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Release Bearing Touching Pressure plate Fingers


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Hello all,

I just installed a new clutch kit (p/p, disc,release bearing and collar) on my 73 240zt running 10psi ,I.C and 3" exh.

This is my setup: '81 280zxt motor

'83 turbo flywheel(resurfaced)

After market turbo Pressure Plateand and disc

Turbo release bearing and collar

280zx Turbo release fork.

82 282zx tranny.(NA)

82 new slave cylinder

 

All of the gears engage and disengage pretty easy. When I release the clutch pedal, engagement is about 1 to 2 inches from the floor. The clutch and break pedal is about the same height. Clutch pedal is about 8'' form the floor.

My major concern is that the release bearing is still making contact with the p/p fingers.

I adjusted the master cylinder rod (near clutch pedal) so that there is a freeplay(Appox. 1/8 to 1/4 inch) and still it touches. If I continue to back off further, the clutch would not engage.

With the car jacked up, I can see the RB. ever so lightly, touching the clutch fingers.

With the car idling in neutral, and the slave cylinder removed, the RB is still touching the fingers ( slightly). Now if I push the release fork with my hand in a forward direction, only then does the bearing moves away from the fingers. As soon as I let it go, it touches the fingers again.

 

My concern is that no matter how I adjust the clutch pedal height or the clutch rod( their are no other adjustment to make) the release bearing still touches the fingers.

 

 

Would I be able to solve this problem by using the shorter collar (240z)collar instead of the longer turbo collar?

 

 

 

Any advise would be appreciated, ( as you know, a one man tranny drop is a real pain.

.

 

Thanks, Gentlemen

Kenny :(

 

Daily Driver- 1973 240z with a 1981 280zx turbo motor, 1982 5-speed ,3.9 diff. Supra I.C and running 10 psi of boost. (8.823 sec.@ 82.19 mph 1/8 mile)

 

 

 

 

:(

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I would consider a spring of some sort to keep some light, but constant tension on the arm holding the T/O bearing back. My initial thougt about your problem is that perhaps the lever arm is not seated onto the pivot ball correctly (going on some old and perhaps wrong memories here). Does this arm use a wire retainer to hold it down, and if so, have you insured that it is fully "clipped" into place?

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There is a manual adjust slave cylinder, and a self adjusting slave. IIRC, the self adjusting slave and manual slave are the same thing internally, the only difference is the manual slave has a spring between the slave and the throwout fork to return the slave, and the pin with the adjuster nuts that sticks out of the slave. Also, the fork has a hole drilled in it to allow the pin to stick thru the end of the fork, so that the part that you adjust is the part that pushes on the fork, not the end of the pin.

 

It's been a while, but I am pretty confident the above stuff is correct.

 

So a manual slave and fork may allow you more adjustment, not sure if you could get the correct adjustment if you changed the collar or not. You'd have to find someone running all the same components as you've got, who has it working properly.

 

Jon

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I would return the pushrod at the MC back to a normally adjusted length. It appears this has no effect on what you are seeing at the T/O bearing. You stated early on that with no SC at all, the fork tries to move the T/O bearing back into close proximity to the PP. Sometimes the rubber boots around the fork (attached to the bellhousing) will cause this if they are brand new, but then how could you see what you're seeing with the boot in place. Anyway, I can't think of anything else to tell you on this.

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