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Where to go from here (chasis stiffening)


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OK, so I got bit by the "while I'm at it bug" a few years back, and now this is where I'm at: showphoto.php?photo=1378

 

This car is going to have GC camber plates / coilovers with stiffer than stock springs, fat swaybars, and a mighty powerful engine (right Joel? :wink: ) It will primarily be a street car, with the speed and handling to match its good looks.

 

I'm looking for opinions on what I should do at this point; specifically with regard to stiffening the chasis.

 

The car had a minimum amount of rust. Everything is pretty solid. What was rusted has been cut out and I'm in the process of bringing it back to the factory level with minimum patching. To keep it from rusting more, I have cut 7/8in holes in the ends of all the frame rails and will spray POR15 in there. (You can see some of my handywork in the lower radiator support in the pic. It was surprisingly rusty in there.)

 

Anyway, I'd like to get the car on the road soon but, while I'm at it...

 

My thoughts from reading this list are that a roll cage is probably overkill and too much effort for a street car. What about a roll bar?

 

Seam welding seems :-D to be pretty common, but what about subsequent (god forbid) repairs. How long does it generally take to seam weld a car?

 

I have also thought about just putting subframe connectors and gusseting the doors (ala convertable kits). But have no idea how much benifit that will add.

 

Anyway, just trolling for opinions.

Thanks,

Sam

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Sam280Z,

In looking at the picture of the shell on the rotisserie, it looks like the sub frame connectors are not carried all the back to the rear subframe (at least on the outside). You might want to extend them up that rear slant into the rear main supporting frame.

Did you pain the interior also? Did you strip the whole car to metal, or just scuff the original paint? So you know how much PPg DP Primer you used? I wish my car was to that point already...

Joshua

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I noticed your pic of the header collector....I installed the same crankcase evac tube in my collector....

 

I got 2 of the check valves in the kit...I had to replace the first one mounted like yours after only a few thousand miles....I added thinwall tubing and some flare adaptors to place the check valve up high away from heat....The second valve has lasted for 5000 miles soo far and has no signs of quitting.

 

I am insterested in how you intend to plumb your evac system... I am on generation 2 and I need to move on to gen 3 plumbing.

 

I am currently using the original "flow control valve" mounted on the left inner fender of my 240Z....this valve is a 2 stage relief valve for crankcase vacume.

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There are no subframe connectors on the car right now.

I'm looking to see what the best / easiest method of chasis stiffening I should do if anything really needs to be done...

 

BTW, the engine I'm putting in is Joel's old monster stroker turbo.

 

bjhines, I will respond to your other thread...

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98811

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sorry Jolane. I missed some of your questions.

 

I haven't painted the interior yet. It is completely stripped. I carefully sanded the old respray off untill I got into the good factory paint. The amount of paint required will depend on the gun you are using. I think I used a quart for the top and a quart or so on the bottom.

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