jeromio Posted July 31, 2002 Share Posted July 31, 2002 I hadn't thought about the console. I'm not planning on having one at all (anyone wanna buy a 2000 FBody console?) I also hadn't thought about moving the motor more to the pass side - mine is about 1/2 inch over. But, as to aftermarket A/C, from what I've seen, it's way cheaper than those brackets. The quote I got for the alt bracket alone was $400! You can get a nice underdash VintageAir system with controls for less than $300. I have yet to actually complete my 280Z HVAC system. The condensor I got had a major leak. I gotta get a Camaro one anyway now that I am using a Camaro compressor. At some point, I think I will just give up on it and get a VintageAir - The stock system is pretty sucky. If you do plan on getting brackets, check with John Bzdel (http://www.montecarloss.com/ls1montecarloss/). He made his own for his project and may be amenable to making more. Check out these custom headers he made: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 31, 2002 Share Posted July 31, 2002 In regards to the heat issue: consider using Coolcar Ceramic coating on both the underbody and interior surfaces. It sprays on like undercoating. This will dramatically reduce heat transfer and also make a huge diff in interior sound levels. Latest mention is on p168 of Sept issue of Rod & Custom. Boyd Coddington is using it on his rods now. Website isn't up yet, but you can give them a call at 928-505-1372 if you're interested. I talked to the owner for over an hour - extremely helpful guy. Truly amazing stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 1, 2002 Author Share Posted August 1, 2002 I am trying to move mine all the back. 1 I have removed the heater and ac and will use the camaro stuff (maybe). 2 I do not see the fins being a problem, but electrical plugs are. 3 how far back is possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted August 1, 2002 Share Posted August 1, 2002 This has turned into a highly informative string with a lot of random information that will be very useful to me, and I'm sure to others also. I do want to throw out a word of caution, however. I know that a lot of the stuff I'm saying is based on my particular goals and opinions - which are probably not the same as anyone else. Take everything with a grain of salt and evaluate it in light of your own particular needs/desires. I get real nervous thinking about someone taking something I've said on this forum as gospel and then proceeding to do something that wouldn't be right for their application. Also, I'm still in the very early stages of my transplant so much of what I'm saying is "planning to" not "having done". As I generate my "LS-1/T-56 Updates" I'll report what I've actually done and what I see as the pros and cons - still somewhat based on opinion but will have actual results to back it up a bit. Keep up the great flow of information. Thanks to all!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 2, 2002 Author Share Posted August 2, 2002 I need some links for AC units. cyrus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 HEre: http://www.hotrodsusa.com/cgi-bin/tame/buynow/non-brand.tam?rlk=166898 http://www.yogisinc.com/results.cfm?Category=55 http://www.yogisinc.com/results.cfm?Category=54 Those are the only links I happen to have. Best is to pick up a magazine like StreetRodder and look thru the ads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DRK Posted August 2, 2002 Share Posted August 2, 2002 Here is Vintage Air's website: http://www.vintageair.com/vintage.htm Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 5, 2002 Author Share Posted August 5, 2002 Ok busted wrench this weekend, finished motor mounting and trans mount. got pics but dont know how to get from desktop to screen... help this mounting is soooo good, strong, light, and simple. cyrus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted August 6, 2002 Share Posted August 6, 2002 Cyrus, Underneath the word "message" when you pull up a reply screen you'll see "UBB Code is enabled". Single click on that and it'll bring up a screen that tells you how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 6, 2002 Author Share Posted August 6, 2002 I still cant post pic from my desktop... LS1 WARNINGS: 1 use a cross member may cause your engine oil pan not to clear upon installation. 2 corvette mounts hit steering 3 my pass. side head is 1 inch from the firewall, this is bad... installation is horrible..,move it forward 1/2 inch. cyrus code: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 6, 2002 Share Posted August 6, 2002 That's cuz no one can access your desktop machine. You have to post your pictures somewhere that is accessible to the internet. Like http://photos.yahoo.com or http://imagestation.com or something. My T56 is scheduled to arrive (finally!) tomorrow afternoon. Clutch came this AM and Slave came yesterday. Still haven't bought a Master. Holding out hope that my Datsun master will work. (Yes, for me, at this point, that $100 for a new Master is significant. ) Once the motor is back in, then I can get back on the exhaust and complete the fuel line connections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 6, 2002 Share Posted August 6, 2002 FWIW, I've got a T56 from an LT1 in my car - NO bashing required of the tunnel. All I did was push it up in there and use a prybar to gain a little clearance around the reverse switch. I obviously cut out the old trannie mounts, no biggie. I don't think a stock Datsun master will do the T56 but it's worth a shot I guess. Worse comes to worse and you need a host for the pics lemme' know - I can host. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 7, 2002 Author Share Posted August 7, 2002 Ok, I am in a better mood today. I redrilled the corvette brackets to move the engine 0.600" forward and made shim under the biscuits to raise the motor, and relieved the motor bracket near the streering shaft. I need to know where the motor and trans need to be positioned to have alignmetn with the dif and drive shaft. I am using the distance between the rack and harmonic as my measuring point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone Star 1 Posted August 7, 2002 Share Posted August 7, 2002 Cyrus My pass side head is 2 1/8" from the fire wall and in my opinion this is as far back as the motor should be set. I had a lot fo trouble when I wired the motor, when set at this location. I had to unbolt, and slide the motor forward, wire and then push it back in place and adjust the wires to allow it to move back to be mounted. My AC pully sets over the rack with about 3/8" clearence. My motor also is offset to the pass side about 1/2". Everthing you do changes how the motor fits. Rising and lowering the trany tail shaft will change the distance between the pully and the steering rack. The motor will fit, it's just a matter finding the spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 7, 2002 Share Posted August 7, 2002 The other major consideration which has been a very popular subject on this board, but not yet in this thread, is the alignment of the trans ouput with the diff input. Improper alignment can cause major driveline vibration problems. Pete's site has lot sof detailed info on this. This caused me many headaches and ate up lots and lots of trial and error time. Maybe 20-25 hours of just moving the motor around and taking measurements. I bought an angle finder from Home Depot (just a big plastic dial). I could use this to measure the vertical plane of the trans output to match it to that of the diff input. The horizontal was more difficult. I had to try and use the chassis for reference points. What I ended up settling on was running long, straight dowels (just finding fairly straight, unwarped dowels was a pain) thru the motor mount towers (which the bolt thru Camaro motor mounts attach to). I had to make sure that the 2 were parallel to each other and that those 2 lines were in turn parallel to the frame rails by taking various measurements. This all assumes that the diff is mounted orthagonally to the frame rails (which it should be). I'm still not 100% sure that I achieved optimal alignment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted August 7, 2002 Share Posted August 7, 2002 Interesting. My experience in industrial applications with driveshafts is that there needs to be a 5-10° offset to eliminate universal induced vibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 Pete's an engineer and can essplain the details better'n me. But, yeah, I've heard that optimal driveline configuration has the cups in the UJoints rotating for lubrication. Therefore the actual driveshaft should be somewhat cockeyed relative to the input and output (trans and diff) and won't be parallel with the frame rails. But, what I'm referring to is something different and more critical. Imagine the axes of each unit (trans and diff) extending into space straight out (from the tail of the trans and the pinion of the diff). What I'm taking about is ensuring that those two lines are parallel. For example, my trans is slightly down and towards the passenger side relative to my diff. BUT, (hopefully) the 2 are aligned such that the inputs and outputs are still parallel. Another way to envision it is to take a perfectly flat plate of steel and push it up against the flat part of the trans output shaft and another against the flange of the diff. Now the planes created by these two fictional plates should be parallel (in 2 dimensions) such that you can draw a line between the 2 and it will form a right angle (90 degrees) with both planes. And any and all of those right angle lines that you draw will have the same length. What this does is reduce vibration and stress caused by the power of the rotating trans output from working towards anything other than merely turning the diff input. Or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 I understand what you're saying. Remember - the u-joints don't think one dimensionally or even two. 5-10° off absolutely, perfectly aligned, in any combination of the three dimensions works for them - BUT - if the combination is too much, or too little, then you're back into the vibration thing again. It's a fun dance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 8, 2002 Author Share Posted August 8, 2002 If you remember 70 and 71 240z had the diff foward which cause a slight angle of the half shafts. Datsun fixed this by moving the diff in 72 to stop the vibrations. If a u joint is angled it actual speeds up and slows down thru its rotation. So a simialar angle needs to be on the other end. How is pete and how do we find the engine position for a straight drive train. cyrus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 8, 2002 Share Posted August 8, 2002 Pete Paraska: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/drivelinemods.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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