rags Posted August 1, 2004 Share Posted August 1, 2004 Anyone have an exploded view of a Z31 CV axle or instructions on how to remove the inner CV from the axle? I can't for the life of me figure this one out. Thanks. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest the_dj Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Yes. I'll try to get a picture of it online tonight. (No promises...friend has the book so I have to get him to take a picture of it and send it to me.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgts-4 Posted August 2, 2004 Share Posted August 2, 2004 Hi Joe, All birfield joints are basically the same, the sliding joint, you pull back the boot to reveal the inside of the joint you then remove the snap ring and pull the shaft out of the joint with the spider and cage attached. The balls all fall out, you then remove the circlip from the end of the shaft to remove the spider, noting which side of the spider faced the end. The fixed joint you pull back the boot, mount the shaft in a vice and tap the rim of the joint with a soft faced mallet to knock the joint off the shaft ( thats what it says in the book but the ones I've done have taken a good hard whack to dislodge the joint off the internal snap ring). Now the book says that the joint cant be dismantled, but it can, you rotate the cage till it is nearly vertical to the joint and procede to remove all the balls in turn by prying out with a small screwdriver. the cage has 2 larger holes opposite each other, with the cage vertical and the large holes horizontally opposed, remove the cage with spider, then rotate leg of spider into one of the large holes and remove. Note when reassembling a shaft always make sure that the spiders are aligned exactly with each other ie leg for leg or ball for ball otherwise the joints will fail in use. All the best, Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted April 22, 2005 Share Posted April 22, 2005 Jeez, that sounds so easy...just kidding. If I'm reading right I need to dislodge the inner CV joint by whacking it with a soft-faced mallet? Is the inner snap ring round? Does the entire internal assembly come out of the housing this way or does removing the axle allow for more rotation of the cage allowing removal of the bearings? Has anyone pictures of this? I've tried rotating the joint and there appears to be no way to dislodge the balls. I'm trying to come up with a CV conversion for my NISMO R180 LSD. I already have the proper differential 6-bolt CV side flanges. I have the 6-bolt inner tulips to match the side flanges also. I have the 4-bolt outer CV tulips which will bolt ot Ross' billet companion flanges. If I use this combination (6-bolt and 4-bolt) the axle shaft can move (float) within the two CV's. I don't thibk this is good practice. The Z31 has the fixed joint up at the diff. I'm thinking that I can disassemble this joint, machine a 6-bolt flange to weld to this inner joint housing and have the equivalent of the Z31 axle assembly to fit in my 240Z. I hope that makes sense. I'm a visual guy, pictures...PLEASE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted April 22, 2005 Share Posted April 22, 2005 When all else fails grab a manual. I pulled out the book for my Xterra since in uses CV axles up front. One end is fixed and the other allows movement for suspension travel. To disassemble the fixed end you would clamp the shaft in a vise and whack on the outer housing to drive it off the shaft. Apparently, it has a split ring to retain the shaft in the joint. This would be similiar to the retaining ring which holds the axle assembly into a R200 diff. I'll shoot pictures as I disassemble one and post them for all to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedZ85 Posted April 22, 2005 Share Posted April 22, 2005 Now the book says that the joint cant be dismantled' date=' but it can, you rotate the cage till it is nearly vertical to the joint and procede to remove all the balls in turn by prying out with a small screwdriver. the cage has 2 larger holes opposite each other, with the cage vertical and the large holes horizontally opposed, remove the cage with spider, then rotate leg of spider into one of the large holes and remove. Note when reassembling a shaft always make sure that the spiders are aligned exactly with each other ie leg for leg or ball for ball otherwise the joints will fail in use. All the best, Neil[/quote'] Is that on the stub axle side of the shaft? I pulled the cage off the CV shaft and reversed it per Ross's instrustions. When i did this, the tape which had my alignment marks fell off, but i didnt thik it was a big problem because the cage, balls and reciever all looked symetrical. everythihg installed correctly when i reassembled the shaft. Is this the end you are refering to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted April 22, 2005 Share Posted April 22, 2005 I don't think so. If you had to pop the end cover off and push the shaft outwards through the housing to reveal the CV innards then this is the outer CV joint. The CV joint I'm refering to has the short axle machined into it that goes into the diff housing and engages the diff spider gears. The reason for matching the CV joint to the shaft is to ensure wear pattern matched parts go back together properly. I also think there is a disassembly/assembly criteria here but I can't valid it. Maybe someone else can? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 I don't think so. If you had to pop the end cover off and push the shaft outwards through the housing to reveal the CV innards then this is the outer CV joint. The CV joint I'm refering to has the short axle machined into it that goes into the diff housing and engages the diff spider gears. The reason for matching the CV joint to the shaft is to ensure wear pattern matched parts go back together properly. I also think there is a disassembly/assembly criteria here but I can't valid it. Maybe someone else can? I used to service Porsche CV's a lot and never put them back the way they came out. We used to disassemble 2 or 4 at a time and we'd put all the balls in the solvent together along with all the cages, and reassemble however they came back out of the solvent and never had a problem. Very few worn out CV's too, but we did service quite a few for torn boots. Coincidentally I am trying to take apart an inner Z31 joint today and it doesn't look as though the cage can be twisted sideways to get the balls out. Maybe I just need to push harder. Then again maybe I don't need to break it. It looks to me as if the outer housing is pressed onto the stub that goes into the side of the diff, so you'd have to remove the green part from the gold zinc plated part to get it apart. I guess I'll just put the whole end in the solvent tank and try to get as much grease as I can out of there and pack it full of new stuff and call it a day. That's the plan for me... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 One more thing, the cage is NOT symmetrical, and that's why Ross tells you to flip it around. If you look closely the opening on one end of the cage is bigger than the other end. It comes assembled with the big end facing the stub axle. If you pull the cage off and flip it over than it sits ~3/8" farther in, basically making the shaft a hair shorter so it doesn't bottom out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 I did get around to disassembling the inner joint. The assembly is held in place on the shaft by a c-clip like those found on the later CV axle assemblies. I pounded the inner CV assembly off with a lead mallet. The c-clip broke in two pieces in the process. Reassembly would be reversed with new c-clip. I haven't looked into acquiring another c-clip but it shouldn't be too much trouble to locate. In the interim, I'm now looking at using early 80's Porsche CV's for their compactness and strength (smaller units rated to 400hp according to Ross at MM). Custom axles would be needed but that isn't a major hurdle. I have drawn up plans for 3/4" thick adapters on the inner joint and 1" on the outer. The outers would bolt directly to the stock 240Z-280Z stub axle flange. The whole outer assembly should be about 2.5" thick, less boot, which I'm thinking will allow the boots to clear the anti-sway bar ends nicely without modifications to the bar links. Plus, Porsche type CV's are readily available and cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Neil previously described how to get the inner apart, but I doubted his instructions because I couln't rotate the cage enough to get the balls out. Anyway, he's exactly right, and I uploaded some pics of it just to share since it gave me some trouble the first time. The trick is that the inner race and the cage will get WAY out of alignment, and you have to push pretty hard, but it will rotate enough to allow the balls to come out.http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=9095 I also noticed that the inner CV balls are smaller than the outers. I guess they don't have as much misalignment as the outer which has to deal with toe and camber as well as just up and down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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