maichor Posted August 10, 2002 Share Posted August 10, 2002 Cyrus emailed a picture of his new crossmember. LOOKING GOOD! You can copy and paste this URL to see it. The link will not work since geocities forbids it. http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104/1.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 12, 2002 Author Share Posted August 12, 2002 I started on the wiring but I need: 1 2001 ss camaro wiring diagram 2 1971 datsun wiring diagram 3 lots of luck where can I get the above cyrus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 12, 2002 Share Posted August 12, 2002 Not sure why you would need the Datsun wiring diagram. In fact, I gutted all the crappy old wiring forward of the firewall. Needed to be redone with relays anyway. I bought the CD Shop manuals for a 75Z (since I got the HVAC from a 75) from idealZ.com (which is now defunct? Changed to something else?) As to the Camaro wiring, you can get just the wiring diagrams from http://helminc.com . Or, you may as well get the full manual. I bought a set of CDs that contain the complete GM service information 95 thru 99 offa guy on ebay. It was way cheap, like $50 - seemed a little too cheap. Prolly copies, although the actual CDs looked legit. Unfortunately the whole thing has to be installed on the HD and it sucks up 2.5gig. Very nice though. Everything is indexed, nice big images of parts and diagrams. Anyway, I guess that's a long, drawn out way of suggesting you check ebay. Also comb thru the classifieds at ls1.com and ls1tech.com since people often sell used Helms manuals there. You can also check the Sponsor/GP sections of those boards to check for special prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TexasShadow Posted August 12, 2002 Share Posted August 12, 2002 Cyrus, You might try: Nissan Service Publications 20770 Westwood Drive Cleveland, Ohio 44136 (440) 572-7280 This is the outfit that will send you photocopies of the FSM's. They may have a subset of just the wiring diagrams. Otherwise, be prepared to lay out about $75. You might also contact Courtesy Nissan in Irving, Texas at (972) 263-5488 and see if they have something on CD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 12, 2002 Author Share Posted August 12, 2002 I am using the datsun harness for the lights, horn, etc... and the camaro harness for engine, dash, and body control computer. I have removed the 240 dash and since I will not use any of the gauges from the datsun I want to remove all extra stuff. I own the 2001 shop manuals but they do not have one large wiring harness and helm does not sell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 13, 2002 Author Share Posted August 13, 2002 Ok, I hooked up the tank and almost the wiring harness for the LS1. I want to see if it will start first, then I will start eliminating wires. It lookes like the radio and lights must be 30 percent of all the wires. cyrus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted August 13, 2002 Share Posted August 13, 2002 Cyrus, I didn't see where you said what fuel pump you are using. Are you using the Camaro tank and internal pump or an aftermarket pump? That is another area I don't have nailed down yet except I know I intend to stay with the Z fuel tank and use an externally mounted pump. Also - intend to use the Camaro wiring for OBDII and engine management only. I'm going to have Datsun senders installed additionally to handle the stock Datsun gauges. I am really trying to keep the Chevy part and the Datsun part as segregated as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 13, 2002 Share Posted August 13, 2002 The problem with the Datsun mfuel system is you have to totally redo it. The tank has no baffles and no sump. The only way to make it work is to use 2 pumps, one feeding a small tank that has a high pressure pump. You also need a Fuel pressure regulator and a fuel pressure sending unit. All of these (expensive) parts must be patched into the wiring harness and made to communicate with the PCM. Also, it's probably not a good idea to re-use the stock Datsun lines. They're sorta small, and mine were pretty gummed up. Anyway, this is why I decided to use the FBody tank - $60 from my local salvage yard and it included the whole works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted August 13, 2002 Share Posted August 13, 2002 Jeromio, I have a 280Z which is already fuel injected. The fuel tank has the expansion tank, return line, etc. Why can't an external pump communicate with the Chevy ECM in the same fashion that the Chevy in-tank pump does? Not all fuel injected Chevy engines have had in-tank pumps. The Chevy bypass valve can feed the Datsun tank return line. Other than handling capacity differences I don't see a big problem. Am I missing something that you're trying to say and I'm just not understanding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maichor Posted August 14, 2002 Share Posted August 14, 2002 Thought you guys might enjoy this. Although the ATI Procharger is the most popular SC for the LS1--easy fit in our cars also, here is a new alternative from S&P. I don't know details yet, but hopefully it won't be in the price range of the Lingenfelter or ATI stuff. I guess I should finish the car before I start dreaming up new stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 14, 2002 Author Share Posted August 14, 2002 To show I am actually working and not just lying... cyrus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 15, 2002 Author Share Posted August 15, 2002 I just started my engine for the 1st time!!! Everything was just lying wherever but It ran (3 sec). The rush What radiator do I use with the LS1? hose?, which goes where? cyrus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeromio Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 That is highly cool. The guy I bought my motor from started it before we loaded it up on the trailer. It was just sitting on his shop floor with all the components wired up and a camaro gas tank. Pretty strange to see it jump when it first kicked over. I will be using the JTR recommended radiator. I actually bought the cheaper, brass versrion. http://240z.jeromio.com/camaroradiator.html If I had to do it over again, I would've spent the extra $50 or so dollars and gotten the aluminum Griffin radiator. Hoses? Cut and paste. Or in this case, cut and hose clamp. When I set this radiator up with the L28, I was able to find hoses by taking some measuerements and then just combing thru the hose aisle at the autoparts store. You can also just buy those universal flexi hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone Star 1 Posted August 15, 2002 Share Posted August 15, 2002 I used the stock 98 LS1 Z28 bottom hose and a Gates 22358 for the top hose. I had to cut off both ends of the top hose to make it fit. The bottom hose hooks to the thermostat housing. Bet it gave you the shivers to here it run! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyrus Posted August 16, 2002 Author Share Posted August 16, 2002 Yup, It look backwards... oh well I start cutting out the extra wire in the camaro harness. total so far removed 6.95 lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Daddyrick Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 There is a better way to install the LS1. I used a bare LS1 block for mockup mounting and found that the Corvette engine mounts are the way to go. A simple subframe is connected to the frame rails of the Zcar. This allows the towers on the Zcar to be removed for accessory clearance. I just finished putting the finishing touches on a 4-wheel drive S10 with a similar Vette motor that I had to complete. It was a project that I started a long time ago and had to finish before I could continue on my pet project. Soon I will be able to get back to my Zcar project and will show pics of how I mounted the LS1. I just wanted to go another route with the mounting of the engine. All the other ways may be perfect, but for me, they look too stressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phantom Posted August 16, 2002 Share Posted August 16, 2002 Daddyrick, Welcome to what may be the longest thread in HybridZ history. Your engine mount method sounds very similar to Maichor. His is just back a bit further to clear a ford power steering rack. How far are your heads from the firewall? Are you installing in a 240, 260 or 280? Are you going with the Chevy tank & intank fuel pump or using the Z tank with an external pump? Are you using a manual or an auto? After looking at the test mount block in my car I don't see this installation as having any overwhelmingly difficult problems - just lot's of little details to resolve - in a manner that the fix for one doesn't complicate the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maichor Posted August 17, 2002 Share Posted August 17, 2002 Yes, this is a long thread. However, it is a very good one. I agree that the Corvette mounts are the best. Use the Corvette towers and the stock Corvette rubber mounts. They are taller and don't require a large hole (1 3/16") like the biscuits I have. On the 2nd page of pictures on my site, you can see the difference in the cross member that goes under the motor. You can see that Cyrus's setup (bottom pic) has the small holes and no extra platform that I had to make for the shorter rubber biscuits. Page 3 shows the taller stock mount--flush against the cross member. (courtesy of Cyrus) Cross member comparison Closeup of the stock Corvette mount By the way Cyrus, if you want me to remove those pics, I will. Do you have a place that you post your pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DRK Posted August 17, 2002 Share Posted August 17, 2002 I am looking at the setup using the Street and Performance mounts and small biscuits, and can't figure out why you need a large hole in the crossmember. Maybe I am just really tired. I would think the corvette mounts would be expensive to obtain. Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maichor Posted August 17, 2002 Share Posted August 17, 2002 The S&P mounts have a metal flange on which the biscuit sits. Then, the other smaller rubber goes on the bolt from underneath an inserts up through the flange. If you do not have the large hole, the flange will sit on the crossmember causing the flange to bend. The rubber underneath also would not mate as it was designed. You could grind off the flange and the mount would work with the small hole, but it was not designed to work that way. The purpose of the flange and the insert coming from below is to eliminate lateral sheer forces that will be placed on the bolt without them. You can see the smaller rubber pieces in the picture at the top of page 3 of this post. S&P mounts with towers = $99.00 brand new. (ME) GM towers and mounts = $100 from junk yard (Cyrus) or $$$$$$$$$$$$$$!!! new. Hope that helps! I can email a closeup pic if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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