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Seting up the engine wire harness for a 240zturbo conversion


jtmny1999

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go over to Z Car.com, search the tech archives for Ian's post on how to do the interconnect. The wire to wire information is all there and if you follow his instructions, it will run on the first go.

 

FAQ here might be a good place to start, too.

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I've done this wiring swap, it's quite easy. If you all you need is the wiring codes to point you in the right direction (meaning you understand a little about automotive wiring) then go to Drax's sticky post called: the ultimate beginner's guide. Scroll down a ways and you'll find he wrote in the wire color codes and their purpose. If you need a more detailed explaination send me a email, tell me where you stand on electrical knowhow and I'll try and explain it in detail for you.

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Here is post which TonyD reffered to:

You need to get a Haynes manual for '79 to '83 280ZX. This is the one with the red cover. Look on page 252, this is the wiring diagram. You will see 3 plugs labeled "1,2,3" with circles around the numbers. This is at the lower left-hand side of the page.

 

The wires are as follows:

 

Plug 1= BR 12v power source. Positive

 

G 12v power source. Positive

 

Plug 2=Y start signal (+)

GL ground for inhibitor switch

YW speed sensor (not necessary)

Y A/C signal (+)

YW coil (-) (must use ignitor)

B fuel pump ground if using modulator

 

Plug 3=LR fuel pump relay

G ignition .signal (+) for air regulator

W not used

Y not used

BW ignition signal (+)

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Yeah that's identical to Drax's post.. (guess I know now where he got it from) :D

 

I was thinking.. this question gets asked OVER and OVER again.. when I put mine together I didn't have a digital camera, but now that I do I think when it gets nicer outside I'll pull the car out and take a few pics of the wiring connections for all you guys..

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the LR fuel pump relay wire is the signal from the ECU to trigger the relay (it is a + signal) therefore the relay has to have a ground on the appropriate terminal. That takes care of the "trigger or low current" part of the relay..

 

The "high current" part of the relay needs + input from the battery (with a fuse) the output terminal to to the + of the fuel pump, ground your fuel pump (better yet run a wire right to the - of the battery) and you're set! Just make sure you use some good wire for your fuel pump! :wink:

 

 

 

Also both of those wires on plug 1 are supposed to have fusible links

(I just used inline fuses)

 

In Plug 2 you'll notice that there are two YW wires... you are only concerned with the one between the empty terminal and the Y wire

 

I'll also try to give you a more detailed rundown of these wires...

 

Plug2

Y start signal (start terminal of ignition switch)

GL (not nessasary)

YW speed sensor (not nessasary)

Y A/C (not nessasary)

YW coil- (make sure it's the ignitor and not the coil itself)

B (not nessesary unless you really wanna use the modulator)

 

Plug3

LG (explained above)

G +for air regulator (just run that to ignition+)

W not used

Y not used

BW ignition +

 

You'll also have to run a wire from ignition to the + of the coil ignitor

and if you still have the wiring that ran to the stock coil attatch the old -coil wire to the -of the new coil (not the ignitor) If I remember right the wire is blue (this SHOULD power up your tach, it worked on my 280z but I think the early 240 tachs have a more screwy setup)

 

 

Hope this helps and good luck! :)

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