cygnusx1 Posted March 10, 2005 Share Posted March 10, 2005 I made these in between boring meetings at work. I snuck to the machine shop regularly and milled away lots of stainless chips. Sorry Ross, but I now realize how much of a value the modern-motorsports adapters are. Whew what alot of work for a rookie machinist like myself! I will insert 10mm studs to bolt these to the stub axle flange of my 76Z and then use 8mm bolts to fasten the outboard end of the 280ZX CV shafts to the other side of the adapter. You think they are strong enough!! LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 They look nice from this angle . Are they recessed on the other side for the companion flange? Thats the part I would be concerned of if not... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted March 11, 2005 Author Share Posted March 11, 2005 I didn't put any recess in them. I figured the four 10mm bolts should be able to handle the shear. I am using the highest grade metric bolts. Is there a fitment reason that there should be a recess or would it be for positioning and torque transfer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 You know, I'm just going off what the masses have done. If you think about it though, thats the way most oem set ups are, but I'll let the folks that understand sheer loads chime in on this, as I'm a lame when it comes to that.... oopps, I ment to say layman..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 I wonder about this as well. My driveshaft adapter is just like this in that the entire torque is transfered by the friction of tow tightly mated flat surfaces between the adapter and the propeller flange (and mine is made out of 1/2" aluminum, not SS). Nothing has twisted in two as yet, and that was 14 years ago. A recess to make it "hubcentric" though would be nice. Anything lighter, like aluminum available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 While the four bolts should handle the torque (shear loads), since after all they can certainly hold with the original axles, I think the issue you might have is making sure everything runs true and the assembly is balanced. I don't think that the 4 bolts will not align your adapters with the stub axles. You could always true this using a dial indicator after installation, and tap them into place before final tightening, but I am not sure how well this would hold after accel and decel loads run through the setup. This is my take on it. It may not be a problem, who knows? Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted March 11, 2005 Author Share Posted March 11, 2005 They were all dial indicated to +- 0.0005 before when they were drilled. Also I think an axle, and wheel, only spin about 100 RPM or so on the highway. Being that small diameter, and centered within five thousands of an inch after mounting, spinning only at 100 RPM, I doubt there will be any issues with vibration or wobble. I will check with my dial indicator after mounting them..good idea. I thought about making them out of aluminum but I was afraid that the threads would not hold tight in the aluminum after repeated loading. In stainless steel, they will outlast my car. I also thought about lightening them by removing material where it s not needed but I am not going into competition so I didn't bother. Now I just hope my swaybar can stay. We will see in the coming days as I tear into the drivetrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted March 11, 2005 Share Posted March 11, 2005 Well, actually at 60 MPH with a 26" tall tire, that is 775 RPM. I am not sure how important perfect balance is, but would assume that it could create a good vibration, in a place where you really don't want it. I would just make sure to check your runout after installation. BTW, the machining looks great! Nice Work on that! Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted March 11, 2005 Author Share Posted March 11, 2005 Oh yeah sorry I remember doing the calculation a while back...I calculated about 900 Rpm for my car at 100mph. For some reason my mind remembered 90 instead of 900. Still, at that small of a diameter balance should not be much of an issue. I will however, dial indicate it before I final torque the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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