jtmny1999 Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 Anyone please help I can't get my alternator to charge the battery on my 240z. This is the way I connected it, there are 3 wires the fat one from the alternator on the bolt goes directly to my battery +. The connector that has a medium and thin one, the medium one goes to bat + the thin one goes where? I tried puttin the thin wire on to positive, but still wont charge. I also tried puttin a bulb (thin) on positive and grounding it the bulb it stays on but wont charge please help. Or is my alternator no good? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 What instructions did you follow? Here is a procedure I came up several years ago: Converting a 240Z to an internal regulator alternator Because I don't like to give instructions without some explanation of what you are doing (it makes troubleshooting easier), I will start by describing the internally regulated alternator's electrical connections: An "L" connection which goes to a "switched" 12V supply. By this I mean a 12V source that is active only when the ignition switch is in the ON position. I use the mnemonic "L" for "lamp", the alternator warning lamp (if used) is in series with this connection. This terminal also supplies the "excitation" current to the alternator field winding at engine turn on, allowing the alternator to begin producing voltage as the engine is ramping up to idle speed. Once the alternator rotor is turning fast enough, it generates it's own supply for the field winding and the current in the "L" connection stops flowing. The warning lamp (if used) goes out. However, if the L connection is connected directly to 12V supply, when you attempt to turn the engine off, the alternator will supply power to the switched 12V loads and the engine will continuing to run even you turn the key to the OFF position! To prevent this from occurring an electronic component called a diode will be used. Obtain a 1N5062 (or equivalent) diode from your local electronics supply company. A diode has two leads, an anode lead and a cathode lead. The cathode lead is identified by a band near that lead. Diodes will only allow current to flow in one direction. We will connect the diode so that only the excitation current will flow into the alternator's L connection. An "S" connection which goes as close to the positive terminal of the battery as physically possible. The "S" connection "senses" the battery voltage and this is the voltage that the regulator is tying to control. This connection has a high impedance, so it only draws only micro amps from the battery, so it can be left connected without fear of battery discharging. The "L" and "S" connections are in the plug connector on the rear of the alternator that looks like the capital letter "T". The top of the "T" is the "S", and the other part of the "T" is the "L". An "A" terminal, which is the output of the alternator, which also is connected to the positive terminal of the battery. This connector carries the charging current. Because of the high currents this wire must carry, it is a low gauge wire, which means it has a large cross sectional area. For safety reasons, a fusible link should be in series with this connector. The "A" terminal is the insulated threaded stud on the rear of the alternator. Of course, someone may ask: "Why do you need two separate (the "S" and the "A") connections between the battery and alternator?". It is because of the fact that even large wires have some resistance, and therefore there will be a voltage drop between the alternator and the battery when the battery is being charged. If the regulator sensed the alternator output (which is higher in voltage) and not the battery terminal, the result would be undercharging of the battery. Now there are alternators which work this way, but they need a fairly large diameter charging wire to reduce the voltage drop. The separate "S" connection is a much better method of regulation. BTW, There is a "P" terminal on the 280ZX turbo alternator (but I have also seen it on a few of the non-turbo 280ZX alternators). There is not a corresponding connector on the engine harness to mate with the "P" terminal, even on the turbo 280ZX's. So, the "P" terminal is not used/needed. Finally, there is a ground connection on the alternator, although the case is a pretty good ground connection to the engine block. Procedure Now, the following procedure only applies to the 240Z. The 260Z has electrical connections between the regulator and the interlock module and the electric fuel pump, so it's more difficult to convert to an internally regulated alternator. 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Unplug the external regulator and note the color code of the wires that are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. You will be connecting some of these wires together, so get another plug from a junked regulator or cut the one off your old regulator. Now the wire colors I will be referring to are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. This is because although the regulator wire colors match the engine harness with the stock regulator, I've noticed that some aftermarket regulators have a different wire color code. 3. Connect the white wire to the yellow wire. This connects the battery to the "S" input. 4. Connect the anode of the diode to the black with a white stripe wire and the cathode of the diode to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V supply through the diode preventing reverse current from flowing. 5. Disconnect and unbolt your old alternator. Bolt up the new alternator. Depending on what particular internally regulated alternator you use (I've seen different pulley sizes), you might need a different length belt. 6. At the alternator, connect the white with red stripe wire of the engine wiring harness to the threaded stud (the "A" terminal) on the alternator. This connection provides the charging current for the battery. Connect the black ground wire to the alternator. Don't forget to include any bypass, or filter capacitor. Plug the two-pin "T" connector into the alternator. 7. Re-connect the battery and start the engine. With a good digital voltmeter measure the voltage directly across the battery terminals. This is the charging voltage. It should be 14.7V +/- 0.3V, but this voltage is a function of the ambient temperature and the state of charge of the battery. If the voltage reading is not correct, then re-check your wiring. More than 15.0V indicates that the "S" connection may not be connected correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COZY Z COLE Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 zcarnut...I see your procedure is at the bottom of one of this sites car tips. Very good write up. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html LARRY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZ-E Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 That is a good write up but if your going to use that, you might as well upgrade to the maxima alternator and have 95 amps. Seems the better option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 That is a good write up but if your going to use that' date=' you might as well upgrade to the maxima alternator and have 95 amps. Seems the better option.[/quote'] The above procedure is the same for the Maxima alternator (in fact I came up with the procedure in order to use the much higher rated Maxima alternator). The Maxima alternator has the same "S" and "L" terminals--it just uses a different type of electrical harness connector. When viewing the Maxima connector on the alternator with the key on top the S terminal connection is on the left side and the L terminal is on the right. In general: “A” is connected to the battery positive terminal through a heavy gauge wire “S” is connected to the battery positive terminal through a smaller gauge wire “L” is connected to a +12V switched (IGN) source through the diode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmny1999 Posted January 21, 2005 Author Share Posted January 21, 2005 thanks thats alot of help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted February 1, 2010 Share Posted February 1, 2010 can someone explain this with wire colors? i have a 83 turbo in my 240z with the alternator from the 83. . . what do i do?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daphur280 Posted February 2, 2010 Share Posted February 2, 2010 nevermind I'm an idiot i read further and figured it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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