$2K to spend, what to buy??? (long)

[JMortensen]

I've got a little money to spend, and I need help with what to spend it on.

 

I've been mostly concerned with the rear end of the car, but there are a few little other things to do as well . Also, in this budget will have to be a welder. Thinking I'll try to find something used.

 

Here's my complete list of things to do to my Z:

 

1. BRAKES. This HAS to get done this time around, #1 important thing to get done

2. Flares

3. rims and tires (was planning on steel circle track wheels, but correct width and offset for my 250/45/15 slicks)

4. diff mount (a la Jeromio)

5. JBJ link (or as Terry calls it, poor man's rear toe adjuster)

6. 4:11 diff

7. rear wheel bearings

8. CV conversion

9. fuel cell or fix tank. I've had a small leak from my tank that I've tried to fix about 8 times. Still can't get it fixed. Might be the seam in the tank leaking?

10. trans rebuild

11. Lexan windows

12. strip interior

13. would like to go up in spring rate with better struts (currently 200/250 w/Illuminas)

14. Make tie rods for front end and move pivots for control arms higher.

15. Frame rails

16. Fix rust. The car was painted about 6 years ago, and it has rust bubbling up. Not horrible, but it is there.

17. cut the ends off my sway bars and mod for adjustability and rod end links.

18. New TC rod mounts, possibly farther back, definitely higher up.

19. Relocate battery

 

Stuff I already have:

 

Complete 240 suspension out of a parts car

Rebuild kit for the tranny w/main shaft nut

280ZXT nuts for stub axles

 

My thoughts and confusion:

 

1st, the damn brakes HAVE to get done. I'd really like to go 5 lug for more wheel choices, but then I keep thinking that I don't need to since I have been totally happy running circle track wheels, and they're inexpensive. I'm thinking JSK fronts, Maxima front rotors in back with supra/cressida calipers in back, maybe just go to a Outlaw or Wilwood in back, depends on $$$ Would like aluminum 5 lug fronts, but I don't think that's in the budget, and I've got other things that have to get done.

 

2nd, the rust is really bugging me. There is a body shop a few miles away that has a Z tub epoxy primered waiting to go. I might be able to go down there and buy a whole new tub, which would make a lot of the other stuff easier, and I wouldn't have to fix any rust. I have about 5 minutes body experience helping a friend sand her Z about 10 years ago, so I'd be starting from scratch on that one.

 

3rd, I'm thinking maybe I should just find a rolling chassis that is already set up for racing (heard of a couple going CHEAP lately). Might save some money on brakes and suspension, and would probably save a hell of a lot of time with fixing rust and beefing up the frame. Might be able to find one already flared.

 

4th, once I start, I'll be able to sell a lot of my interior stuff that I take out and perhaps recoup some $$$, and maybe have a little more to throw at the car.

 

My main priorities are brakes and fixing the gas tank or installing a cell. A lot of the stuff on the list I can do with a welder and a minimum amount of $$$ spent on materials. I used to just go to a friend's house to have something welded up, but now that I'm in WA and I have so much to do I feel like I need my own.

 

I know there's no way to get all of this done on this budget. It would take 3 times the budget to get it ALL done, minimum.

 

THIS CAR WILL BE 99% AUTOX/TRACK MACHINE 1% STREET. LOOKS ARE NOT IMPORTANT TO ME. IF IT GOES FAST I'M HAPPY.

 

Anyone have any opinions, comments, suggestions, tips, tricks or other advice for me before I jump into this mess?

 

Jon

[Pop N Wood]

Lottery tickets. There are at least 3 things on your list that could easily consume the whole 2K, so lottery tickets are your only hope.

 

There was an ITS equiped rolling chassis from Vancouver on ebay just this week. Someone posted the link.

 

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=32479

 

Needed font brakes and an engine, but it had a cage, flares and totally gutted interior. From the pictures I think the 1% street use would really cost since this car had a totally gutter interior and no headlights.

 

 

If you want 4 wheel disks than realistically your brakes will cost $800 at a minimum. There are worse things than rear drums, so I would be tempted to just upgrade the fronts. Cheapest option is 4x4 front calipers with the vented rotors. But those JSK's or Ross's Outlaw set up are very tempting.

 

Beyond that my first priority would be getting it road worthy. Thus the mundane stuff like gas tank, brakes and rust repair would be at the top of my list. Problem with the rust repair is that job is always turns out to be more work than people think.

 

CV conversion is popular, but IMO more of a luxury than a necessity.

 

And from what I have seen on this site, stock Z car parts don't sell for much. So I wouldn't plan on much more than beer money.

[JMortensen]

Thanks Pop. I should have said that I already had Toy front calipers on solid rotors and the JWT rear disc setup, and an adjustable prop valve and 280ZX master.

 

Every time I go to the track I end up burning the brakes right off the car. I won't even consider the Toy setup anymore, just too much weight and I'd like to get something that's capable of handling more heat. Plus a racer I know just had a more drastic problem with them. He snapped the bolts that hold the rotor and spacer on... He was using metric grade 8.8 hardware though (SAE grade 5).

 

Also, I wouldn't exactly be selling stock interior parts. Some are, but I also have some custom door panels, a good carpet kit, thinking might just go huge and sell my dash with Autometer gauges and Recaro seats too.

 

Already sold my Autopower roll bar to Aux.

 

Jon

[JMortensen]

I think I've narrowed the list and come up with the following stuff:

 

280Z stub axles, new wheel bgs

modern-motorsport.com CV conversion

poly bushings for rear control arms

JSK front brakes

try another stock gas tank (maybe weld a sump into it)

 

buy the welder and work on the other suspension stuff:

adjustable rear toe setup

diff mount

move TC pivot

raise front control arm pivot

new tie rods

adjustable sway bars

 

I think I can get this all into $2k. I'm going to stick with the

crappy JWT rear brakes for now.

EDIT--realized rear brakes are JCR, not JWT.

 

That sound a little more reasonable? Please understand that I

already knew that the original full list wasn't going to happen.

I'm just trying to figure out what I CAN do.

 

Jon

[Drax240z]

Too bad Jon, I just sold a pair of AP racing calipers with 1.125" thick rotors, and 6 sets of pads on Ebay for $345. It would have been pretty easy to adapt to the Z too!

 

For a dedicated track car I'd look beyond poly bushings in the rear, especially at the outboard end. Try getting some Delrin or something more solid than urethane... it will probably be something you'd need made for you but I think it would be worthwhile.

 

Buying a welder would be my suggestion. (probably ~$600) It will get you a lot more for your money than any other mod.

 

I know they are expensive, but check out Ross's 13"/PBR brake setup. It's just awesome and is my first choice for front brakes!

[JMortensen]

I want to stick with 15's, so the 13" rotor is not an option, but they certainly would do the job!!! I can't imagine a Z that would fade those brakes. I agree that the welder opens the door to MANY relatively cheap mods. Not sure that I would bother having Delrin bushings made, but if someone had them available I might look at buying some...

 

Thanks for the feedback Drax.

 

Jon

[JMortensen]

Took step one today: Bought a Millermatic 135 off ebay with Hobart auto darkening helmet, and added in a pair of gloves. Total: $607. Pretty good deal, I think. I was going to try and find used, but I couldn't pass this up!

 

Jon