CableSrv Posted April 6, 2004 Share Posted April 6, 2004 Ok I'm new to fiberglass and the whole mold stuff and I've been reading alot on fiberglast.com about the materials and how-to's and would like to tackle a center console and dash replacement with fiberglass. Here is my question for those who have done fiberglass work before. Obviously I'd be using epoxy resin with a 2 hour hardner since these parts are a bit larger and would require more brush and lay time. My problem is, i'm not sure HOW much resin is enough? I'd hate to buy the 500 gallon drum when I doubt i'll really need that much. I plan to reprep the original dash and center console to uber smooth surface then make a plug of it and apply mold release agent then create a blown fiberglass mold, at this point I could eventually make multible dashes as needed if other asked. Ideas and comments and books, videos, websites ? are appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dot Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 I think epoxy resin would be al little over kill and expensive for a dash. Just your basic styrene based polyester resin will do. You know… the green stuff. I used a gallon to do my hood and had lots left over. You could probably get by with a couple of quarts. Keep in mind that this product does have a shelf life of about a year if kept at 70 F. Boat shops might be rare in parts of Texas, so you could try a Vette shop and find out where he gets his supplies from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc's240z Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 I apreciate your interest in making dashes but you will find several challenges in making this part; the shape is very difficult to make in a one piece mold. I will tell you that making a dash very difficult even for an experienced fiberglass professional, from personal experience. We already manufacture a fiberglass dash...If you want one be sure to contact PDK Fabrication: http://www.pdkfabrication.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 7, 2004 Author Share Posted April 7, 2004 I thought you guys stopped that project because there wasn't enough ppl wanting to do a run ? If you are doing them then hell yea i'll buy a dash from you EVENTUALLY!! Right now i'm just doing research on what it requires and so forth. Then I plan to do some simple jobs to get a feel for fiberglass! Last time I used fiberglass it ended up in a mess because I tried to use 10 minute hardner on a decent size application and trust me NOT ENOUGH WORK TIME!!! the resin was hardening on my gloves before I could really adjust the fiberglass!!! plus fiberglass was being ripped up as I was adjusting it and causing my hand to be covered in fiberglass!!! so definitly 2 hour work time hardner is needed with me I did a search and someone suggested "competition car composites" book to read so I"ll end up ordering that and reading it a good ammount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Your Car is Slow Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 They still 400 + shipping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc's240z Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 No worries the guys at PDK have been working on the mold so that we can get multiple copies. They were hoping to have them done for MSA but it doesn't look like they will make it. They have been busy doing the fabrication on my car seen below. You can contact them for specific pricing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 I want a dash. When are they goig to be ready. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc's240z Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 In the next few weeks. put your name on the waiting list at PDK http://www.pdkfabrication.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 7, 2004 Author Share Posted April 7, 2004 Ok since you recommended polyester resin and hardner I decided to look at fiberglast.com and they don't exactly tell me the work time like they do with the epoxy system. How long is the cure time/work time while using polyester resin ? if it's 20 mins then that is STILL to soon seeing as I'm not good at working in the fiberglass in all the curvs. Unless it has a different setup time then maybe I can use it. any diy websites ? howto's or books you guys recommend on reading before even starting ? I've read most of fiberglast.com and it's really informative but to a point. It really doesn't give a step by step guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 Names on the list, looking foward to getting the part. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 Ok since you recommended polyester resin and hardner I decided to look at fiberglast.com and they don't exactly tell me the work time like they do with the epoxy system. How long is the cure time/work time while using polyester resin ? if it's 20 mins then that is STILL to soon seeing as I'm not good at working in the fiberglass in all the curvs. Unless it has a different setup time then maybe I can use it. any diy websites ? howto's or books you guys recommend on reading before even starting ? I've read most of fiberglast.com and it's really informative but to a point. It really doesn't give a step by step guide. There really is no good online guide, get the book, Comepetition Car Composites by Simon McBeath. Maybe this site will help, http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=32 As for the poly resin, your work time depends on how much hardner you use with the resin. The Home Depot stuff I use is 14 drops per ounce. I usually put in a little less depending on how long I intend to work as well as the temperature. Mix only what you need. Oh, try Aircraftspruce.com as well for materials. I could go on and on but I'd rather tell you to read the book Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 Fiberglass resin/catalyst reaction times vary with temperature. I can use the same ratio in the summer with a 10 minute hardening time, but using the same ratio during the winter time nets a 1 hour plus sometimes. Experience is a big help here, and once you do it enough times you get a feel for the correct amount of catalyst to mix into the resin. To make matters worse, the manufacturers produce a summer and winter "blend" that helps compensate for the temperature differences (actually, the manufacturer adds a very small amount of catalyst from the factory, which is why there is a limited shelf life for the resin in the first place). Good quality resin will be thinner than the stuff bought at Home Depot, and will thus require less resin because the "soak through" into the fiberglass cloth or mat is so much better than the thicker, more viscous resin. Unfortunately, I've had to use the thicker Home Depot stuff for most of the fiberglass work I've done the past 2 years, but it still will do the job well enough. You can modify your "kick" time by either pre-heating or pre-cooling the resin (cooling it also thickens it, and warming it thins it out). Getting a good 30 minute work time is not hard to do, just use a little less catalyst, or cooler temperatures. Also, thick and bulky parts hold the "reaction" heat better than thinner parts, and this internal heat then causes the part to harden faster (kind of a snowballing effect), so this should to be taken into consideration as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CableSrv Posted April 7, 2004 Author Share Posted April 7, 2004 ok so the poly resin is based on how much hardner I use kewl that I can deal with, and yes I most definitly plan to get that book. btw thanks guys you've been very informative Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dot Posted April 7, 2004 Share Posted April 7, 2004 There is also the idea that the part does not have to made all at once. When I made my hood I started with the hump first then worked my way to one side then the other. The one side was well set before I finished the second side. In all I made about six or seven half quart batches of resin. It is like blueovalz said, it all has to do with tempurature. I was told it was best to work at about 50F and put a heater on the part when it was complete. It worked fine for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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