datsunlover Posted December 23, 2003 Share Posted December 23, 2003 OK.. did a search.. spent last 3 hours reading through posts... am slightly confused now.. lots of info...but hard to get it all straight. I have a 75 280z. Hate the solid discs. Car needs brakes anyway. May be putting V8/other higher HP engine in down the road. Have friends in wrecking yards. Need to know a few things: Will 84' 300zx (4 bolt/non turbo) vented rotors work (with proper spacers of course) on my wheel hub/spindle? Will the Toyota 4 runner caliper truly be a 'bolt on' to my Z? (will the caliper holes line up without 'sloting/ovaling' them) and if so, what year and engine do I look for? Any clearance issues with 'aluminum slots' style 14" rim? (see pic of my car in album) Thanks guys.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted December 23, 2003 Share Posted December 23, 2003 I asked this question long ago hoping I too had found the secret trick in saving some money and getting fat rotors and brakes. What I was told by the two suspension and brake gurus on this site is that an even larger spacer is needed if you use the z31hub. Its easy enough to seperate hub from rotor and bolt the spacer up, and its a proven and safe design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedNeckZ Posted December 23, 2003 Share Posted December 23, 2003 Yes the package will work on your car. The spacer for the 280Z has to be less then on the 240Z. If I remember right, it has to be .375 in size not .50 as needed on the 240Z hub. I have it on my car at this time and it all bolted up without any changes. Just use the S12W calipers on the Toyota side. I also used the bigger master cyclinder from the 280ZX (15/16 size). I have the 280ZX early caliber and later disc on the rear. Only had to remove the brake bias valve out of the back brake line (just bent the line over and put the line back together without it). Some people have put adjustable brake bias valve back into the line to able to give them some adjustment. But I haven't had the need for it. I have run it this way since the year 2000. I started with new pads in it at that time and haven't had to change it yet. I have also run a few road race events with the Z car of club Colorado. It has been standing up pretty good for now. Hope this answers the questions you may have. If not, just drop a line and we see about working the problem out, Rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedNeckZ Posted December 23, 2003 Share Posted December 23, 2003 Forgot to add, that I had to go to 15" or 16" wheels to make this setup work for me. Luckly for me, I have a set of both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecp48 Posted January 9, 2004 Share Posted January 9, 2004 RedNeckZ What pads are you using for the Toyota Calipers? What about the rear pads as well. Someone made a reference to WRX using the same pad as the Forerunner, but you had to remove the "tabs", I assume they meant the wear sensors, same as the S13W (later 4Runner). Any thoughts? ecp48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedNeckZ Posted January 9, 2004 Share Posted January 9, 2004 I am using semi-metal pads in the front and standard organic pads in the rear. I get them from the Advance Auto store down the street from me. Haven't had a wear problem yet with them. They are pretty rotor friendly. So haven't had a problem in that area. Don't know about the WRX pads. I have used both the S-12 and S-12W setups and have a lot of track time with both. The only problem I had was with the S-12 setup and it had to do with the rotors warping. When I went to the 300ZX front vented rotors and the S-12W calibers. The problem went away. Both setups were simple bolt-ons. Only needed the rotor spacer for the 300ZX rotors. What I am looking at for my V-8 Z is the rotors from the 300ZXTT model and after market calibers and making my own mounting plates for it. Or will go to one of the companys selling on this site and buy from them. Take care, Rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecp48 Posted January 9, 2004 Share Posted January 9, 2004 Rich, I have the brakes, I just was waffleing (sp) on the right pads to use. Originally planned on Performance Friction - Carbon Metalic. Works great on my Explorer, but thought about pad hardness, ie: a pad used on a 6000 pound truck vs. a 2500 pound sports car. Rear was going to be the same manufacturer only for the 240sx, which probably a softer compound pad. Thanks for the response. Ed Palmer/ecp48 Athens, Ga. PS, I get over your way periodically. I work for a company in Lumberton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Ed, I'd strongly suggest you consider the KVR carbon fiber street pads I distribute. You can search the site, they should pop up a few times. All customers have been very happy with them. They're very rotor friendly always but have fine friction that very pleasantly just increases linearly as they get heated beyond typical which is very enjoyable in events/autox/panic stops etc. For street/occasional track etc I haven't been able to find any flaws.......if OEM stuff was more like them you'd see far fewer rotor/pad replacements required. Very odd to get the friction you want without rotor wear/decreased longevity I know, but it's true. I ran them for some 4 or 5 yrs prior to MML and it was one of my first distributorships I picked up. I'd previously tried many semi metallic pads and got decent braking but horrible rotor life with early warpage. Paired with fine rotors the KVR combo will last you a long time and provides great peace of mind. Pads for your intended fronts are $40US, I'm not clear what rears you have (OEM?). Just an option, email me direct or try the webshop if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BARACU Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Ross: I have your brake setup and couldn't be happier. While everything you say is true, another important factor is brake dust. I've found brake dust to be almost non existent. With an open mesh BBS style wheel, this has been important to me. Al Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecp48 Posted January 10, 2004 Share Posted January 10, 2004 Ross, Thanks for the info. The rear calipers are 240SX on Maxima Brackets. I am using 1984 ZX Rotors. Thanks, ecp48 Ed Palmer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 Ross' date=' Thanks for the info. The rear calipers are 240SX on Maxima Brackets. I am using 1984 ZX Rotors. Thanks, ecp48 Ed Palmer[/quote'] Great to hear Baracu & thanks, great point and nice attribute of the KVR's. I have very open RX7TT wheels which are best kept clean A very enjoyable thunderhill road course track day left them 'proudly' (was a blast!!!) pewter gray till I washed them I was very proud of the braking fun I had that day! Ed, I list pads for your rear's on my site under 'brakes' 'rear CNC disk brake pads'. Enjoy your setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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