78zlt1 Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 Need a little help , I'm trying to put the front end back together, but I need some measurements to make sure I'm good before I start welding. If anyone has there front fenders off , I need to get a measurement across the engine bay at each fender bolt hole , inner lip to inner lip, as shown in the picture , bolt hole 1=a 2=b ect. ect. , and I need to get a measurement from the first bolt hole (a) to the third © center to center. (I measured the fenders and got 14" but I just like to know what it really is) ( the picture is from before I hacked the front off I took measurements but I know they were wrong , the previous repairs were terrible) Then I can get on to working on the back and subframes. Thanks all Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 You mean something like this? Mine is a 240, 1 frame horn was cut off as well as the header panel when I got the car. I cut the other side off to match the one that already had been cut off. I cut the nose off a 75 280. I did some careful measuring before I cut the 280 off. Trial fit was good. I can get you some measurements tomorrow off mine. I can also get you some measurements 0ff a 76 280 that is uncut. Hope this will help you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted August 18, 2004 Share Posted August 18, 2004 The service manual for a 78 has a blueprint and from tower center to tower center is 35.94" or 913mm. Hope that helps. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted August 19, 2004 Share Posted August 19, 2004 Measuring my 240 and 76 280, both are the same. these measurements are with the fenderes on. measuring from inside to inside. First: length Z is 14" A= 40 1/2 B= 40 3/8 C= 40 D= 39 3/4 E= 39 9/16 F= 39 1/2 G= I did not get to measure this as the hood hindges were in the way for an accurate measurement. But, it looks like a 1" taper from A to F. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zlt1 Posted August 19, 2004 Author Share Posted August 19, 2004 Thanks Dale , I have a shop manual on CD , some of the dim's are hard to read , like at Point "C" , that took awhile to decifer. Thanks alot 305240 , that will help me out , heres why.... and . . The front was cut just ahead of the strut towers, I checked all the critical locations useing the shop manual body diagram but there was no info one the fender locations, you can see by the gap how far there were off from the last repair, about an inch droop and an inch to the drivers side, the frame rails were also bent 1 inch to the drivers side , they are replaced now and STRAIGHT, plus much stronger. I'll post my frame rail drawings later , I do it all in CAD first , makes for a perfect fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 First, I made sure my car was setting level. I measured mine about 500 times I think before I cut the other frame horn off my 240. Then I measured again and left about an inch overlap on the 280 nose and frame horns I cut off. I then bolted the whole thing together, adjusted for about an hour, clamped, measured again, then did the final adjustment and bolted everything solid. After getting the hood aligned, as well as the grill and lower valance, I unbolted the fender but leaving it bolted to the header panel. I got the wife to help me lift the whole nose assy, IE: hood, fenders, header, valance off the car. I am pretty well done detailing the engine bay. I also leveled my engine in the car with the nose off. It was much easier that way. Good luck! BTW, I like the new front frame! Want to do mine? I got a 76 I still havn't made my mind up on what I'm going to do with it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zlt1 Posted August 20, 2004 Author Share Posted August 20, 2004 Same here, I built a stand out of wood and built a jig from the Steel tube I have, took a day to get it done and perfectly level and square in all directions, I measured all the points on the shop manual body diagram to confirm them, I know my frame rails are perfectly aligned. I like your idea of bolting everything up first, I think I'll tack and clamp things up and mount the fenders and hood , then make adjustments. I'll post the drawings if you want to fab a front frame up , its not hard just a lot of tedious measureing and cutting. If you are going to scrap the '76 let me know I need a drivers rear quarter or if you know where to get one I need this area by the taillights the most. Finding Parts around here is impossible, and if you do find any they are ususally in worse shape than what I have. Keep posting picks of your progress! Saw your other post , engine compartment looks nice. Here is the frame rail drawings, I threw them together in a pdf, I'll do a much better version when I complete my Sub frame connectores and put them all in one package. FRAME RAIL DRAWINGS Oh the Tube is 2.5" sq .093 and the xmember and swaybar plates are .25 thk steel, I welded nuts to the inside of the holes before assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Your front end looks good. I was faced with a similar dilemma after I wrecked mine. I considered trying to graft a new front end on the car, but I ended up taking a slightly different path. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zlt1 Posted August 20, 2004 Author Share Posted August 20, 2004 WOW that sweet, I wish I had the Skills to do that. But alas this is my first car project and I wanted to keep it simple, I don't know what the hell happened but simple aint a word I seem to use much anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 78zlt1, I've got the piece you are looking for off my 75 I scrapped. However, the piece that goes across the back isn't as long as yours. I'll check it out and make sure. I cut that piece out for my 240. I'll get the tractor and drag it back from the woods and cut it off for you. Just pay shipping if that's ok with you. I'm also hauling a 77 home tomorrow, I'll check that one out too. When I adjusted mine, I used welding clamps to hold everything in place befoe I put the first bolt in. Just a thought. But, what you are doing looks super. 74_5.0L_Z, that looks awsome! If I had it, I'b really be tempted to put it on the circle track. Just kidding. What color blue is that? I'm going blue with mine and adding the white cobra stripes. Keep us all posted on the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 The way you guys are doing it sure makes it easier to attach the fenders. But I managed. The back half of the car is Monte Carlo Blue Pearl. The rest of the car: well...... [/img] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 Wow! That rad setup is sweet. What all did it take? For some reason, I can see an L88 hood scoop on yours. Probably because I'm putting a mini L88 on mine. I've always been kind of partial to them when I seen my first one. I picked up some stainless louvers and a few mini fans. The fans are going in the rear part of the fenderwells to try and get rid of some heat. I'm also going to fill in the divit where the bumpers cover, and make that one piece. Nurf bars have been dancing in my head lately. The wife keeps shaking her head. I love those wheels. What kind/size are they? They look pretty wide. I think I can go with at least 11" on the back and 8" on the front. I would love to see some particulars on your car. It looks great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zlt1 Posted August 21, 2004 Author Share Posted August 21, 2004 305240 , Awsome! I'll Gladly pay shipping and for the panel Let me know how much and how you want me to get it to ya , my e-mail is in my profile , I've had a hard time locating stuff , I owe you one I'm clamping it up today , gotta dig thru the boxes to find all the 6x1.0 bolts for the fenders 74_5.0l_Z Looks sweet , are the inner fenders sheet metal? I like the Blue also it looks so deep I bet its even better in in real life , shaved your rain gutters too. I am Humbled by your Skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zlt1 Posted August 31, 2004 Author Share Posted August 31, 2004 Update: . Just about there, Put the fenders and hood on and off about a dozen times, a few more small adjustments and I sould have it welded up by the weekend. Then Its off to fix the rear.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 Whoa! Well done! Chit, I gotta get busy and cut that rear off for you. I got busy trying to gat that Da**ed capri going for my step son. :malebitchslap: I'll do my best to get on it in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zlt1 Posted September 14, 2004 Author Share Posted September 14, 2004 Thats Kewl , Get yer boys car going first Just shoot me an Email on how much $ ya need and how to get it to ya. Now for the Update : The Front end is solid again. all welded up , fenders fit much better now and the hood lines up well. Feels good to finally get something completed, as opposed to ripping things apart. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zlt1 Posted September 19, 2004 Author Share Posted September 19, 2004 Update: Got help turning the car around , and started work on the rear, The guy who worked on this car must have had stock in the Bondo company, The quarter was totally covered in Bondo, up to 1/2 inch thick. These are after I took a DA sander, then a wire wheel to it, DUST EVERYWHERE! I was hopeing not to have to replace the quarter, but this ones trash, so off it will come. I have a donor quarter but it is damaged at the tailight, but not as bad as the one on the car, so I hope to graphed a good section onto it and use it as a replacement. dont look like it will be back on the wheels as soon as i'd hoped. . . This is the Donor Panel .. Ordered A Spot weld drill bit and a bunch of cutting wheels... Operation "SAVE A ZEE" continues.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bluex_v1 Posted September 20, 2004 Share Posted September 20, 2004 ...But alas this is my first car project... Fooled me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78zlt1 Posted October 1, 2004 Author Share Posted October 1, 2004 Thx UPDATE: Well I finally stopped thinking about it and grabbed a cutoff wheel and hacked it off. Its Do or Die now. I think I have a plan on fixing it now that I see how it was put together,I think it will be easier to replace the outer fenderwell,quarter panel and rear subframe as a unit, instead of piecing it together. The saga continues.............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 DOOOOD!! I feel your pain.. I had a 1/2" of bondo on my rear 1/4's AND all across the hatch.. Awsome job on the fron frame though man.. I'm gona ply copycat on that I think.. my front frame is fugly, and I want to drop a 351 in so.. yah.. time for some strengthining! Keep up the good work man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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