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Rotary Z conversion for sale - gauging interest...


auxilary

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I am considering scrapping the rotary project because I'm having a difficult time with [cost effective] welding and design of the turbo manifold at the moment, and because of that the project is taking 3x longer than it should have. Would anyone be interested in picking up where I left off?

 

parts:

 

-13b-re 2 rotor cosmo motor. Looks like it was rebuilt before I bought it. Oilpan gasket, oilpump chain, and front cover gaskets have been replaced. motor has compression, and has been lubed with ATF and turned on a regular basis. Has custom mounts for datsun 240-280z. comes with series 5 rx7 flywheel that needs resurfacing

-2 rx7 turbo transmissions

-brand new garrett t04s turbo, oil cooled only. 60-1 wheel, .7 a/r cold, .84/ar divided hot, p trim exhaust.

-custom engine side exhaust flange for manifold.

-stock twin turbos, if anyone wants to use them

-brand new in box ACT street/strip heavy duty clutch

-rx7 oil cooler

-small npr intercooler, 20x8.5x2 core, 2.5" outlets

-microtech LT8S ecu, brand new in box, manual, harness, fuse plug, etc.

-magnacore 10mm wires

-HKS sequential blow off valve

-brand new tial 44mm wastegate with 11.86psi spring and v-band clamps

-misc. stainless steel piping, 45 and 90* bends in schedule 10 304ss, 1.9" o.d, 1.682 i.d. to make exhaust manifold , 3" bends to make downpipe

-2 primary 550cc high impedence injectors, cleaned and tested by RC engineering

-2 secondary 1680 (yes, 1680)cc low impedance injectors from Marrin injectors (microtech can drive low/high imp. injectors separately)

-modified fuel rails to accept -6an lines

-walbro 255lph external inline fuel pump. 255lph @ 43psi. 6an and 8an fittings available

-aeromotive a1000-6 fuel pressure regulator with 1:1 boost ratio.

-autometer fuel pressure gauge

-new in box autometer phantom boost gauge, to 20psi

-new mazda waterpump

-new mazda clutch slave

-new mazda intake manifold gaskets

 

The motor's light, without the turbo and accessories probably weighs around 180lbs. My friend and I move it around the garage with the transmission attached by picking it up and just carrying it over to another spot, to give you an idea. Transmission is probably around 100lbs. This is why the motor sits so far forward, compared to how much further back I can move it, because I wanted some weight over the front wheels.

 

PICT0007.sized.jpg

PICT0010.sized.jpg

 

probably more stuff that I can't think of at the moment. Some parts still need to be purchased, like couplings, piping, oil cooler lines, etc.... but... any interest?

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The guy who was going to be doing the welding is telling me that he's booked up through all of october and possibly november (he's doing it at 45/hr), and the only weekend available is this weekend. Unfortunately, my divided flange hasn't arrived yet, and a server at work took a crap. I was working on it until 11pm last night, and I have to do more work tonight, which means I can't get the car towed to his shop to get stuff done (more scheduling bs that'll require 3 more paragraphs)

 

The problem being welding up the manifod and designing it on the fly. I have a general idea, and a ducttaped mockup (sort of) to go with it. I'm getting $1,000 and up quotes for the manifold design, even though it's pretty simple, it just needs to be robust enough to hold the turbo and take abuse. That's even with materials provided.

 

Shoot me a PM

 

Thanks,

-alex

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no. no regular manifold would fit, otherwise I would have gotten this done and over with. all FC/FD turbo manifolds sold commercially move the turbo forward and to the left. Mine needs to tuck in and move towards the back of the engine. Or a foot forward.

 

I already have the flanges, so that's not an issue.

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I appreciate John's help, I might be sending him the exact measurements in cad with parts to weld up...but he's still 400 miles away and it's a hit/miss with welding the manifold together for a proper fit.

 

John C., can stainless be tacked together with regular wirefeed mig? Is it going to leave some ugly residue?Maybe I'll con Jumbo240ez to help out with lures of free beer....

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John C., can stainless be tacked together with regular wirefeed mig? Is it going to leave some ugly residue?

 

Yes and maybe.

 

But why not just buy a small (2 lb) spool of stainless wire in the same diameter as what you're using now? You can also weld the whole dang thing together yourself using stainless wire in your MIG welder. You'll probably have to turn the power down a bit from what you'ld normally use for steel. Get some extra stainless tubing and practice before welding on the real part.

 

I don't know what size stainless tubing you're looking for. I have a few scrap lengths of 1.250" OD .063" wall 304 stainless tube lying around that I can sell for $1 a foot plus shipping.

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