PUSHER Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 Was told to use an orbital sander with 80 grit( I could only find 100 grit) and was told to not sand down to the metal. The paint is a couple layers of red, lite grey, then a bronzish brown. Where should I sand to? Or should I just try to make it all smooth and leave the red on there? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 Others more knowledgable will chime in I'm, sure, but given your directions, I would only get rid of the red coats. The gray may be primer/sealer over the brownish etching primer. I would question why not taking it down to bare metal and re-priming - once the top coat is gone the primer/sealer and etching primer alone will not protect from rust.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 If you used uniform pressure when sanding that patch, and depending on how good you want the body, then I would take that hatch down to metal, do some metal work to get the panel as straight as possible, then skim with filler, sand and primer. if you arent too concerned about the staightness, then just get down to the very bottom layer of red, make sure the layers are well feathered and primer it. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two40MuscleZ Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 Tim's exactly right. Body work is 90% of a good paint job. Knowing how to shoot helps! But, the more you put into the prep, the better the finish will be. If your doing an Earl Schieb job then do the minimum. If you are planning to get the ooos and aaaws, then more effort and time needs to happen. Strip and sand to bare metal always for the best job. Straignten out the metal as much as possible and then add a complete skim coat of body filler over the entire surface. Block sand to relieve the highs and lows, then shoot several coats of catalyzed primer, and block a minimum of three more times. After working the surface straignt, then prep for your first stages of paint. Paint is a whole other dimension in finishes. That will take a whole nother post to explain, and that depends on the type of paint and finish your trying to attain. Correct prep is long and arduous, but well worth the effort when all is said and done. Good luck on your project. VAN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 Correct prep is long and arduous' date=' but well worth the effort when all is said and done. Good luck on your project. VAN[/quote'] Amen to that!! It took 2.5 years to do all the bodywork on my car. 1/2 day to paint. Prep is 96% of a good paint job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted March 9, 2004 Author Share Posted March 9, 2004 Thanks guys, judging by how many dents I have gotten on my other car from cones at autox and drift events I dont plan on making this perfect. My basic goal was to fix the rust holes and to paint it. So basically I should sand down the red with 80 grit and make it smooth and even, and feather the edges where metal is exposed? What type of primer should I use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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