Ferd/289 Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Have not worked with studs much. I know they can take more torque and are stronger because of their inherent design. Whats the best way to install and de-install studs lets say on a head with stud mounted rockers, or engine block casting hole or use as damper installer? Do you just hold them in the middle with vice grips or what. How do you arrive at the right torque? Any advice would help. Ferd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 I've not a lot of experience on studs, but I believe it is important NOT to torque the stud down (bottomed out hard) into what ever they are being installed in. Is this correct.....anybody? The rocker stud would torque down like any other fastener of it's size being it has a flange or hex area to stop it from bottoming out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 Clean the holes out completely so the stud will screw in cleanly to the bottom. If the hole is blind then put moly lube (for most applications) or locktite on the threads and screw them in finger tight. If the hole goes into a water jacket you must use a sealer instead of grease or locktite. Put your head on then coat the washer and nut and exposed threads with moly lube and torque it down. Most stud kits come with complete instructions and lube. Sealer and locktite you gotta provide. I use the moly lube from ARP and their stud kits. If you use locktite you must torque to completion before it sets up. The torque amount is reduced a bit when using moly. My heads usually go a 75 to 80 lbs, but with the moly you hit them at 65 lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 81na ZX Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 ARP usually use an allen head on the top - atleast thats the way they are on all the ones I've seen. without putting 2 nuts on it, you end up tearing out the top of the studs before you get alot of torque on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Magnum Rockwilder Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 You can also put two nuts on the threads, tighten them against each other, and use a ratchet to reach the desired torque, then remove the double-nut setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted January 8, 2005 Share Posted January 8, 2005 the only studs that are mentioned in this thread that are torqued are rocker arm studs. Head studs are not torqued, screw them in finger tight. The other guys are right about sealer. Moly is the way to go, but not imperative. Some aluminum head manufacturers call for 65lb-ft torque due to expansion qualities of aluminum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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