Guest bastaad525 Posted December 19, 2003 Share Posted December 19, 2003 Nice numbers 525. It is good to see people dyno this stage of the turbo swap because it seems like the first stop on the quest to turn up boost. Since the fuel is 10:1 it makes me wonder how much if any a person gains with a programmble fuel computer on this same setup. Would adjusting it to 12:1 gain more across that area of the curve? Hmm.... maybe you won't be turning up boost soon, but now you're going to wonder if some power can be gained by just getting a programmable computer installed. quite the contrary, when I reconnected teh O2 sensor, the car ran noticeably leaner in the mid range (11:1 vs 10:1) and the torque and hp numbers were actually down a few with the leaner curve 11:1 curve, you can see that on the second dyno sheet that has both runs on it. I also got a couple printouts that were just numbers, no graph, showing hp, tq, and A/F ratio at 100rpm intervals... here are some comparisons: Run 1 (O2 disconnected) Run 3 (O2 connected) RPM HP - TQ - A/F HP - TQ - A/F 3000 125 - 219 - 11.2 125 - 219 - 11.6 3300 136 - 216 - 10.1 137 - 218 - 11.1 3500 146 - 218 - 10.0 144 - 215 - 10.9 3800 162 - 223 - 10.5 160 - 222 - 11.3 4000 178 - 233 - 11.4 175 - 230 - 11.7 You can see that the numbers are always slightly higher with the richer A/F... so I'm not sure leaning it out more would get me any more power, though everything I know about A/F's says it should. What I do need a programmable computer for is to make the A/F more consistent thruout the range, and also I gotta get a fuel pump soon... I really dont like how lean it goes at 5k.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 19, 2003 Share Posted December 19, 2003 Hey nice #'s you got there. That's weird how your Z is running way leaner than mine did at 9 psi though. At topend' date=' my a/f was only about 12.0 ish or so. Maybe 1 psi changes the fuel map a lot? If you'd like to take a look, it's at: [url']http://dynoperformance.com/search_details.php?ID=407[/url] I hope I can 200 to the wheels like your Z. That'd be nice. John 82ZXT I dunno how much difference the extra boost makes... you'd think 1psi wouldn't affect A/F that much... I do know that CU-Zcar also posted his dyno sheets and he's running 8psi, and running quite a bit more richly than I am also... so maybe it is the boost? I think the stock fuel pump is really being taxed beyond it's limit at this boost level. ) And forget about the HP # it's ALL about the torque been going thru some car magazines and finding that at this torque level the motor is already putting down more twisting force than lots of new, powerful sports cars, including the new Z, Suby WRX (not the STi though!), just about ANY Honda/Acura (including the NSX V6!) and other cars I've kinda considered 'benchmarks' of cars I want to be faster than! 235ft lbs at the wheels is something like 270 at the fly... that's a damn lot of torque! Of course just about every new engine has the benefit of being able to sustain their torque levels for far longer than I can currently, which is why most of them have higher hp numbers... hp really is just an indicator of how long a given motor can continue to pull. I think my disadvantages here are that damn fuel pump again, and also just the antiquated technology present in the design of the head, and lastly, my VERY bad choice of exhaust setup... (still kicking myself... shoulda just ran an open DP until I had enough for a real setup!!!) So many things to smile about here... then of COURSE my good day had to be tempered by bad news... I just found out that my engine is leaking major oil from the front and rear seals as well as the oil pan gasket Odd seeing as the front seal and gasket, at least, were new. So now I gotta scrounge up some money ASAP to replace the front seal and oil pan gasket... I dont even want to THINK about the amount of work and $$$ that's gonna go into changing the rear.... friggin oil all over the place now on a newly rebuilt engine... I"m so pissed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted December 19, 2003 Share Posted December 19, 2003 Sounds like you got exessive crankcase pressure 525. Check and see if your PCV is working 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 19, 2003 Share Posted December 19, 2003 Got no PCV bro, just running crank and valve covers open with filters on them. I thought about that too... but with everything open there shouldn't be ANY pressure right? I'm curious... air in the block and head can freely circulate between either one right? For instance, if the breather on the block somehow got plugged or clogged, but the valve breather was fine, would excess pressure in the block, from blowby or whatever, still find it's way out thru the valve cover breather? And vice versa, excess pressure from the head could find it's way out thru the block breather? I ask because my makeshift filter on the block breather did get kind of clogged though the valve breather was fine. Hoping that isn't the cause of all this oil bleeding everywhere.... and lastly, if it were an issue of excess pressure in the block, if I take care of that issue, will it still leak oil thru the seals?? In other words, once it happens, am I screwed? That reminds me, should I worry about the constant (though small amount of) smoke that comes from the valve breather... shouldn't be so much blowby if that's what it is, given the motor is rebuilt) However I have NO smoke from the exhaust, and not a hint of oil on the spark plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted December 19, 2003 Share Posted December 19, 2003 I think little smoke is normal. I had a smoke like that out of my old engine with a breather on it. Anyway, all the seals blowing out on a rebuild motor doesn't sound so good. There must be something causing it to do that unless you didn't replace the seals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted December 19, 2003 Share Posted December 19, 2003 do you get the oil stink on a deceleration in gear? I get a whiff of it depending on how high I am.. in the rpm range, higher rpm more stink I get, and man Im runnin on all 6! dry plugs on mines too. I run factory pcv setup from block, from the valve cover just a filter, its been fine for a while, but the time I ran without a pcv my rear main started leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 19, 2003 Share Posted December 19, 2003 we didn't replace the rear since we did the work with the motor still in the car/attached to the tranny. Not the best choice but cost was a limiting factor. We DID replace the front seal and the oil pan gasket with new units. So what else could cause this???? I'm really pissed off about this situation... I was expecting at LEAST 100k miles outta this engine and already it's leaking oil from so many places... that's just BS. I think the rear seal was always leaking, but not as bad as it is now. I didn't want to mess with it since it's a LOT of work to get to it... then again if I remember right that seal DID get replaced, when we swapped the motor over to my car we DID seperate it from the tranny, and remove the flywheel to install my lightened one and my ACT clutch, and the rear was replaced at that time. The thing that gets me the most is that these leaks are RECENT, especially the front seal... I had checked the timing now more than a month ago, not to mention the episode I went thru with replacing the alternator FOUR damn times... and all that time doing work around the front of the engine I saw not ONE DROP of oil... then I went and changed the spark plug wires and was just checking stuff out and there's oil all over the front of the engine, all over the CAS, oil pump... thank god not on the crank pully or the alternator (but a lot underneath/behind them) and the timing marker thing is covered too. In that time frame NOTHING has been changed on the motor that I know of, certainly nothing that would cause an excess of pressure in the block, unless that block breather filter got clogged again (will check today) but again, wouldn't any excess pressure in the block still be able to find it's way out thru the valve cover breather? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 19, 2003 Share Posted December 19, 2003 do you get the oil stink on a deceleration in gear? I get a whiff of it depending on how high I am.. in the rpm range, higher rpm more stink I get, and man Im runnin on all 6! dry plugs on mines too. I run factory pcv setup from block, from the valve cover just a filter, its been fine for a while, but the time I ran without a pcv my rear main started leaking. YESSSS I do!!! that's another thing I"m corraborating as 'evidence' that this leak must have just started recently... lately the exhaust smell in the car has gotten very bad again, and someone mentioned to me it might be all the oil leaking getting onto the exhaust... it's hard to tell if what I"m smelling it just ehxuast or burning oil but it made sense... for the longest time there has been NO exhuast smell in the car, now suddenly I'm leaking oil bad and the smell is back... too coincidental for me. Dude by the way, if you're running a hose from the block breather into the intake, past the AFM, and you're running a breather on the valve cover, isn't that causing you a serious vacuum leak? From what I understand that means you're pulling in air from the valve cover, down into the block, and into the intake.... I thought it all operated as a sorta loop? Also, when you ran w/o the PCV and the rear started leaking, when you reconnected the PCV did the leak stop or you had to replace the rear seal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 19, 2003 Share Posted December 19, 2003 Yo turn on your AIM if you're not on it already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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