Cody 82 ZXT Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 How did you manage that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted September 24, 2004 Author Share Posted September 24, 2004 Read a few posts back of mine in this thread. Must have weakend it over time with the HD ACT PP and she finally went. Nice, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 2slo4u Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 OUCH!! Well, at least you got her running right! Good run even with the slip, I'd do a backflip if I could get even a 13.5. Awesome car. 81zxturbo 95slobaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Classic metal fatigue failure. Nice job. So you DO know how to shift.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted September 24, 2004 Author Share Posted September 24, 2004 Thanks guys. Just really wanted to get a real low 12 or possible 11. Yeah Cygn, i'm going to use that fork as my excuse i guess! LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Base pressure (37) + boost pressure (18) = 55 psi would be the standard answer' date=' but set it to where it needs to be so you don't detonate. I would think you should bump the base up quite a bit - 18psi on a T3 is HOT HOT HOT.[/quote'] a/f ratios have little to do with detonation. I can run 11:1 and still knock if timing and/or boost is too high. I'd get that LM1, best tool I bought this year. I would also re-gap. No more than .030" By the same token, after I installed my I/C and was running up around 14:1 air fuel ratio, after a few hard pulls on the dyno at 14ish psi, and there was NO sign of detonation at all either audible or as an erratic power curve on the dyno sheet. This was all the way up to 6000rpm. Timing was retarded about 3*. I'm still bartering with my wife for one of those LM-1's for xmas Also for what it's worth I do run a pretty large gap.... .050, also running an MSD 6A and stock turbo coil on NGK 6's, and at 14psi I get no misfiring up top. It figures that Jersey's problem ended up being dirty connections... lord it's been SO long since I've had any of THOSE gremlins pop up, the dielectric grease has worked GREAT, I forget who suggested using this on all the wiring harness connectors but I can't thank you enough!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted September 25, 2004 Share Posted September 25, 2004 I'd like to say that I think I brought up the dielectric grease for the connectors. But I did a search and RossC mentioned it way back in 2001. I had been using the stuff for over ten years in my NA. I would also like to say that when I brought it up here, my dielectric grease idea got shot down. But low and behold it works. I have the ACT 6-p,p,p,puck in my Z and lately when I push in the clutch for the first time of the day I hear a click somewhere under there....I should NEVER have looked at that picture of Jersey's fork!! Now it haunts me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted September 25, 2004 Author Share Posted September 25, 2004 Looks like i'll be getting some of that dielectric grease myself. Thanks fo teh tip 525, cygn. Hopefully your fork is fine and it's something that doesn't need the trans to be pulled to be fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 I can't sing the praises of that grease enough. I mean it had gotten so bad that I was having to clean the AFM and ECU connectors every 1-2 weeks to keep the car running normally, no joke. I haven't had to clean them in I think about 2-3 months now since putting that stuff. Cyg if that was your idea many many thanks bro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 2slo4u Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 Soldering works very well and no cleaning needed ever. Just thought I'd suggest it one more time. I do use the grease on my ecu, though. It would be quite difficult to solder all of those connectors! 81zxturbo(converted to 130mph speedo! Rock and roll!) 95slobaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jersey Posted September 27, 2004 Author Share Posted September 27, 2004 So 2slo, you solder the wires directly to your AFM, HTS and TPS and eliminate the connectors completely? I'm surprised you don't damage the interanal components, or even de-solder them, when applying the heat of the iron to the terminals of these devices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 Ugh... but soldering is just so... permanent... what if you need to disconnect something for some reason?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Cronic Posted September 28, 2004 Share Posted September 28, 2004 18psi is at 70% efficiency on the 60 trim t3. As long as you're not turning past 6000rpm. You're good. You're not blowing crazy hot air. I run 20psi constantly. The only downside to running 15+psi is the 270 thrust bearing, which doesn't like to run over 15 for an extended time. Try gapping a new set of plugs down to .028 and see how she runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 30, 2004 Share Posted September 30, 2004 18psi is at 70% efficiency on the 60 trim t3. As long as you're not turning past 6000rpm. You're good. You're not blowing crazy hot air. I run 20psi constantly. The only downside to running 15+psi is the 270 thrust bearing, which doesn't like to run over 15 for an extended time. Try gapping a new set of plugs down to .028 and see how she runs. Can someone else clarify this? I thought stock T3 was barely runing 70% efficiency at like 10 psi... let alone 18??? I keep going back and forth with the boost myself, turn it up turn it down, always worried that it's running too hot or that I'm burning out the bearing. One thing people never seem to think about, or at least to mention, is the pressure drop from the I/C. For instance, I have heard the warnings about running past 15psi before, and possible quick wearing of the thrust bearing. So for a while I had turned boost up to 14psi. But then I remembered... pressure drop on my I/C is like 1.5psi, so the turbo is actually spinning out about 15.5. Jersey's is spinning at at least 19psi... how his turbo is still alive is a mystery to me. I've seen the compressor maps for the stock T3 but haven't quite figured out how to read them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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