Guest DA-MAX Posted August 23, 2004 Share Posted August 23, 2004 this is an L28ET block...I know its hard to say without breaking down to the block and checking, but given the car wasn't driven for long with the knocking occuring is it possible to say the block is salvageable? I know the rod bearings, crankshaft journals and oil pump will FOR SURE need to be replaced due to this, but is there anything else I should be worried about? the motor was up for a full rebuild, but I was wondering if there are any other things should I be concerned with? replace the all of the actual rods? entire crankshaft? i figure if the bearing(s) are toast, than its possible it might have banged up the crankshaft or journals pretty good right? I know there are no definite answers, but just looking for things to look for. Thanks for any advice, this is a project car, so no immediate fix(ie-buy a used block) or time limit is set on this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 23, 2004 Share Posted August 23, 2004 I think you're going to need to take it to a machine shop to get your answers. You'll PROBABLY be able to turn the crank and reuse the rods, but in order to know for sure someone is going to have to tear it down and measure everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 Do a compression test before you take it to the machine shop. I've disassembled two L-series engines that were "knocking" only to find a blown head gasket between adjacent cylinders! Very strange.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DA-MAX Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 thanks for the replies guys...I just picked this car up and although I was planning to do a straight rebuild anyways, it would be nice to know if the motor still has some kick in it. I'll definently run a compression test...Amazon hasn't delivered my Haynes manual yet, so while yall are here, any ideas on the #s I should be looking for across the cylinders? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DA-MAX Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 nevermind searched myself...~140 with a minimum of 130psi correct? cool, hope to test it this weekend and see whats going on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 My rule of thumb is 120 psi minimum. The important thing is any cylinder(s) which is 25 psi or more different than the rest of the cylinders. Note: Be sure to open the throttle completely when measuring compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 I tend not to pay a lot of attention to the actual psi number... different gauges read differently, I've got a cheap Actron (auto zone brand) tested and it consistently reads lower than better gauges like my friends snap-on. Even after fully rebuilding my engine I only got 120psi all the way across. I just pay attention to the overall # and check that they are all very close to each other, I think the rule is that if your lowest reading is within 10% of your highest reading, you're okay. There'll be no mistaking a blown gasket though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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