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Toyota 7MGE


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Anyone tried this yet? I'm looking at this as an option when my L28 craps out. I know a few guys have done the 7MGTE Turbo swap, but I'd like to keep the car NA since I'm not looking for 700+ RWHP. I think the 7MGE out of the Supra or Cressida would make a good replacement for the L28 for use as a daily driver. It already has 200 horsepower stock, parts are readily available, they're a dime a dozen out of the junkyards also. With some port work on the heads and a good header, 230 HP should be pretty attainable. This seems like a very cost effective option to building up a 3.1 L series stroker motor, which was another idea I was tossing around. Any experts on toyota stuff care to chime in?

 

Mike

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Guest daZda rally

The 7M series engine has a bad reputation for head gasket issues. It is also quite big and heavy for a 3 litre.

Peter.

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Go for it! The 7MG is a great engine, alot of people tend to be overly critical of them but I think they have great potential. In NA form it would be a great daily driver, in turbo form and modified it can be downright scarry.

 

Yes HG are a problem so my recommendation is get a new HKS one and the ARP stud kit - for insurance. For $250 or so you have all the insurance you can get.

 

For serious 7MG power, check out:

 

http://www.7mgpower.com

 

Regards - Yasin

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Guest porschephile

I think it would make a great swap. Yes, it is a heavy motor, but even with the added weight, you'd still end up being around 1000lbs lighter than the mk3's they came in! They have decent power for an n/a motor too. As others have mentioned, the headgasket is a problem. My friend blew his and it's been a big PITA. Though, you should just factor into your budget, whether buying a mk3/7m/7mgte, for a metal headgasket and arp head studs. Other than that, they are really reliable engines that can last a long time. It would make for a fun and interesting daily driver I think.

 

I had considered something like this awhile back. I was thinking of using an rb25de on my Z to make a nice daily driver that had a little more go to it. Of course, I realized I personally need a lot more power than that considering they only have 190hp. Another alternative could be a DOHC conversion on an Rb30e. Kind of a lot of money to invest in something that wouldn't make 300+hp, but it would make more power than a 7m.

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I was thinking of this too.. IMP, the 7M is probly a better designed engine than the ol' Nissan L28. Dual cams (right?), more power, non -interfearance head, and they love to rev. There is a guy where I live that has had lots over the years, and his only complaint is that the cars rot so bad (hmm... kinda like Zs..) but he swears by the engine/tranny. You should see this guy drive man... stays in first gear till 5000, STOMPS it well into the red, then slams into second, ect. He is abusive and uncaring and he has yet to blow one up! He told me he snapped a timing belt one day, so he pushed the car home, put on a USED belt he had lying around, lined up the dots and away she went! He also said the HG can be a prob, but he doesnt even bother changing it; just tighntens the head bolts up about 10-15 pounds more than whats called for by Toyota. :lol: Another friend of mine bought a Supra off this guy once (yah, bad idea) and the thing still went like hell with a mostly burned out clutch (couldnt hit WOT without slipping), leaking slave cyl, and more rot than you can imagine. Only thing I dont like about them is the FI. It used a similar system to the Z (AFM.. ahhh!!!) and they are getting old now as well...

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  • 4 weeks later...

The 7M uses a heated wire mass air flow sensor like the 300ZX does, not the door type that the 280Z/X's do. I believe the non turbo uses a single coil while the turbo has 3 coil packs. The older MKII supras used the door type, maybe confused the two? MKIII's are from `86-`92

 

Comparing the 7M to the 2JZ the 2JZ is a better high reving engine, I think you can pull another 1K RPM out of them in stock form. The 2JZ has better head flow design, but price difference is quite a lot.

 

My 7M-GTE engine swap is about complete after 2 years, just need to go and get a drive line made up, and some other odds and ends.. I had to put off the completion for some time due to finances, but I've just sold a car and am back at it.

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Guest porschephile

All 7m's use the "barn door" type MAF sensors. N/A 7m's use a distributor type ignition while the turbos use coil packs (6).

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I looked up a NA MKIII flow meter and yes it is the barn door type, but the turbo one definately is not. Here is a picture of my engine compartment:

 

http://zhome.com/~aktar/ebay/supra/enginefront.jpg

 

Here is the larger diameter lexus one that many people swap into their MKIII turbos to trick the car into not giving as much fuel pulse time so they can stick larger injectors in and run more boost:

 

http://www.supracarparts.com/parts%20pics/DSCN3344c.jpg

 

 

Here are details on the swap and a side by side photo of each (larger lexus, same interal but smaller MKIII Supra T afm):

 

 

http://home.hiwaay.net/~rcarlile/lexus/lexus1.htm

 

 

Here is picture auction of non turbo afm:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7908398857&category=33553&sspagename=WDVW

 

obviously barn door, obviously different than the turbo one.

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Guest porschephile

Cool, thanks for clearing that up. I thought the mk3 turbo maf looked different than the n/a.

 

On another note, if anyone plans on using a 7mgte, or happens to have a mk3 turbo, I highly suggest not going with a 62-1 upgraded ct26! I researched this upgrade and almost everyone with it that runs 1+bar blows the turbo. That 62-1 turbine is too large for the turbine shaft, since it was never designed to support that large/heavy of a wheel. The reason I mention it is I know a guy that just did one, and he's planning on running 15-20psi. From everything I've heard, I'm expecting him to blow his turbo fairly quickly. Don't be cheap! Screw the ct26 and get a Greddy td06-20g. That's what I'd buy if I ever bought a mk3 turbo. ~$1500-1700 and it fits the stock manifold, exhaust, etc (with a manifold adapter that's included), spools fairly quickly, and is good for well over 400hp. One guy in Canada w/ the 20g dyno'd at 20psi = 402rwhp and 520rwtq!

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There are alot of people just under 500 rwhp with Garret turbos running less than 20 psi. I don't know anything about Mitsubishi turbos but that's on the low side for that kind of PSI. I just finished welding a T4 flange to mine to run a T58. I have the CT26/60-1, wasn't much better than stock, I think the small turbine kills it.

 

The turbos use a Karman Vortex AFM, looks similar to a hot wire type but measure frequency.

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