily actually; just keep the smog stuff from the donor car and you'll be fine. You'll have to get a catalytic converter (or two if you run duals) and they can be bought rather cheaply. Owen has a performance cat (Random Technology?) that would work great on a 280Z.

 

You have the JTR book yet? Make sure you get that thing too.

 

Davy

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Guest buschj

1973 and older cars are smog exempt in California. I know people that have “ILLEGALLY” cheated the system, so I am providing this post for your INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY!

 

They bought a 1973 or earlier 240Z

Registered the 240 in their name (no smog test)

Removed all ID tags from the 240

Bought a 260 or 280

Swapped the tags from the 240 chassis to the later model

Destroyed the older chassis

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Guest Power_Slave

Hmm, why destroy the older chassis? Why not use it for parts or trade the parts for other parts? The whole tag switching thing is pretty common and rightfully so. With all the diesel trucks and expeditions wasting fuel needlessly, I don't see why a very minute number of Z fans shouldn't be allowed to waste fuel on hauling ass:D

 

Regards,

PowerSlave

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Guest Anonymous

If I'm going with a post-73 car I'm going to go the fully smog-legal route. I had assumed, however, that I had to use the Chevy converter, muffler, etc., because I thought that the swap had to use every piece of the engine donor car's emission system. If I can use aftermarket cat(s) and mufflers, then it becomes much less hassle.

 

Since I want dual exhaust, I believe I have to get an engine donor car that had dual exhaust available that year, correct? I assume that you could get EFI Caprices, Montes, Camaros, etc. with dual exhaust from the mid-80s on...

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Guest greimann

The ref certified mine with dual cats, even though I went with a '79 Camaro style installation. Remember he is a referee and the cert is dependent partly on what the book says and partly on his professional opinion. There are going to be certain compromises that have to be struck in a Chevy to Datsun swap and if it looks technically correct, it will fly. It is also extremely helpful that you present a well crafted installation that is neat and professional with all the paperwork in order. Presentation plays a big part in any sales job.

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Originally posted by Mucho Maas:

..I had assumed, however, that I had to use the Chevy converter, muffler, etc., because I thought that the swap had to use every piece of the engine donor car's emission system. If I can use aftermarket cat(s) and mufflers, then it becomes much less hassle...

The exhaust system is thought to be part of the chassis not the engine. In theory this means using the stock DATSUN exhaust system, not the Camaro's. Ideally, they would want to see something "factory" on the car, but when doing a conversion, neither the stock Datusun exhaust nor the Camaro exhaust will BOTH adequately fit the car AND do the work of controlling emissions, follow? Therefore, you will need a custom exhaust on the car, period. A cat is in order since 1) the car came with one originally and 2) they want something on there that works for the system in general. BTW, this does not mean that you have to cut out the Camaro cats and weld 'em up. Aftermarket cats should be fine. Just remember that they have to do what they are designed to do in reducing emissions, so make every effort to put them in the place they (or 'it') will do the most good (close as possible to the front of the system). Hopefully this helps.

 

Davy

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Guest Anonymous

As long as I don't have to Frankenstein up the engine donor car's mufflers, cats, resonators, etc. in order to please the referee, great. I suppose it all depends on how uptight the referees are about enforcing the letter of the law- for example, the fuel tank is technically considered part of the emissions system, so do they require you to upgrade to a 1989 tank, with its special venting and cap, when you want to drop an '89 engine in your '79?

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Guest greimann

You will need to have an evaporative emission canister from a Chevrolet attached and plumbed the way it is supposed to be, but as long as your Datsun has a vent line from the tank running to the canister in the engine compartment, you are good.

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  • 2 years later...

I know this is an old thread, but I am considering doing a SBC swap on my 81 280ZX. I will be moving to CA later this year, so it more than likely will have to be an emissions legal swap. But, seems like you can't put an engine that is older than the year of your car, correct? Is there really any way to tell what year SBC block you have? I am not interested in running F.I. (yet) or TB injection, just carbed. I do plan on running the charcoal canister, pcv, egr, and 2 catalytic converters. Surely with all this stuff it would be just as emissions compliant as the stock L28.

 

If you cannot legally swap in an older engine into your car, could I get away with it since I "bought it this way" in Kansas?

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The engine block (esp. with a SBC) is not that important, however, the induction and smog equipment must be there from the donor (all the vacuum lines, egr, air pump, etc etc), and it must be from a vehicle of the same class (car=car, truck=truck etc), and of the same year, or newer.

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Tim240Z,

 

Thanks for your reply. One of the engines I am looking at is from a police car. I can't remember the year (a friend called about it for me) but its probably from late 80's or early 90's. If the engine has TB injection, will I be able to take that off and use a carburetor, granted I have retained all the smog components?

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