crackhouse Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 I did a search, but didn't come up with anything. My rear panel is in very bad shape. I'm planning on cutting it out and building a new one out of sheet metal, but I wanted to see if anyone else has done this and how they did it. My plan was to cut a piece of sheet metal out the length and width I needed, then cut templates out for the curve you see when you're looking at the car from the side and tack those on to give the panel it's curved shape. I've tried bending the panel and I can't get the right bend to save my life. Any ideas would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-TARD Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 If the steel is thick enough, I'm thinking 18 gauge, you might be able to get away with tack welding the templates to the backside of it. You might still end up with the templates "printing" through to the other side though, looking like the ribs on a really skinny dog. Your best bet would be to find someone that has a roller big enough to roll the width you need. If that fails, you can build one out of steel plate and some pipe. Fiberglass is another option as well, but that opens up a whole new can of worms as far as construction techniques. Yet another option would be to check Ebay, there are a lot of vendors selling roll pans for trucks and hot rods on there. Some of those could probably be adapted for use on a Z. Hope this helps, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 I have to go in a minit (lunch is almost over) but I built my rear roll pan out of a piece of "door bottom repair" patch panel I found at the local auto parts store. I have some pics taken along the way, and finished. I'll try to give you a run down and post some pics later this afternoon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest crazycustom240z Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Im in the middle of doing this myself. Get some 3/8 inch steel rod build a frame with the steel rod with all the necessarry curves and so forth.then you can lay the sheet metal over it and tack it from behind. use poster board over the little frame you construct to get a good pattern to cut out of your sheet metal. When you are welding the new one in place work top to bottom and from the middle out. Hope that helps ya. On my z I'm making the whole rear panel flush then I picked up some 4in circular leds at a trade show that I'm gonna reccess into to my rear panel. I got some ideas for taking the leds apart and wiring a 4 position switch off the brake pedal so the harder I hit my brakes the more of the taillight will light up. jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 I had to do this for my Z as well. The rear valance (roll pan) is a compound curve piece. I can't simply be bent from one piece of metal unless you stretch the metal like they do from the factory. Mine is actually made of four pieces that are welded together then ground and finished with a little filler. If you have a buddy with a nice straight rear valance you can make patterns off it using sturdy paper like grocery bags. This works well because the bags can't be formed into compound curves either. You simply tape on the biggest piece that doesn't have a fold or crease in it then keep adding pieces untill the panel is covered. Where each piece meets another is your weld seem. You should be able to do it in no more than four pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest crazycustom240z Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Dan, That looks sharp. I'm liking the exhaust. jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 I too am replacing my roll pan. Mine was torn up also, and the whole thing needs to be replaced. The approach I am taking though is a transplant from a good car. I found one in the JY that was good, and took my cordless sawzall with me. It took two trips (4 batteries worth) and some very long blades but I cut the back of the car off. I have since cut all of the structure away from the donar, so all I have it the skin. Hopefully this coming weekend I will cut into my car and make the transplant. I woudl be very interested in seeing pictures of how other people have fixed this area. I wish someone made a replacement panel for it! I guess you could always get a body kit with the right rear panel to replace it with, but I like the stock look on the back. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBC_400 Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 find someone with an english wheel or get one yourself and learn how to use it. it is an invalulalbel tool. and the roll pan would not be hard to make, it has a simple gradual curve. it also makes patching curved areas a much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Well, here's how bad mine was when I got it.. yes, thats almost ALL bondo, over a thin skin of rust... I actually riped it off the car with my bare hands... and what was left to work with... a gaping hole... You can see where I did a few patches on the sides/quarter panels first.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 and how it looked half way through.. (sorry, I seam to have lost the pics betwen te 'gaping hole' and here, which is almost finished..) I didn't want a 'line' right from the tail lights to the roll pan, and decided to build it so it had the ilisuon of a molded bumper, hence the little radius out from under the tail lights. I hand formed and welded 3 pieces to make that first, and left some to rivet the roll pan to. I than got a piece of metal (ment for door bottom repair) that has a nice straight 'lip' bent on one edge, (about 45 degrees.. I guess you wrap it around the door bottom and pinch/weld it.. ?) and cut it to roughly the lenght I needed. I riveted it on in the middle first, and slowly worked my way out towards either side, bending it slightly as I went. By the time I got to the ends, it had a nice subtle curve to it side to side, and a gentle 'arc' along the bottom. (Im not an expert but I figure the bent lip helped to keep the piece from deforming too much as I bent it around) I cut/trumed it at the ends, and smothed it in with fiberglass and a thin coat of bondo/filler to smooth it all out. Here's how it turned out aftre the car was painted.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 I used some posterboard to make the template, then transfered it to sheetmetal. I used a piece of 4 inch pipe to 'roll' the sheetmetal to the correct shape. Mine differs from yours in that I replaced the whole tail section. panel before welding on Panel tacked in place Final product Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest crazycustom240z Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 TIm, Gotta ask did you shave the rain gutters along the top window yourself? I'm curious because I cut mine off but welding up the seem with my mig aint working out to well. I have used some gel that are sprayed on the metal to keep surrounding areas from warping but it looks like I'm gonna have to save up and finally by a TIG welder. Any help help would be grateful. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 I welded mine with my MIG. I didn't even have the gas shielding at the time, just used flux core, so that made it a little more difficult. All you have to do is be patient. Do about 1/2 inch at a time at opposing ends of the roofline to avoid too much warping... TIm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Crazycustom, Although I have not shaved my drip rails, I have welded a lot on my body patching this, repairing that, etc. I have used a MIG until this past weekend, when I use my TIG. The MIG is much easier in terms of actual welding, but does require more grinding to get it cleaned up. The TIG is great for close fitting parts, but a real pain if there are gaps. I recommend using a MIG with .023 wire and C25. The way I did my patch panel and the quarter panel was butt weld the pieces using 100's of small tacks laid on top of each other. Be sure to tack all along the seems, start at both ends and work around to keep the metal from getting hot and warping. It will work, just go very slowly and have patience. If you use flux core, you will have to clean the welds each time before putting another weld on top. I would not personally use short welds, just due to heat. I would rather the job take 20 minutes longer and be straight than risk any warpage. I hope this helps. You don't really need a TIG for body work (just easier to grind and work with a hammer and dolly really, but fitup is very critical!) Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest crazycustom240z Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Thanks for the tips guys. I'm gonna go get some smaller wire .023 and give that a shot. I think I still wanna get a tig cause they're fun to use. I'm thinkin about the Miller Tigmate cause its 1200 bucks a good beggining unit and it will weld all metals. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Crazycustom, I agree about TIG being fun. I just got my Dynasty 200DX up and running last week. I had never TIG welded before, and thoroughly enjoy it. It definitely takes practice though, but I think I have steel down very well now. Now on to aluminum... As for the TIG mate, I don't know what your budget is, but the Thermal Arc 185 (T/A 185) has gotten excellent reviews. It is ~$1680 complete with everything from AAAweldingsupply.com. They have also gotten great reviews. The machine is very portable, and draws little current even at maximum output. I have Miller's version and feel that the small size is wonderful for my garage. I know it costs more than the Tig mate, but you probably won't outgrow its capabilities, especially for auto work. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 I noticed that MSA has a replacement rear lower valance panel to replace damaged ones. I did not know this, and only found it while browsing. It is pricey though, but may be well worth the cost compared to fabricating one from scratch ($250)! They also have the panel that goes around the hatch latch area! I wish I had known that a week ago, since I just fabricated half of mine that was rusted through, and was planing on doing the other half this weekend! Always a day late I guess. It is also kind of expensive at $131. At least it would look right and make everything new again! Just though I would let you know. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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