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hows a 302 5.0 on power?


David K

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We are starting a ford 302 5.0 installation in my 79 in a few months. How does the 5.0 out of an early 90's mustang rev? Anyone got some numbers on a stock engine, or slightly modified (headers, intake, etc)? Any breathing restrictions that would keep me away from this engine?

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Guest dpiatkin

I believe the mid 90's and later(1993 I think) had a lower intake manifold with about an inch more clearance but 10HP less than earlier models of 5.0...

I believe the most used 5.0 seems to be the 1988-1991 mustang motors, HO if possible.... but the intake manifold I believe is 1 1/2" higher than the later 90's models.

So if clearance is an issue than maybe go with later 90's...?

I belive that the 88-91 put out 225 hp and around 270 TQ, and rev to around 6500 rpm, check this link....

 

http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/specifications/specs2.htm

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I used a 1990 5.0 out of a Mustang for my swap. Crispness of throttle is nice and the ECU sets the rev limit at 6250 rpm. This can be adjusted with the right software but isn't necessary if you keep the stock cam and intake. As for the difference in stock intake manifolds you can use either the 87-93 or 94-95 manifolds but whichever one you choose requires you to use many parts specific to that manifold, ie. throttle body, EGR and valve covers. There is also a difference in HP levels between the 87-93 and 94-95 engines but I have been told that this difference is really due to a change in how HP was rated by Ford. Who knows?

 

I would go with a 88-91? (not sure of the exact year Ford went to the hyperuetectic pistons) engine as they have forged pistons and a stronger aftermarket. Just be sure to set the engine down far enough that the hood and intake clear or you will need a blister in the hood.

 

As for horsepower stats, my brother and I recently had a Mustang (stock other than shorty headers, Bassani X pipe and three chamber Flowmasters) on a chassis dyno and it pulled 217HP and 275 ft/lbs of torque to the rear wheels. It also passed CA emissions a few days before with a HC count of 19ppm.

 

If you want more info on the engines and their potential check out Mustang sites like http://www.corral.net

 

I am very happy with my swap.

 

Josh

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The heads are the major restriction in the 5.0's. I believe it was carcraft (could be some other mag) that only changed the heads and headers and got over 400HP with stock everything else. I would look for a 87-92 engine with the stock forged pistons. The 94/95 intake is about 1.5inch's lower so they have more hood clearance. The hypereutectic pistons dont do nearly as well under boost or no2 so if those are in your plans I would avoid those blocks. I believe the 87/88 were the most powerful of all the 5.0's. Keep us updated on the swap, as I am interested in seeing what you are going to use for drivers side header.

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Guest bluex_v1

Just a couple of thoughts for you that weren't mentioned, though you will probably find this info on many mustang sites.

 

In my opinion, if you are going through the trouble of an engine swap you ought to go ahead and port the stock heads' exhaust and put in a new cam. :wink: I think you would want to keep the powerband in the 3-5k range, because even with higher end torque profile, you will still have plenty to get a Z moving from a stop. Its weird, in a fun way, but mine really comes alive right at 3k and almost feels like it has spooled up.

 

You pretty much, without much question, will want a Mass Air Flow equiped engine if you are wanting to keep the EFI gear, unless you plan to leave it mostly stock. MAF will be present on 89-95 5.0's and 88's originally sold in Cali. You can tell quite quickly by checking out the intake hose...it will have about a 3 inch wide silver meter hoseclamped in the middle with a flat black electrical connector on the top of it.

 

The primary restriction in the 5.0s is their exhaust side. Look up some info on GT40p heads from the v8 explorers...they are a decent cheap option with better flow if you don't want to port, but there are some header compatability issues (which would probably have to be adressed anyway because of the Z surrounding the motor). The intake tract is relatively acceptable.

 

I wouldn't worry too much about trying to find one of the quasi-forged piston motors. They aren't true forged slugs like you would buy from the aftermarket. If you are going to apply boost to an HO 5.0, you will probably want new pistons anyway to drop the compression ratio. As for n2o, I would feel safe spraying up to 100hp on stock stuff, beyond that I'd want to overhaul the whole motor and put real smooth aftermarket forged pistons in.

 

Be careful of corral.net. There is a lot of good info on there, but also a lot of people pulling stuff out of their nether-regions and posting it as fact. You can probably pick up pretty quickly who the good sources are. Search for posts by 'kim' for example. He/she aparently knows his/her stuff.

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I have a 1989 5.0L in my 1974 260z. The car is not set-up for drag racing (I''m into autocross).

 

The engine came from a junk yard out of a wrecked 1989 mustang highway patrol car. With a bone stock 5.0L engine and t5 tranny, the car ran 13.70's at 100mph (2850 with driver and 16 gal of gas).

 

I added 1.72 roller rockers, a 73mm mass air and 24# injectors, and the car ran 13.20 @ 103 (still 2850)

 

I added edelbrock aluminum heads, Crower 15511 cam, 65mm TB, and a cobra intake, and the car ran 12.42 at 113 (2700 lb). This is all with the stock high milage bottom end. I've never even looked at the main bearings.

 

Next, I plan to build a 331 stroker with a little more compression. I'm hoping for some 11 sec passes with the car in autocross trim.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest dpiatkin

ya, me too..... would rather have EFI..... But DANG !! thats some easy mods for some great HP numbers.

I wonder what the HP numbers might be without the headers and carb. set-up ?? with the stock EFI and exhaust...... Could still be a great and cheap build for a street car.

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I'm finally moving into a place with a garage at the end of this month and hoping to FINALLY have a place to work on the project in peace. I would love to have over 400 HP in a ~2400 pound car, but I'd like to see how it could be done on a reasonable budget with EFI so I have to get educated on the aftermarket intakes.

 

Cheers

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In some other states when you swap engines and tag a car, you can tag it as a street rod or historic,and you can use whatever induction or engine...

on the f.i. intake there are several that come to mind that will support 400hp. the EDELBROCK PERFORMER RPM,THE VICTOR JR,THE TRICK FLOW TRACKHEAT AND R SERIES,THE HOLLEY SYSTEM MAX2,the old SALEEN/VORTEC INTAKE..these will all support 400hp...with the right lb injectors and cylinder head cfm flow. :wink:

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In CA if the car was labled historic I think it can only be driven 25 miles a month or so, its too low for me.

 

Technically the car is supposed to be re-certified in this state which means it would have to be smog tested as the year of engine that was transplanted, I think I will convenieintly forget to do this, just have to stay out of trouble.

 

It would also be defrauding the insurance company :?

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Well it depends on how "inventive you want to be with it...but street rod would mean that it was altered from stock form for show,or special events...

@ least in Md.

But none the less 400hp is posible f.i with a 302(5L)

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