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0.080 head mod, use a z22 slack guide instead of shims.


Guest mescalinedreamz

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Guest mescalinedreamz

well what do you think, Some autoracer told me about this and said that he has done it to alot of engines. As long as the timing chain is tight then no worries. Z22 slack side guide will tighten the chain right up and there will be no need for shims.Very costly, and the tensioner is only like 6 bucks

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Don't you still have the cam moving over a couple of degrees?

You are shortening the distance to the cam sproket from the crank sproket, so you need to shim the camshaft up to put it back where it was and to move the timing back to the proper degrees.

 

All you are doing with that mod is taking up the slack on the side of the chain that doesn't affect timing. (unless I am misunderstanding your mod)

 

Another option I can think of is to use an adjustable timing gear and the tensioner you speak of, which would allow you to move the cam timing back to near stock position...

 

Or you could just move the cam sprocket to the 2 or 3 timing positions, but you would be guessing how much you need to move it over.

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Guest mescalinedreamz

2187cc Z22, Z22E 4 cyl 1981-83

200SX, 720 Truck SOHC

Timing Chain C33102 102 links

Tensioner T60007

Guide Rail left R70043 straight - left

Guide Rail right R70044 curved - right

Cam Sprocket G50030 40 teeth

Crank Sprocket G50066 20 teeth

Timing Set TS10900 all parts listed above

 

Here is an email from the guy who told me about it all: It was the guide he was telling me to use.

 

I first heard of using different slack side guide rails from Rebello - they often modify stock slack side guide rails. I work on cars for a living and one day I had a Z24 engine apart for a new timing chain.. I kept the slack side guide to check on a 510 engine I race. It worked. I dont know why other folks have not "discovered" this. I keep the same valves the cylinder head cam with. Is there a reason to change valves? If you put the cam shims on then you might be able to mix longer valves into a p90 head to get lash correct. but if you keep stock cam and the valve job is correct then you should be able to all the stock parts that came with the head

 

I have done this many many times now. I currently have - sitting about 20 feet away -- and engine with a P90 head cut .080 inches, no cam tower shims, and that timing new timing chain is tight and the oil tensioner is all they in the bore like it is supposed to be, the cam sprocket is in the number 2 hole and the "v" of the cam is in line with the " - " mark on the camshaft thrust plate.

 

use a slack side chain guide from a Z22 nissan truck engine. if you dont have enough slack taken up with that then use a z24 slack side guide.

 

no shims needed when you cut .080 thou and use a cam.. check valve clearances.. hell better check them any ways.

If you cut .080 from a head, and have a new timing chain -- you will not get the stock z car slack side guide rail moved far enough to get the chain tight. I got lucky that when I cut .080 from my head that the timing chain essentiall moves one tooth on the cam gear from stock.. you cannot use the colored links on the chain to time the cam. you must use the piston at top dead center and the marks on the cam and thrust plate.

 

You can use cam shims, but you dont have to. more than one way to skin the cat.

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Tensioner and slack side chain guide are two different things. If .080" head shave correlates with one link of L6 timing chain, then why not take a link out and use a Mercedes Benz connecting link to put it back together?

DAW

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One link is not .080 is it?

 

My buddy ran one unshimmed with a head cut .110, and it ran strong, so you can do anything..... Just not sure how smart it is.

 

of course, I am going to use a kameari idler kit, so the heck with all that mess. HAHA

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