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280 Z8 air conditioner question


deMideon

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I moved the A/C lines to the driver's side inner fender in my conversion. With the correct fittings, they clear the engine. This pic shows it pretty well. I also used a condenser that had both ports on the driver's side to make it easy.http://www.pbase.com/image/18617643

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BARACU,

Your car is unbelieveable!!!! :shock::shock::shock::shock::shock:

Hands down it is the nicest I have ever seen. How could you ever drive it?

Do you mind telling me what size tires you used?

Everything about your car is what I'm shooting for. To bad I have southern car to start.

I have been told to stay away from the rear rap around bumbers do to them being poorly made and taking so long to make fit and look good.

If you ever want to sell it hit me up!

steenhagens@triton.net

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Love-my-V8z:

Tires are 225-50-16 on 16x7 3 piece Modular wheels. Suspension Technique springs lower the car about an inch, but there is no rubbing anywhere. This is the second time that I used the Wrap around rear bumper from the aero Kit. Fit leaves a lot to be desired. I chose to add additional metal supports to the bumper as attachments. A lot of fitting and glassing was needed to attach the bumper so that it was about an 1/16" from the body.

The "theft deterrent" system works fairly well.....one big drawback is maintenance costs, but at least he doesn't drain the battery! Al

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Rufus:

I made the A/C Compressor bracket from 1 1/2" steel angle iron. The top part, that attaches to the motor mount is 7 1/2" long. But , this length will vary depending upon your particular setup. Your setup with pulleys will determine where the Compressor is to be located. I, originally made it longer and temporarily clamped the compressor until everything lined up , then cut ff the excess and welded the small angles on to attach the compressor to.

 

A.G. :

The compressor is the Sanden 505. It is a little shorter than the 508, whuich is most commonly used and has top mounted ports. It was difficult to locate . I got mine from RP Parts. http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_Components/compressors/sanden/sanden.asp

As to the wires : "You don't need no steeenkin' wires" :wink: Seriously, though, the main harness for the lights up front were routed through the passenger side fresh air vent in the inner fender. The alternator wire runs through the frame rail, encased in fuel line hose. I made side kick panels for the interior, which allowed me to mount 6" speakers with enough room behind the panel for a Maxi -Fuse block and headlight relays. All the wiring runs to this point in the interior. Engine wiring enters the engine compartment high up in the tunnel and is hidden by the engine. I made up all new brake lines and moved the distribution block behind the windshield washer reservoir with a proportioning valve, so the lines would all be hidden. The fuel line enters from the rear of the carb and runs parallel with the brake lines, in the brake line brackets, on the firewall, so that's pretty much hidden, too. Funny, I've actually had people ask me if the car runs,because they couldn't find any wires, brake lines or fuel lines. :lol: Al

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  • 1 year later...
http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Major_Components/compressors/sanden/sanden.asp

As to the wires : "You don't need no steeenkin' wires" :wink: Seriously' date=' though, the main harness for the lights up front were routed through the passenger side fresh air vent in the inner fender. [/quote']

 

when the wiring harness comes out of the front of the fresh air vent, where do you have it going from there? do you just have it following the path of where it was originaly in front of the radiator?

 

i thought about running the drivers side wires through the drivers side fresh air vent. looks like i could drill a hole in the vent passage near the back side of the headlights and pass the wires to the head lights and turn signals there. that could work

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I "slottted" the bottom of the fresh air vent boot,so the harness exits unseen, under the boot . The harness runs in pretty much the stock location, except it is in front of the radiator support instead of on top. With the hood and everything else in place , it's hardly noticeable.

On the 76 "RoadZter" I'm building now, I did it the same way,except I ran the wiring harness in front of the rad support in black wire loom casing and wrapped it with heavy black tape for a neater look.

AL

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