Guest MMMQuest Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 After work one day I started my car and drove it to the other side of the parking lot. I then turned off my car and put in two quarts of mobil 1. I tried to start the car and it cranked fine, but no go. So instinctively I pulled the plugs to inspect. Plugs reeked of gas. I let the car sit overnight to dry out the cylinders and tried the next day. Still cranked fine but no start. So, I pulled the plugs and coil wire and let the engine crank. Seemed like an awful lot of fuel coming out of the plug holes. I had already replaced the plugs and fuel pressure regulator, so I knew those weren't the problem. Then I get my hot rod buddy to help and he decides to pinch the fuel line right after the fuel filter. I can't believe the bastard started. Problem is once you let go it turns off. Plus it really won't hold idle that well with the line pinched. I've had this car for about 6 months and it has never had problems starting. I've actually had comments on how easy to start it is. So any thoughts on what the problem might be would be great. I thought maybe something electrical to the fuel pump that tells it to run 100% pressure or maybe 50% pressure for starting. Hell, I don't even know if 82 turbos have something like that. Thanks for any response!! Matt Moore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wigenOut-S30 Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 I just .. I mean Just had this same exact problem in my 77 with a 82 turbo motor. I went through and replaced dizzy cap, spark plugs, rotor, checked output of spark.. It was just getting way too much fuel. So I went to a buddies place and grabbed some stuff from his 280zxT parts car.. Igniter, AFM, and ECU.. I switched the igniter out.. still the same problem. I switched the ECU.. BAM fired right up.. So I am thinking something in the ECU either went bad or worked its way loose. I also cleaned all of the contacts to the ECU , TPS , AFM before replacing anything.. So. Might want to try a used Turbo ECU from somewhere.. I sure hope this helps..Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MMMQuest Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 could it be a faulty coolant temp sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 Yah, that would be my first guess; Thermotime switch. If it's misreading, it can mess with the ecu.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 2slo4u Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 Check the cylinder head temperature sensor. It is right above the starter on the head. If the connection is loose or has too much resistance, the car WILL flood out. It is good to replace the plug for that sensor and clean the terminals on these (81-83 turbo). It's happened on two of my turbo zx's. Matter of fact, the reason I got such a good deal on my current one is because the guy couldn't figure out why the car was flooding. When I got the car, I cleaned the sensor and replaced the corroded connector, and imagine that... it cranked immediately. And the coolant temp sensor and the thermotime switches do not connect to the ecu on the turbo 280zx's. The coolant temp sensor goes to the dash gauge, and the thermotime switch goes to the injector fan timer that is located next to the fuse box. You can totally disconnect these two sensors and the car will run fine. The turbo 280zx's rely only on the air flow meter, cylinder head temperature sensor, the crank sensor, and the idle switch to give the ecu information to run correctly. -The thermotime switch is just a switch. It only connects when the engine reaches a certain temperature to tell the injector fan timer to turn the fan on when you turn the car off. If you touch it to ground and turn the key off, the injector fan will kick on and run for 5 to 10 minutes. -The coolant temperature sensor is used just for the dash gauge and is a variable resistor that changes resistance depending on the water temperature so you can get a general idea of how hot or cool your engine is running. If you ground the coolant temp. sensor, the dash gauge will go off the scale and show very high temp. reading. Both the thermotime switch and the coolant temperature sensors are located in the radiator hose neck that comes off of the head on the front of the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted October 2, 2004 Share Posted October 2, 2004 I second the head temperature sender. I just bought a car dirt cheap because it would flood exactly the way you are describing. And after switching every part of the car out injectors, afm, ecu, coolant temp switch, fpr, cap, rotor etc... I finally bought a new sender at nissan $37 put it in and it fired right up. Not to get off topic but 2slo4u what about the coolant temp switch in heater hose lines. I thought the car needed that for some reason. Or that might be thermotime switch you were talking about, well when I get home from work tonight i'll look it up in my manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 2slo4u Posted October 3, 2004 Share Posted October 3, 2004 Thumper, the sensor in the coolant line is for the a/c system. It has something to do with not letting the heater valve open until the engine warms up to a specified temperature. The thermotime switch is on the aluminum neck that connects to the head on the front of the engine. The temperature sender for the dash gauge is also there, right next to it. On the turbo 280's these sensors onlyl have one wire each. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MMMQuest Posted October 4, 2004 Share Posted October 4, 2004 Damn, I thought I got a deal for 37 bucks when I came into the nissan parts department with my oreilly's shirt on. The lady at the desk said she would give me the oreilly discount! It was just coincidence that I was on my way to work when I went up there. Anyway thanks for all your replys guys. I will get the part in before friday, maybe wednesday, and I'll let ya'll know if the cylinder head temp sensor is the problem. BTW Wiggenout you're livin my dream, I have a 72 240 with a 4 barrel carbed and camed L28. What sucks is that it has dished pistons and it's an N42 block. I thought about nitrous, but I'd rather just install my 82 turbo engine with the 5 speed already in the car. I just don't have the electrical knowledge of the car to know what I need to transfer over. And besides that the 240 doesn't run now because of the electrical mess that the people who installed the engine left for me... Again thanks for the help guys! Matt Moore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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