zeeboost Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 It has 4,000 miles on it, it came from a 350, and I've seen it run (which it runs like a cheetah, on speed, with its ass on fire) The block is bored .030 over with hypereutectic flat top pistons and all ARP bolts. He wants $600, which sounds a bit high to me, but then again I haven't been in the v8 market for a while. If this isn't a reasonable price, what should I offer him? Also, is there anything in specific that I should look for to check for weak spots? Sorry, I really hate asking this question on here, as I know it's one of those annoying posts that you don't want to answer, but I'm just trying to keep from getting screwed, like I have been in the past. Thanks for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ron BOLIN Posted March 6, 2004 Share Posted March 6, 2004 its only money zeeboost... just kidding, offer him less and see what happens. if it runs like you say and you want it ,buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 Are you talking about a short block or just a block? It sounds like you are talking about a short block(no heads, intake, oil pan). If so find out what kind of crank it has, rods, pistons(brand name?). This will help a lot if you want a better answer to you question. $600 for a 350 short block isnt too bad but it all depends on what kind of parts are in there? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeeboost Posted March 7, 2004 Author Share Posted March 7, 2004 This would be just the short block -- I have the heads, intake, carb, etc. I just got some more info on the block: Pistons are Speed Pro hypereutectic flat tops (supposedly 10.5:1 w/64cc heads) Eagle Connecting Rods From I remember, the crank is stock He claims there is about $850 worth of machinework done to it. He said that he has the receipts for all of the work, so if this much is true, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna buy it, unless you would have a good reason not to. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 What size combustion chambers do you have? 10.5:1 is pretty high for a street engine(with out reverse cooling) Your heads are alluminum right? If so you may be ok but you'll have to run the "good stuff"(92/93 octane) for sure. Also will that compression match your cam? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeeboost Posted March 7, 2004 Author Share Posted March 7, 2004 My heads are aluminum and also have 64cc's, and as for the cam, he was also running the 280H cam. BUT, I installed rhoads lifters (when I still had the engine running using the bad block) and my friend didn't know that they "tick" at low rpm, so when he was adjusting the timing (I wasn't there, otherwise I would've stopped him) he tightened down the rockers too much and it rounded off lobes on the 280H, cracked and chipped the lifters, bent pushrods, and clogged up the oil pump with metal shavings. Sooo, now I have to buy another cam and I'm looking at which kind to get with higher compression. I've been thinking about a roller setup, but man that's a lot of $$$ I'm already having trouble keeping the engine cool now, if I put in the other block I'll really have hell with it. New waterpump, new griffin radiator, new hoses, new thermostat, and new electric fans. I'm thinking if I get a fan shroud and vent out the engine bay (vents in hood and fenders) then that should help, otherwise I'm going to melt the engine in stop-n-go traffic. Problems, problems, problems. Thanks for the replies Guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToplessZ Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 I think thats a heck of a deal if he is being honest in his description of course you should offer less to start with but I would buy that right now if it was local. I cant find any deals like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted March 7, 2004 Share Posted March 7, 2004 How hot are you running? My engine runs right at 180* while cruising and about 200* while in stop an go traffic? I am using a griffen 26"x19" alluminum radiator, taurus 1 speed fan, and a CSI electric water pump. The fan is controlled by a temperatured controller relay and turns on at about 170*. I cold actually make it run cooler if I wanted but where its set right now is good. What kind of cooling system set up do you have? Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeeboost Posted March 8, 2004 Author Share Posted March 8, 2004 Well, according to my AutoMeter temp gauge, I'm running at about 180-185 on highway, but in stop and go traffic I've seen the gauge read about 250 before I pulled it over to the shoulder and shut it down. However, at idle, when I used on of those laser temperature gauges (I'm not sure what they're called, but they're the ones that you just point, click, and get a temp reading) it said that my engine was idling about 185 when my gauge was reading 225, so it could be that my gauge is just off. The only thing that makes me think the gauge is accurate is that 180 sounds about right if I'm going at a constant speed on the highway, not 140. Also, when I did see it rise to about 250, whitish smoke starting rising from the engine bay and then idle grew very rough (I was thinking that possible the fuel was boiling). Cooling system consits of: New waterpump, new griffin radiator, new hoses, new thermostat, and new electric fans (no fan shroud yet). The fans stay on the whole time, although I could set them to turn on at a certain temperature. Like I mentioned earlier, I'm thinking that venting the engine bay (vents in hood and fenders) and getting a fan shroud should help correct this problem. It's times like this I wish I had an Lt1 As far as the block goes, tomorrow, if they seller can verify his claims through receipts, I'm gonna buy it. The only thing I'm worried about is that the block life may have been dramatically shortened, considering it has approx. 4,000 miles of some HARD running on it. I'm talking burning slicks in 2nd gear (in an auto), racing a VR4 from 0 - top end and leaving it in the dust, and many, many posi marks resulting in plenty of time spent doing high rpms. But oh well, it's just money, right? Hopefully I can qualify for FAFSA this year... Thanks again guys, er, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 I think the biggest problem with your cooling system is the fact that you dont have a fan shroud. You would be surprized at what a difference that will make. At highway speeds its not such a big deal due to the "ram air" effect but at city speeds you dont have that. Before you go speding big money on a bunch of parts you dont need get a fan shroud and see if that helps. Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 Venting the engine bay is always a good idea, but you should not have to do so to stay cool. You most definitely have something else wrong. Make sure you have a spring in your lower radiator hose. At highway speeds the water pump can draw enough suction to collapse the hose cutting off coolant flow. I would also make sure there are no air paths around the radiator. Seal the gaps between the radiator and the body. Also calibrate both your thermostat and temp gage. Get a $5 thermometer at Pep Boys or a kitchen store, heat your thermostat in a pan of water and see what temp it opens. Make sure it fully opens. Then disconnect your temp sensor and use the pan of hot water to check it's accuracy. Finally, what brand of electric fan do you have? A lot of people have had major problems with aftermarket fans, so make sure yours is a good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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