sd240z Posted September 6, 2004 Share Posted September 6, 2004 I'm swapping an R34 RB25DET "Neo" in to my '73 240z. This engine was all wheel drive. Took off the all wheel drive oil pan, took off the oil pickup, did a quick fit with the new oil pan I had....wouldn't fit.... Took off what looks like baffles from the bottom side, did another quick fit and it fits. Here's the dilema, put on the new pickup tube and tried to put the oil pan on and it won't fit.....ahhhhhhh. The pickup tube need to sit about 3 or 4 more inches to the rear....which there are holes there to bolt up the pickup tube and they line up perfect and the pan will fit with the pickup tube bolted there...the problem is...there is no hole for the pickup tube to suck oil...only the hole to bolt the pickup tube. What the %$#^& The oil pan I have is part number 11110-20p00 The pickup tube is part number 15050-20p03. I'm wondering if the RB26DETT, since this was an all wheel drive motor has the same problem and this replacement pickup tube won't work for that swap either. Or, do I have the wrong pickup tube...wrong oil pan...wrong engine, I'm at a loss...What pickup tube do the RB26 swappers use? This has definately thrown a wrench in my Labor Day RB swapping weekend. Hope someone can help. Thanks, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjfawke Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 As per the "sticky", the RB26DETT needs a modified oil pickup, so I guess this will be an issue with any of the GTS4 variant engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sd240z Posted September 8, 2004 Author Share Posted September 8, 2004 stopped by Mckinney Motorsports today and found out definately that I do have the same situation as the RB26 swappers. The second set of holes I mentioned where the pickup tube can mount "IS" the original place for the pickup tube, to bad its closed because that is where that bad boy needs to be. Mack said he would like to find an RB block to try and drill that out...anyone have a spare block laying around???? I'll buy it. Anyway, looks like I'll have to section mine out and make it longer to reach the sump. Thanks for the help, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 post pics... you sure its an rb25????? and not a rb26???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sd240z Posted September 8, 2004 Author Share Posted September 8, 2004 Neo RB25DET...100% sure, give me a few days I'll have some pics up. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 All three castins (RB20, 25, and 26) are the same for 4WD's, as far as the oil pan goes. If you use the steel pan for the Z31, you will lose the windage trays that bolt to the crank girdle. You will have to make or extensively modify the pick-up and because the 4WD pick-up boss sits farther outboard, you must modify the pan to clear it. Unfortunately, Nissan didn't extend the oil galley casting farther back so the 2WD pick up boss could be drilled; as is possible with the L engine. Matt Hutchens Motorworx Race Systems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sd240z Posted September 8, 2004 Author Share Posted September 8, 2004 Brother, You are awesome and just saved me a ton of time and headache. I'm losing sleep wondering where I can find a block to drill out.... I do see the casting along side the block and you are right...it only goes as far as the first pickup boss. Should I modify the pan to keep the windage trays? I'll search here but if anyone could get me started in the right direction as far as pan and pickup tube I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks Matt and Stony, I'm pretty sure Stony...you contacted Matt.... Love this place! Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted September 8, 2004 Share Posted September 8, 2004 I modify pans for RB26 transplants into RWD cars all the time, but they're all front sump so it's basically removing the diff (a lot of cutting). Rear sump custom pan = $$$. The hardest thing is the rail. I would use the stock rail (a lot more cutting!!) and fab up an aluminum sheet metal pan from 0.125 5052 H34. It's easy to work and welds nice. Matt Hutchens Motorworx Race Systems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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