Way to change shocks w/o a spring compressor

[Hugh]

never thought of that before, good advice!

[Guest Phil1934]

I had a HF pair but loaned them to my neighbor about 6 mos. ago so when I asked if he had a set last month, he said he did, but he gave them away. I didn't want to say anything or he would rush right out and get me a pair, so I did it the hard way. I cut 2-1/2 coils before i even tried and still it was a finger mashing, cussing experience. I should have just got another pair, but that's one of those tools you only use every couple of years. Car sits nice now with the V8 so hopefully I can turn my attention to the other end this weekend.

[VRJoe]

I agree, always grease them before use (I put some silicon spray on them before use). Keep an eye out at Sears, they go on sale for 1/2 price every now and then. I've been quite happy with mine.

 

- Joe

[Miles]

I found this at another Z site:

 

This is easy. The only special tool you MUST have is spring compressors. These aren't expensive, and are also available for rent from some parts stores. Once properly equipped, all you have to do is:

 

1. Jack the car up, secure it on jack stands, and remove the tires.

2. Open the hood and hatch, and remove the plastic plugs/covers.

3. Loosen the nut that lives under there, but DO NOT remove it entirely.

4. Disconnect the end links for your sway bars.

5. Disconnect the brake lines, front and rear.

6. Remove the two large bolts the hold the front strut assembly to the steering knuckle.

7. Remove the three nuts holding the strut insulator to the body under the hood.

8. You may need to disconnect the TC rods where they bolt on to the front control arm.

9. Take the front strut assembly out of the car.

10. Remove the nuts from the four bolts that hold the halfshaft to the wheel axle.

11. Disconnect the halfshaft from the axle.

12. Remove the three nuts holding the strut insulator to the body.

13 Lower the strut assembly downward until the studs clear the bodywork, the pivot it outward until it clears the fender. Careful, don't scratch the wheel arch!

14. Place the spring compressors in to the spring, and, believe it or not, compress the spring.

15. Remove the nuts loosened in step 3.

16. Remove the upper spring seats and springs.

17. With whatever burly tool you can get, loosen the large nuts that hold the strut cartridge in the strut housing.

18. Remove the strut cartridges, and toss 'em out!

19. There should be oil in the strut housings, but if not, add some oil.Aim for an ounce or two. This helps radiate heat from the cartridge.

20. Put the new strut in, and retighten the nuts. Make sure they're tight - if they get loose the struts will rattle around.

21. Compress the new springs, and place them on the strut assembly.

22. Put the upper spring seats back on, and tighen the retaining nuts.

23 CAREFULLY loosen the spring compressors.

24. Once everything looks seated well, put the rest of it back together - remember to bleed the brakes thoroughly.

 

Leaving the rear strut assembly in the car would save some time and there appears to be room to pull the rear assembly out and away from the fender and then install a spring compressor.

 

Miles

[johnc]

use a $2,000 tool to remove something that requires a $10 tool to use

 

Yeah, I know. But when you own a plasma cutter, everything needs to be cut!

[Sparky]

use a $2,000 tool to remove something that requires a $10 tool to use

 

Yeah, I know. But when you own a plasma cutter, everything needs to be cut!

 

YES! I couldnt agree more.

 

its fun to slice through metal in seconds, its just so unnatural!

 

OH I've never used a spring compressor on my Z cars, I will jack up that car as far as it will go, disconnect the brake lines, sway bars, and stearing links, through a jack under the control are and load the spring, then slowly undo the top strut bolt, and slowly let the jack down, Ive always had the spring just plop out. Of course ive never had to put stock springs back in without a compressor as I was always doing coilovers.

 

-S