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Looking for help...200r4


Guest Andrew240z

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Guest Andrew240z

Well, after reading through about two hours worth of posts (search is the best thing since sliced bread!) I've decided to purchase a 2004R. I will be mating it to a crate 350, which I'm looking to get an honest 350HP from. Can somebody direct me to what years of cars I can look at for donors, or whom I should contact to purchase said tranny?

 

I would be willing to acquire one that is not too pricey. Although, right now, I'm not sure exactly what my type of trans/convertor combo will cost me..

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Guest Magnum Rockwilder

Try Lou at Mad Dog Transmission in Tarpon Springs, FL. Their number is 727-943-7742. You should be able to find someone near you with the ability to set one up properly. You can buy them on Ebay for pretty cheap.

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Guest Magnum Rockwilder

Mine's edited, too, so no one will ever know if you delete your last post, lol.

 

Checl Ebay out and you'll find tons of 2004r stuff. You also need to search under 200r4 because MANY people get it mixed up.

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Check out bowtie overdrives. If you get a JY tranny, you will likely have to have it rebuilt anyways. I got one out of a late 80s Buick regal (or similar sedan).The Turbo-Hydramatic 200-4R was introduced in 1982 General Motors rear wheel drive, overdrive vehicles. Used primarily in Buick, Olds, Pontiac and Cadillac models, they also appeared in some Chevrolet models. This was made possible by a multiple bellhousing bolt pattern found on some of the cases that allowed the 200-4R to be bolted to Chevrolet's specific bolt pattern. The picture above shows such a case.

 

http://www.2004r.com

Tim

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Guest Andrew240z

Tim, I was looking at the bowtieoverdrive.com stage 2 2004r last night, and I think that it would work for what I am wanting to use it for. My only other question is, how hard _is_ the TV cable to get adjusted properly? It looks like it might be a nightmare in disguise.

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The consensus pretty much points to yes.

 

My research:

it's lighter

it has a higher 4th

it has a higher 1st

it has closer ratios

it's slightly cheaper

it can be built to handle the same horsepower

it has some extra features like detent shift.

 

the most important feature is 1-2 shift and higher 1st.

 

If anyone has a similar list why 700r4 is better, please enlighten us.

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Guest Magnum Rockwilder

2004r's are bulletproof when you throw enough trick parts at them.

 

People are using them in 2 ton pro street drag cars.

 

They are commonly used in ridiculously fast Grand Nationals making umpteen horsepower.

 

They're lighter and shorter than a 700r4.

 

There are just as many aftermarket parts for them.

 

They have a taller first gear, which is good for high HP cars.

 

If you blow your 2004r, you can swap in a TH350 without fooling with the driveshaft.

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Guest Slvrhase

They also fit with less modification than what I have heard the 700r4 takes. I'm running one out of an 86 olds station wagon. I like it because of the fit and it cruises well. Easy to rebuild, also, at least it seemed easy to me. I was even able to use a stock Z auto shifter modified a little and the stock Z shifter rod and tranny selector arm. In my opinion it seems to be the easiest fit of all the trans options, from what I've read. I'm running about 320hp through it and yet to have a problem.

 

Chuck.

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If a person plans on running Big Horsepower and slicks he will need those trick parts, and they are not inexpensive. These trannys do break when abused or old... check this out:

 

http://turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=144935

 

The wide alto red band, a GN or larger servo and a shift kit are pretty basic to any decent rebuild... very few of these trannys had performance calibration from the factory. The later versions (about 87 on?) had some better parts as GM learned the weaknesses. There are other things, but I can't recall them off the top of my head. (There was a post on Turbobuick on what was needed to run 12's, which sounds more like what you are interested in-- happy searching).

 

For big power/racing, see the sticky on strengthening at turbobuick. For expert rebuilders see the sticky on who's who on the same board.

 

The 200R4 did fairly well behind mild 305s and the like, but even then they broke. My father in law's mid sized Chevy wagon made it about 200K, another relatives Caddy died as in the above referenced post, but I don't know what the mileage was.

 

Do I like them? My restalled D5 converter is on order. The car will run someday.

 

(This really should have been in the drivetrain forum)

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I use a 200-4R and love it for its light weight, gear ratios, OD and lockup, but they are not bullet-proof, no matter how much money you throw at them. However, you need to put it in perspective, because when you read about turbo Buicks, keep in mind those cars are in excess of 3800lbs and trying to push 600+rwhp. Closer to your situation, my Z weighed in 2750lbs w/me and had about 520rwhp and I wailed on it hard with a t-brake and QTPs (see sig). More important than the 520 rwhp was the 600+lb/ft of torque at lower RPMs and flashing the converter to about 4800RPMs :eek:.

 

With that kind of abuse, I had breakage and many frustrating problems. The breakage was the front pump (twice, surprise!!) and the other issues were with the governor spring popping off and the converter (no fault of tranny). Now, a 350hp crate NA will probably have, lets say 350lb/ft of torque and you will probably use a 22-2400 stall converter. My tranny is a BRF code for the 3.8L turbo (you probably want to look for a BRx coded tranny) and with the things that A.G. said, you should be fine. As A.G. also said, find a D5 converter which is a stock 3.8L turbo with about a 23-2400 stall and also figure out how to wire up the lockup.

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