Need help oil pump....

[utvolman99]

Well, I have a 9qt road racing oil pan that came with its own pick up. The pickup would in no way begin to go into the intake of the pump. I ground just a little on the end of the pickup to bevel the tube and then used a hammer and punch to get the picup fully installed. Here is the problem...

 

now the pickup tube just slides into the pump. It is not tight at all! I was wondering about using teflon tape or RTV to help seal up the connection. This is a low profile pan and the screen end of the pickup actually bolts to the bottom of the pump so not fitting snugly will not let the pickup move around only break sucktion.

 

Would the RTV be okay? Should I use teflon tape instead?

 

Thanks for your help

[denny411]

DON`T use rtv or teflon on on the pump pickup tube. The risk of some breaking loose and clogging an oil passage is way too great.

 

I alway tack weld the tube in place after I`m sure the pickup to pan clearance is correct.

[utvolman99]

yeah... I was having the same thoughts about the RTV and teflon. Here is my problem though. I dont think that the tube fits tight enough to make me feel comfortable about it not sucking air. Should I just solder it on? If so what kind of solder would you use?

 

By the way. Are you still in GA or are you back in OH?

[Brad-ManQ45]

I think you mean Alabama. Don't solder - either braze or weld it on.

[utvolman99]

I think you mean Alabama. Don't solder - either braze or weld it on.

 

Yeah, I do mean Bama. I was down there on business a couple of years ago and dropped by his house to buy a R200. I will look into having a friend of mine torch weld the pickup on (assuming that it wouldnt heat things up too much?). With spot welds I do okay, anything past that and I have to find someone.

[grumpyvette]

brazethe pick-up in place ONLY AFTER REMOVING THE BYEPASS SPRING AND VERIFYING THAT THE PICK-UP IS 3/8"-1/2" from the pan floor when the pans INSTALLED, then reinstall the spring when its room temp.

[grumpyvette]

braze the pick-up in place ONLY AFTER REMOVING THE BYEPASS SPRING AND VERIFYING THAT THE PICK-UP IS 3/8"-1/2" from the pan floor when the pans INSTALLED, then reinstall the spring with the internal piston, on the byepass circuit when its room temp. check that the internal piston on that spring moves freely and that the gears spin with no binding points, check that the pick-up tube does not extend internally enought to bind the gears, check the pumps end gear and other clearances and put a small amount of moly grease on the gears to help it prime fast before reassembling it.

don,t forget to prime the engine before starting it

 

almost every sbc engine I build uses a standard voluum big block pump or a high voluum standard pressure oil pump with no problems at all, my 383 in my 1985 vette gets pulled out and checked , new rings and bearings just as a standard rebuild about every 18 months and not once has either the distrib. or cam gear show excessive or for that matter even measurable wear, the fact that I run a 9.5qt oil pan, with magnets that pick up all metalic dust, good oil filters, and 90% plus synthetic oil, a groove in the lower distributor oil band, that sprays a constant stream of oil onto the contact point I think is the main factor BTW

 

http://www.melling.com/highvol.html

 

http://www.melling.com/engoil.html

 

http://www.melling.com/miscon.html

 

now think it thru,

(1)pressure is the resistance to oil flow

(2) the high voluum pump can push about 25% more oil

(3) the oil pump bye-pass circuit limits the max pressure in either size pump to about 65lbs-75 lbs MAXIMUM before it BYE-PASSES all additional oil voluum

(4) the engine can accept and use only the max flow voluum that the engine passages can flow at the max pressure the pump provides , at any point less than max pressure the passages can flow only what the pressure and voluum provided by the pump supplies

(5)if the bearing clearances can flow more than the pump provides in voluum and pressure at any rpm level the film of cooling oil that provides a cushion between the bearing surfaces are at risk of not being supported and seperated by that cushion of oil

(6) now since the sweep voluum is greater with the high voluum pump it will reach that bye-pass circuits max pressure at about 25% lower rpms and supply a POTENTIALLY higher voluum of oil to the supply passages/bearings

(7)SO... all a high voluum pump does is provide the maximum oil flow the engine can use up to the max pressure allowed by the bye-pass circuit at a 25% lower rpm level if the system can reach max pressure, but it also supplies 25% more oil at every rpm level below that point to provide additional cooling and protection for the engine. and if the engine can flow more than the stock pump can provide the high voluum pump helps fill the need faster

(8)oil flow through the bearing clearances INCREASES at a faster rate as the rpms increase

(9) in most engines the oil flow can be provided by the stock pump IF the clearances are close to stock AND THE RPM LEVELS ARE KEPT IN ABOUT THE idle-6000rpm range but if rpm levels exceed ABOUT 6000rpm,or if bearing loads greatly exceed the stock hp levels, or the clearances are greater than stock, the high voluum pump is a good idea , simply because it potentially provides that extra volume of oil.

if you choose to install a high volume oil pump you should SERIOUSLY concider the fact that the pump is only a small part of the whole oil system,(which includes a high volume BAFFLED oil pan (7qts or more is ideal) and a windage screen, which is necessary to quickly return that extra oil to the sump, and doing the distributor mod is a big help, as it prevents any potential for cam/gear wear (something already almost non-existant with synthetic oil and the proper distributor gear material.)

[denny411]

I`m in Ohio for good now, and glad to be back in my own shop instead of the small two car garage that I had in Alabama.

 

I may try to make it down to the SEZ meet this month, but i`ll have to see how prgress goes on my current projects first.