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383 ...questions on a buildup


Guest bigjim240z

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Guest bigjim240z

ok i have my block and most parts ready to go for a 350, but now i found a shop that sells 383 cranks for an affordable price...will the 5.7 rods and hyperutectic flat top pistons that i already bought work with this crank?..i know it will all bolt together but will the pistons stick out of the top of the block?..do i need to buy pistons with a lower deck height?..i hate to buy another set...i know my freind built a 350 with a 6.0 rod and 350 crank and had to use special pistons..thanks for any help...jim

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My combo used the 400 crank and 5.7 rods with standard configuration "Claimer" pistons. I'd look into the parts you have. Good rods and pistons would have saved me from having a rebuild/ redo of the existing power plant... I'm now going with a 383 stroker crank that is 4340 forged and I'm getting it for $500 shipped. I have 4340 rods and forged wiseico pistons... I'm getting ready to drop the motor off in Feb to Pete's builder for a complete build up...

 

I'm just gonna re-use the Scat crank in a 383 build up for my truck later on...

Mike

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Pipelayer,

 

with the longer stroke you'd have to either have the 400 length rods (5.565?)w/ your pistons or go with 5.7 rod and shorter pistons. the short rods don't have the good ratio that racers want in a stroker motor , so most go with the 5.7 or 6.0 rod and get the pistons to match. On a side note, Scat makes an internally balanced stroker cranks now. i've seen them on ebay for both the 2-piece-seal blocks (pre'86) and the later 1-piece-seal blocks. they're going for ~$210 from a reputable dealer. that means you could run your flywheel and harmonic balancer instead of getting one from a 400. I'm going w/ this crank if i ever go trough my '93 truck's 350. take care and good luck

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Guest Anonymous

Those internally balanced 383 cranks seem to have stabilized around $200.00 on the auction circut. Get some hyper 383 pistons for 5.7 rods for about about $225.00 and you got the major parts for a 383 ghetto stroker. That is my plan.

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Sumo and Mike,

yea that's the one i've seen. usually the link to their other auctions will be cranks for a 2-piece seal engines, etc. that'd be slick for a sleeper car, 'cause a knowledgeable person would know you stroked your 350 by looking at the large 400 balancer on an externally balanced crank.

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Guest Anonymous

Hey: Great truck moter your about to build...

yup I said Truck. you will have gobs of torque which is good but why not just build a 400... what worried about the 2 bolt main thing I've got one never broke a main and it's in the 375-425hp range 5.5 sec 0-60 in a 5000 lb 4x4 truck! the way we really need to build it is reversed 400 block and a 350 or better yet a 327 crank. Bore the 400 .030 over and go from 377 to 383ci or with a 327 crank std bore 400 block you get a 345ci

with a 6500-8000 rpm range, dont get as much torque which is good in our application due to the light wieght (reletively) of our Z's it's all about hook up you can have all the power in the world but if you cant get it to the ground the yugo next to you will beat you. had friend who built your combo in HS it ran ok had 5500 rpm red line and that was straining it switched it around and it was a monster of a differant color.

I do not mean to start any flamez just my .02 worth

 

Elnyne

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I've never been a big fan of High reving engines IF I can make the same power lower, with a flatter torque curve. My previous 383 stroker did just fine. Although I had some traction issues, I think some of the traction related issues are due to people not setting up the chassis properly. I was able to launch fine and get plenty of traction once I got out of the hole. Tires, suspension, and air presure go a long way towards the proper setup... I use Scottie GNZ for my current example since my car is in 394 pieces...

 

Mike

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Take the Grumpyette approach. Build a 383 bottom end, but then use a more radical cam and intake to move the power curve up. This way you end up with more total HP but the stroker retains enough torque to make the engine streetable.

 

Why not build a 400? I thought 400 blocks were getting harder to come by, where as 350 blocks and 383 stroker kits are sold at K Mart (practically). I guess the difference would be price?

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Well I just got an e-mail back from my engine builder and he recommended I buy the Scat crank over the forged crank for my specific application. Looks like I will do that and spend the money saved to converting to solid roller from my hydraulic roller setup.

 

Mike

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