Audio Amp Recommendation...

[Mikelly]

Guys, I've got an MP3 head unit, and FOUR 3 way 6.5 speakers, and have a 12 inch sub in a custom cabinet coming... All this is in the Vette. I need a recommendation on a decent amp design... My headunit has 4 pre-amp outs as well as a seperate Base channel. I would like to keep it to just one amp if possible... Is it?

 

Inputs from the audio experts on the optimal design, please... I plan to buy the amp/ amps - crossovers as soon as a recommendation is made.

 

Thanks!

Mike

[datsunlover]

Not saying I'm an expert at anything, but I have run a very similar system in a few cars over the years (z's, 200sx) the exception being a pair of 6x9's (in the rear) instead of 6.5".

Idealy, I'd say get two amps. A 4 chanel to power all your 4 6.5" (run off the pre-amp outs) and a 2 chanel bridgable amp (or mono 1 chanel) with built in x-over for the sub. I assume your head unit will have at least a gain/volume control for the sub-out, and this will let you 'tune' the system to your liking. (don't know if you like thunderous bass or just a good kick drum 'hit'..)

 

Another way to do this using only ONE amp, would be to get a 4 chanel (also with a built in x-over) that you can bridge the 2 rear chanels together to run the sub. Then power a set of the 6.5" off the front chanels, and use the front speaker outputs from the head unit for the other set of 6.5". Not as 'flexible' but probly a little cheaper to buy only one amp..

[Moridin]

Mike, my two favorite amp companies for the price are U.S. Acoustics and Blaupunkt T-Class ones.

 

My recomendation for is price is to use 2 or 3 amps. One 4 channel for the 6.5s and another for the sub, or two 2 channel amps for the 6.5s and one for the sub. All in one amps can get quite pricey and they don't seem to put out the wattage as seperate ones. A couple of things to look for are the right RMS wattage, high signal to noise ratio, and at what voltage does the company test their amps.

 

Now, for wiring, if you haven't bought all of it already, I would highly suggest going to http://www.knukonceptz.com, because their stuff is priced very reasonable and quality equal to, or above that of Monster Cable.

 

Mike, do you know the specs of your speakers and sub? If so, I may be able to help you picking out some good amps if you haven't already decided on what you want.

[Mikelly]

The sub I just agreed to buy is a Farenheit CK12 in a custom cabinet. The 6.5s are a set of 3 way Blaupunkts that are dual design, with a mid sub wired and then the mid/high on a seperate channel... and a pair of DB Bass 3 ways. Both sets have 150watt peak ratings and have decent specs 93 db sensitivity, with frequency of 35hz-20K on the blaupunkts and 45hz-22K on the DB Bass... S/N is good.

 

Mike

[Moridin]

Mike, is this the sub you bought? http://www.cardomain.com/item/POWFBX12

 

If so, even though it says its 700watts RMS, I'm sure you can get some good sound out of a 500watts RMS amp which may get expensive. I believe this is the manual for the sub, which from I've seen is made by Power Acoustik, right? If you can get the box minus the sub woofer, then I would do it, because from what I've read you don't like heavy bass and amping that sub can cost quite a bit to do it right. Here's a $70 MB Quart Discus 12" sub on http://www.sounddomain.com http://www.cardomain.com/item/MBQDWE304 The recommended RMS wattage is 175, which is much cheaper to amp. For the MB Quart sub, you could get away with this Alpine amp from here: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13201

You could also do this US Acoustics one, but it may be a bit much: http://www.cardomain.com/item/USAUSC2080. Here's what I came up with for the big FBX sub: http://www.cardomain.com/item/USAUSC2100 or http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=12398

 

For your speakers, assuming there all require about 70 watts RMS (From what I looked up for the Blaupunkts I could find. Are they components or all together? I couldn't find any info on the DB Bass 3 ways.) For those I would use this amp: http://www.cardomain.com/item/USAUSC4065. If you want to step it up on power to 85 watts x 4 channels RMS, then I would use this one: http://www.cardomain.com/item/USAUSC4085.

 

I'll see what else I can find. Do you have your wiring worked out yet, because I would probably suggest running a capacitator and some large gauge wire to everthing? Have you worked out where you want to mount the amps, because the amp's footprint may also help you make your decision. Generally, the more powerful the amp, the larger it is, unless you can find where to buy those Blaupunkt amps, but I have no idea where to get them anymore.

 

Hope this helps

[PhaTTy]

I love Blaupunkt to death.. just wish they could make some higher powered amplifiers. If you want a nice sounding system, the best price you will find for blaupunkt is here:

 

http://store.yahoo.com/discountsonline/blaupunkt.html

 

If you want big bass and big boom from subwoofers then I recommend HiFonics amplifiers, which can be found at a decent price here:

 

http://stores.ebay.com/wwwaudiovibrationzcom_Hifonics_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZ1QQsclZallQQsotimedisplayZ2QQstorecachemissZwwwaudiovibrationzcomQQtZkm

[speeder]

This one is what I would buy if I was getting one now.

6 Channels in one amp, Low pass built in for the sub, plenty of clean power for a small interior.

[Guest rick458]

Hifonics makes some killer 5 channel amps

and have a very good reputaion

not a cheap way to go though

[onephatz]

I'd have to agree with speeder. installing multiple amps gets annoying. by using a single amp you greatly simplify wiring power and where rca's and speaker wiring need to go. as far as brand, I think sticking with an upper level brand is the only way to go. usually the upper level amps are rated, but then exceed their rated output if you so desired.

 

also don't forget to get a capcitor.

[280zinsanity]

Here is what I have done in multiple vehicles..

 

 

Buy a 4 channel amp that is 2 ohm stero stable.

 

Hook up all 4 6 1/2s to the front two channels, and then bridge the rear channel for your 12" sub. THough, if you desire the fade control capability on all speakers, then this would not be your best option.

 

If you want full control, then like whats been said, a 5 or 6 channel amp would be key, and since your have plenty of outputs then your good to go.

 

On brand.. well, sometimes the best isn't the best. Some "higher" end brands now focus on advertising and appearance, other than quality *cough*Kicker, JL Audio, Rockford Fosgate*cough*

 

Make sure that the amp you do buy, you are able to handle and look at in person at a store front in a local store, and make sure you get a good warranty. Circuit City and Best Buy have good warranty programs. Local shops usually do to. And for example, I have had my Profile California 50X4 amp for 6 years now. Still works fine and never gave me issues. It was always hooked up right. So the install has to be correct. Make sure your wire guage is proper, and yes, a nice capacitor and maybe a deep cell barrety will allow you to have full potential of your amp. And since you said its going in a 'Vette, I would buy what it takes to make everything proper.

 

I myself am looking at buying a DBdrive Speed series a490 amp. It has:

 

4 X 90 Watts @ 4 Ohms

4 x 180 Watts @ 2 Ohms

2 x 360 Watts @ 4 Ohms

 

· Class "AB" Circuitry

· Audiophile Grade Components

· DRIVESINK Technology (Heat Mgt. System)

· High Efficiency Mosfet X Outputs

· On-board High/Low Pass X-Over

· On-board Bass Boost Remote

· Enhanced Dynamic Performance

· 2 ohms Stereo Capability

· Bridgeable

 

 

It runs about $250, but its worth it with a 2 year warranty

 

 

THough, I never care about hooking up multiple amps. I have a 4 channel amp and a mono amp in my car. Took about 3 hours, but there is alot of wires. Oh well...

[Mikelly]

Funny thing is that the typical Harness adapters that come for installing aftermarket headunits into the C5 don't use more than 2 wires, the clock power and the ground! So I had to wire everything and have one dedicated fused line from the battery to the powered sub. And I've got one set of RCAs run already, so most of the work, including new wiring to the 4 6.5s is done!

 

I defenitely want to keep with one amp if possible...

Mike 8)

[Moridin]

If you want to say with one amp, its probably going to be more expensive. I had two Hifonics amps that I bought used and I blew one out. The other still works fine.

 

Wiring up multiple amps isn't all that difficult with the wide selection of distribution blocks and wiring needs.

 

Here's what I'm going to wire up in the Honda as soon as I get it running properly:

 

Front 6.5" components (seperate tweeter and mid-range speaker) from CDT, rear 6.5" components from MA Audio, and two 10" CDT short throw subs. All this will be powered by three amps. Two Blaupunkt T-Class 2 channel amps and one U.S. Acoustics 2 channel amp powering all the speakers. I know one of my Blaupunkt amps will power the subs, but I'm undecided on whether the other Blaupunkt will power the front or rear speakers. The subs will be in custom enclosures and the amps mounted to the back of my rear fold down seats. Everything will be protected with mesh grills and kept secret with some home stereo speaker covering cloth.

 

I'm going to run 0/1 gauge knukoneptz.com wire from the starter to the battery in the back, then 0/1 gauge from the battery to a 1 farad capacitator, then from there to a distribution block split into 4 gauge wires running to each amp. Ground wires will consist of 4 gauge running from each amp to a distribution block into one 0/1 gauge amp. Three pairs of RCA interconnects from knukonceptz.com, one running from each amp, to the head unit.

[Mikelly]

Got the box and Farrenheit CK12 in tonight... Fits very nicely... I also dug up the instructions for the Head unit and I've got an issue... one less set of jacks for the amp... Looks like I'll be running a 4 channel, all four 6.5s to the front channel and the sub through the back channel... So now I need a Capacetor, an amp, and I guess I'll run a 4 gage feed to the amp. Fortunately I've got a decent audio wholesale place up the street...

 

Mike 8)

[Mikelly]

Well I got my system installed in the Vette last night... I bought this Amp Yesterday and paid more for it 'cause I got it local...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38638&item=7937574803&rd=1

 

Sucks to see it about $75 cheaper, but I can go back on them if it craps out.

 

I still have to get the right gage fuse link, since the one I was using with my bass tube was 8 gage... We did the math on my system while I was at the shop, and calculated the sum of the parts, with my intended use, and they recommended I NOT install a capacitor since I'm not one who is BIG on HUGE bass... After hooking the amp up to the four 6.5s I could have been fine with that combo... Only thing I really like about this amp is that it has line outs so I COULD add an additional amp for JUST the sub later on, with a power distribution block... I was very happy with the tunability of this amp, and didn't feel bad paying $200 for it until I saw this link... BUt oh well... I save so much money bargain hunting that once in a while it is OK to pay more I guess...

 

One thing about this system... It is CLEAN and LOUD... I cleaned up the 4 speakers tremendously, and can now appreciate the quality of those four 6.5s much better... The wife was NOT so happy with the bass because it is a bit loud, so I'll be dialing the gains down a bit. Thing rocks now!

 

Today I'll go back and put in the fused link, add a grill for the sub, since I'll still use the deck space and don't want something poking through it. I'll also go back and tidy up the wire lengths because I purposely left everything long in the moch up... But I must admit, with a car that looks as good as this vette, the audio should be as nice... Now I think it is.

 

I'll take pics when all is done and clean!

Mike 8)

[Moridin]

Congrats on the amp choice. Looks like it fits your needs very well. I saw your previous post and I was going to say something about using an amp with a pass through, but it looks like you already took care of it. Too bad I don't live out in your area to hear it.

[Mikelly]

Yea, when I saw the passthrough on that one, I knew that I wanted it... I may eventually split off that amp and run a seperate sub amp to drive the 12 inch unit. So I figured it was a good choice... Looks awesome with the blue lights lit up in the dark! May have to get another of the same brand.

 

Mike 8)