jtmny1999 Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 What to do with the ecu wire harness how do u make it work to start your car am stuck at this step with my conversion. can anyone help me out with this I really wanna start up my 240z turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 go over to Z Car.com, search the tech archives for Ian's post on how to do the interconnect. The wire to wire information is all there and if you follow his instructions, it will run on the first go. FAQ here might be a good place to start, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 I've done this wiring swap, it's quite easy. If you all you need is the wiring codes to point you in the right direction (meaning you understand a little about automotive wiring) then go to Drax's sticky post called: the ultimate beginner's guide. Scroll down a ways and you'll find he wrote in the wire color codes and their purpose. If you need a more detailed explaination send me a email, tell me where you stand on electrical knowhow and I'll try and explain it in detail for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavD3 Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Here is post which TonyD reffered to: You need to get a Haynes manual for '79 to '83 280ZX. This is the one with the red cover. Look on page 252, this is the wiring diagram. You will see 3 plugs labeled "1,2,3" with circles around the numbers. This is at the lower left-hand side of the page. The wires are as follows: Plug 1= BR 12v power source. Positive G 12v power source. Positive Plug 2=Y start signal (+) GL ground for inhibitor switch YW speed sensor (not necessary) Y A/C signal (+) YW coil (-) (must use ignitor) B fuel pump ground if using modulator Plug 3=LR fuel pump relay G ignition .signal (+) for air regulator W not used Y not used BW ignition signal (+) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Yeah that's identical to Drax's post.. (guess I know now where he got it from) I was thinking.. this question gets asked OVER and OVER again.. when I put mine together I didn't have a digital camera, but now that I do I think when it gets nicer outside I'll pull the car out and take a few pics of the wiring connections for all you guys.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 11, 2004 Author Share Posted March 11, 2004 Thanks guys I will try to get it Started this weekend It should be faster than my 280zx turbo donor car Just wanna smoke my friends 350z but anyways if You guys have some pictures it will help me out alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted March 11, 2004 Author Share Posted March 11, 2004 Plug 3 one more question LR fuel Pump Relay is that have to be hooked up if so + or - ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted March 11, 2004 Share Posted March 11, 2004 the LR fuel pump relay wire is the signal from the ECU to trigger the relay (it is a + signal) therefore the relay has to have a ground on the appropriate terminal. That takes care of the "trigger or low current" part of the relay.. The "high current" part of the relay needs + input from the battery (with a fuse) the output terminal to to the + of the fuel pump, ground your fuel pump (better yet run a wire right to the - of the battery) and you're set! Just make sure you use some good wire for your fuel pump! Also both of those wires on plug 1 are supposed to have fusible links (I just used inline fuses) In Plug 2 you'll notice that there are two YW wires... you are only concerned with the one between the empty terminal and the Y wire I'll also try to give you a more detailed rundown of these wires... Plug2 Y start signal (start terminal of ignition switch) GL (not nessasary) YW speed sensor (not nessasary) Y A/C (not nessasary) YW coil- (make sure it's the ignitor and not the coil itself) B (not nessesary unless you really wanna use the modulator) Plug3 LG (explained above) G +for air regulator (just run that to ignition+) W not used Y not used BW ignition + You'll also have to run a wire from ignition to the + of the coil ignitor and if you still have the wiring that ran to the stock coil attatch the old -coil wire to the -of the new coil (not the ignitor) If I remember right the wire is blue (this SHOULD power up your tach, it worked on my 280z but I think the early 240 tachs have a more screwy setup) Hope this helps and good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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