80LS1T Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 I have a 93' LT1 here are the specs... Stage 2 Port and Polish of heads Match Intake runners to heads Holley 58mm Throttle Body 42lbs Injectors (Equals 34.5lbs injectors with only 37psi instead of 45psi) 11:1 Compression Ratio Bored .030 over LT4 Hotcam (218/228, 525/525) (GM Part # 24502586) MSD Ignition Coil 1.6 Ratio Roller Rockers Thanks, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest LT-1 350Z Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 i,m doing that set up on saturday on my car but i going to stick with the 95 & up injectors i believe is like 24 lbs.now i have msd 6al ,blasters gm coil,fastchip's computers chip,1 3/4 long tubes,1.6 roller rockers,150 shot of nos,on saturday i putting hot cam & port and polish head with 2.00 & 1.56 inch valves,52mm tb on wensday dino time on thursday we are renting moroso motorsport park with fews friends to have time to make as many passes as possible.i will post hp numbers and times. good luck with your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 Hotcam (aka WARMCAM) with heads make about 370 RWHP, or about 420 HP crank from what I've seen. You can easily find a good baseline tune on the net, just dont go WOT without verifying AFR, and tuning said AFR yourself on the dyno! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z ya Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 I would say with a proper tune around 400 to 410 at the crank. Sounds like a nice motor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 6, 2002 Author Share Posted December 6, 2002 Hey Mudge, what cam would you recommed that is a little bit "hotter"/"bigger"? I want about 450-475HP and the crank. But still be able to idle good. Thanks, Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 I considered a 225/234 Isky cam, the next step up from Isky is a 234/246 (110 LSA, you could request otherwise) which will idle OK in my experience, I daily drove one with stock 3.42 rear gears but I was about at the limit for acceptability without going to another gear. Programming was not too tough, I used someone elses program as a baseline and didn't make many changes to the timing map, mostly AF tuning. Timing down low was most of where I concentrated, and was a bit limited by Crapifornian gas, but it was overall ok. You will want to run open loop idle with a cam in this area, the overlap will cause BLMs to go a bit haywire in closed loop, it idled fine at 800 RPM but 900-1000 RPM was nicer as far as take off without putting your foot down noticeably. I also ran a MAF car instead of speed density, supposedly MAF is easier to tune for general driveability but mostly due to weather changes(?). There is also a CC306 that is popular, but is considered by some an outdated grind, as far as some others being slightly better through the powerband, its a 230/244, by default on a 112 LSA. For not making too much a step further I'd probably go with the 225/234, but the expense may not honestly be worth it, the HOTCAM kit at $459 can't be beaten for the value. When you want just a liiiiiittle bit more than that, you start paying alot more unfortunately, if you sell the kit and keep only the rockers you will do ok, but I am not sure how those rockers are to be trusted at 6500+ RPMs, since I was anal about my valvetrain setup I went with non SA rockers, guideplates, chrome molly pushrods and the like, a bit more cost and definately more PITA since the setup will not fit natively under the rocker covers. If this is going into a Z car and you are on a timeline and budget, I might just stick with the HOTCAM kit for now, is another 30-50 HP worth the extra hundreds for a different setup? Oh, I hate to add more $ to your project cost so you may or may want to convert, but I'd suggest going to a 1995 Optispark/timing cover setup, if the Opti is in good shape and you'll seal up the front end well enough you could leave it alone I suppose. Opti, vacuum harness, Opti wiring harness (short cabling), timing cover, poke a hole in the intake ducting or $50ish for a new 95/1LE TB duct. Minus headers/cold air/Tunercat I believe I spent $2260 total, it adds up doesn't it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GillSS1 Posted December 6, 2002 Share Posted December 6, 2002 Check the Imapala SS Fourm Link . I have found some very valuable information for my Impala's LT1. Search the engine performance forum and I bet that you will find answers to most of your questions. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
80LS1T Posted December 7, 2002 Author Share Posted December 7, 2002 Yeah about the cam that's kinda what I thought, I thought it might be more of a PITA that its worth right now. The guy that is port and polishing my heads is also putting in the new valves and springs. So I am just going to be buying the HOTCAM and not the whole kit. About the headers, intake, and optispark. I have headers, I am going to run some kinda of custom cold air intake, and I have the new opti spark and timing cover so that is all covered. I guess I should have mentioned that before. Thanks for all the help guys! Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted December 7, 2002 Share Posted December 7, 2002 I ran shorty headers, if you are going to be able to run long tubes, that might help Horsepower is fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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