*Jumping for joy* SCORE!!!! My free FMIC is HERE!!! w0000t!

[Guest bastaad525]

For anyone that doesn't remember, about a month ago I mentioned that I had sorta 'stumbled upon' this nice I/C just sitting in a pile of junk parts at my job (I work at a tow truck co./impound lot). I had asked if I could take it but alas, the pile of 'junk' was actually a pile of police evidence... so I was told I would need to wait until the parts 'cleared' i.e.: PD let us know they didn't need them. I was also told that I could 'have' the thing for $50...

 

 

Well... the parts cleared this weekend, and I musta done something nice because my supervisor welcomed me to take the thing for FREE!!!

 

Well, here it is:

 

 

The unit is Trust brand. It measures 29" L x 7.5" H x 3" D. It's in good shape, a dent here or there, and more bent fins than I'd like, but hey I can't complain for FREE!! It's got mounting brackets in the perfect place for bolting it right onto the top of the radiator support, though I'm not sure what to do about the bottom... bracing or what... I'll probably have something welded on to reach down to the bottom of the rad support.

 

The ends are placed perfectly in line with the upper holes on either side of the radiator... actually it's just a TAD too long, I'll either new to pipes with a VERY sharp 45* bend in them, or I may need to enlarge the holes in the rad support slightly. Otherwise, it's a perfect fit, and what I like most of all is that if I choose to leave the stock 'grill' in place, the thing is very hard to see.

 

i'm SOOOO jazzed as now I've eliminated what could have possibly been the very large headache of trying to 'adapt' the Buick Grand National I/C I've had into the 240. The inlet and outlet on that thing is just really odd and woulda been a pain to get it installed and halfway decent looking... hence why I haven't installed in the very long time I've had it.

 

now with this I/C I'm much more inspired to get the thing in there ASAP... just order up one of those ebay 'one kit fits all' I/C pipe kits and have everything or most everything I need to get this puppy in... then just a little welding and transfer my BOV over and I'm SET!!!

 

 

This has got to be the coolest free thing I've gotten in a very long time if not ever... I'm dying to know what one of these retails for.

[Guest bastaad525]

Real quick, what is the size of the T/B opening (in inches)? When measuring for this type of thing, do I measure the outer diameter or the inner diameter? O/D on the I/C inlet/outlets are about 2.5" if I don't count the little 'lip' around the edge. I/D is 2.25 exactly...

 

Just wondering what size pipe I should buy... there are 2.25" and 2.5" universal kits on ebay right now but the price difference is significant.. about $50 for the extra 1/4 inch!!!

 

I do notice that this guy also sells couplers and reducers, he specifically says for those that he measures the inside diameter... so does that mean I should use I/D for deciding which pipe to order?

[Guest 2slo4u]

You lucky bastaad, you!

 

81zxturbo

95slobaru impreza

[DatsunBoy77]

On the stock turbo 2.25 is plenty. I would imagine 2.5 might cause a pressure drop on the stocker. Stock turbo outlet is only like 2" if i recall.

[Guest bastaad525]

W00000000t and Tim240z is gonna help me with the install

 

 

more power here I come

 

now just cross your fingers for me that I can get everything I need together in a timely manner and actually stick to some kind of plan/schedule for once. I give myself to the end of next month... gotta get one of these pipe kits off of Ebay, drop the I/C off at a radiator shop to have it cleaned (seems lots of bugs decided to make it their home while it was sitting on our lot), and I figure I better save up some money before installing it, enough to get an adjustable FPR (if it's running lean now, it's only going to get worse with the colder, denser oxygen charge... hopefully I can get enough extra fuel on top out of the stock injectors with this new MSD pump), and then to take it to the dyno and tune it. And of course I have to account for time spent convincing my wife why I need to be spending all this money on installing what was supposed to be a 'free' part

[Guest bastaad525]

Can someone please verify the stock turbo throttle body's diameter for me? still need to figure out which pipe size I should get... thinking I need 2.5" as the I/C inlet's OD's are 2.5, but then I dont think the stock TB is 2.5", I'll need a reducer I assume?

[Jersey]

I.D of the stock turbo TB is just about 51mm or 2" and the O.D (below flange) is 57mm or 2.24" (use 2.25" pipe) You could use 2.5" pipe and get a silicone reducer at the TB or, what i did was weld a reducer from 2.5" to 2.25" between the IC outlet and TB inlet and then just use a piece of straight 2.25" silicone hose. Also remember, the T3 outlet (O.D.) mates up pretty well with a 2" pipe so you'll need to do some figuring on that end as well. Good luck and congrats.

[Guest bastaad525]

damn you nissan

 

 

well that throws a wrench in the works... so basically I've got three different sizes I have to deal with... 2" from the turbo, 2.25" for the TB, and 2.5" for the I/C....

 

 

The one guy I have been dealing with from ebay, that seems to be the only guy left selling the universal pipe kits, carries silicone reducers, but, following my now infamous luck, is backordered on the two that I guess I need... 2" to 2.5" and 2.25" to 2.5".

 

Damn things are pricey too... good thing I can just use the 2.25 pipe that will save me $50.

 

Anyone know good places to get reducers from?

 

I'm gonna take a guess that I couldn't just 'squeez' them together? Like, connnect 2.25" pipe to the 2" J-pipe (just gonna cut that and use it for the pipe coming off the turbo) and sqeez a 2" I/D silicone coupler over the two? Is .25" more too much to ask the 2" coupler to stretch?

 

come on guys what are my options here besides buying four $20 reducers?? At this rate the cost of piping and couplers is gonna cost more than the full value of the I/C if I HAD bought it...

[Guest bastaad525]

pretty much every other person selling reducers on ebay has only one size, 2.5" to 3"

[Jersey]

525 - get a 2" 90deg pipe for coming out of the T3, then goto 2.25" pipe and connect them by using a 2" silicone adapter (they can stretch the 1/4") Then right at the end of the 2.25" pipe meets the IC, you could either get a 2.25 to 2.5" metal reducer (really enlarger) welded on and use a 2.5" silicone adapter or, just use a 2.25" silicone adapter and stretch it over the 2.5" IC neck.

 

Coming out of the IC, use a 2.5" to 2.25" metal reducer welded to a piece of 2.25" pipe and run it right to the TB. If the ID of the IC outlet is 2.5", i would get the 2.5" pipe stretched open a little so the air doesn't hit any kind of lip.

 

Which way are you running the pipes - T3 straight run to the IC then, IC out across the back of the rad to the TB or, vise-versa?

[Guest bastaad525]

good to know the couplers will stretch a bit, will save me some money whichever way I cut it. I was thinking keeping the stock j-pipe, just cutting off the little U-bend at the end, but leaving that as my turbo outlet pipe, then attach another pipe from there, out thru the rad support, thru either a 90* bent pipe or 90* rubber elbow, to the I/c, thru two more 90* bends, behind the radiator and back over to the TB... seen a lot of guys setup like this, and while I'm worried about clearance, runnign the stock fan shroud and dizzy, I've seen guys make it work.

[cygnusx1]

Great news about the free IC Bast!

 

Here is a good photo of my I/C install in process. Good luck and hit ebay hard.

 

http://hvmp.com/dc/76Z-IC-2.jpg

[Guest bastaad525]

cygnus - yep yours is the one I've basically been modeling mine after in my head, considering you have the same pipe kit I"m looking at buying. It was some post of yours a while back that clued me in to the existence of these kits. Hope you dont mind that I'm basically trying my hardest to copy you! I'm assuming you went with the 2.25" kit? and just one reducer for the jpipe?

 

Think I'm gonna definately need to enlarge the holes in the rad support... my I/c is quite a bit longer than yours... the inlet and outlet sit right at those holes... blocking maybe 1/4 of them... I see now theres no way I can feasibly trim those rubber elbows down to make that work. Other main thing I'll need to see is whether my ZX radiators fan shroud is going to pose any interference...

 

How is the BEGI RRFPR working for you? which one did you get (there are two or three different ones... the one I'm most interested in is the one that lets you set onset of gain... basically at what boost level you want the thing to do anything at)?

 

Also how is the pipe kit holding up? any corrosion or anything?

 

Lastly, do you have enough of the right kind of pipes to duplicate the pipe sections as you have them now? it looks like you used only a couple out of the 6 or 8 pieces of pipe the guy is selling... if you have them and want to sell.... then I can just buy the rubber couplers and such and save some money... I know if I buy the whole kit from the guy there's gonna be quite a bit leftover!

[cygnusx1]

I actually bought the 2.5" pipe kit from the ebay guy. I bought that reducer/adapter for the jpipe from him too and I bought an additional black elbow from a truck supply place. I do have some tubing left over but not enough to do another Z. The stuff is Stainless and will outlast the car. I actually have one of those black elbows left over I can mail you (2.5"). I didn't like the clamps that came with the pipe kit so I got a dozen T-bolt clamps from some other ebayer. I am not sure if you can use the 2.5" stuff but if you can, let me know. Very special price for you

 

The Begi 2022 FMU works as advertised. I have not put the grainger valve inline with it yet so I run it with very low onset. I initially ran it with 55psi fuel at 13psi boost but the car was waaay too rich overall (smoke). I backed to about 45psi at 15psi and like the way its running now. I cant say it don't go lean afer ?#? Rpm because I have no measuring tools for that. All I know is that it is FAST, the plugs run a good color, and I keep it on this side of 5500rpms.

 

Let me know about the pipes.

[fl327]

Shame is that no matter how cheap the intercooler is, the pipes and couplers are still going to cost a good amount to be done correctly.

[Guest bastaad525]

cygnus - okay I'm guessing you're using 240sx throttle body? definately interested in that black elbow, figuring I'll need two, and the kit only comes with one. probably wont need whatever pipes you have left over, if I'm going to end up needing to buy the whole kit either way, it has all the parts I'll need plus some.

 

I'm probably going to end up going with the 2.25" pipes, to save money, and just stretch the couplers as Jersey suggests... can't believe reducers cost $20 a pop.... Heck now that I think about it, I probably wouldn't be able to use even that rubber elbow if you wanted to sell that to me... don't think I can clamp the 2.5" down to 2.25". Argh

 

I do want to upgrade to T-bolt clamps as well... the guy selling the kit want's about $25 for that... I figure that it's probably not even an option.

 

So you DID get the BEGI unit with adjustable gain onset... I'm so tempted to get one of those... but there's that MSD unit for so cheap... it really comes down to which one I'll have to futz with less. Or just get bigger injectors.... Too many darn choices.....

[Drax240z]

Er, have you guys actually physically tried to stretch a silicone reducer/coupler? It's much easier said than done!

[Jersey]

I have one 2" coupler stretched over a 2.25" pipe and two 2.25" couplers stretched over either sides of my NPR IC 2.5" openings. No, it's not easy but it can be done.

[Guest bastaad525]

heheh no I figured it wouldnt' be too easy.... but better difficult than expensive.

 

I've found a couple places that do have the reducers I need... if I can get away with one or two I'll do that.

 

 

hey but uh... wouldn't one good benefit of stretching the couplers like that be that they'd be a tighter fit and less likely to get blown off?