fredtam Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 1. What is the best way to clean the build-up off the pistons while still in the block? Problem is similar to 280zedx's seen here: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v186/280zedx/piston6.jpg Someone mentioned sanding. Is this the best way? What is going to cause the least scarring to the pistons? 2. Rocker arms. I took my head off today and getting the rocker arms off was a PITA No way to really get a compressor on the springs and the suggested "screwdriver between the cam and spring" wasn't very effective. Now I'm worried about putting them back on and wondering if there is some ancient Z master technique to doing so. Seems easy enough. Just push it under the cam lobe and pop it on the pivot but I thought removing them would be simple too but couldn't compress the springs. Well it was simple but I'm just hoping I didn't bend them doing it the easy way. <----n00b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 1. I'm not sure as I haven't done that... 2. The easiest way is to use the Nissan tool to compress the valve springs, but they are expensive and nearly impossible to find (bought mine on Ebay a couple of years ago for $75 used...but worth every penny!!). The second easiest way is to install them on the head while the head is off the car using the big c-clamp looking spring compressor and then the last resort is the 'big ole screwdriver' technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DoTheDrew888 Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 WD-40 and a decent brush will take the carbon off pretty fast. I've never cleaned them still in the block but out of the block thats what I use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 1. What is the best way to clean the build-up off the pistons while still in the block? Problem is similar to 280zedx's seen here:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v186/280zedx/piston6.jpg Someone mentioned sanding. Is this the best way? What is going to cause the least scarring to the pistons? 2. Rocker arms. I took my head off today and getting the rocker arms off was a PITA No way to really get a compressor on the springs and the suggested "screwdriver between the cam and spring" wasn't very effective. Now I'm worried about putting them back on and wondering if there is some ancient Z master technique to doing so. Seems easy enough. Just push it under the cam lobe and pop it on the pivot but I thought removing them would be simple too but couldn't compress the springs. Well it was simple but I'm just hoping I didn't bend them doing it the easy way. 1 has been answered. 2. Did you back off the lash adjusters before you pried the rocker arms off? Did you rotate the cam so that the lobe pointed up before you pried the rocker? Kinda doesn't sound like you did either. If you do back them off and move the cam so that it isn't compressing the spring then it isn't that bad to pry them on or off. If you don't then you really have to compress the valve spring before they'll move, and if it's already compressed because the lobe is facing down, then it's going to be a bitch. I had to do this a couple times while adjusting lash pads, and it really wasn't that bad. Sounds like you just missed a step in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 I've popped rocker arms off many, many times and never thought there was any big deal to it. I didn't use a screwdriver but instead used a prybar. the prybar looks like this: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=13062&R=13062 I can't remember now, but I think I might have stuck two prybars in there just so I had better leverage. Oh.. and no I never had to adjust the backlash first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredtam Posted March 16, 2005 Author Share Posted March 16, 2005 jmortensen, yes the pivot nut was turned down an the cam was turned so that the lobe was up on each rocker arm being removed. This of course still requires that the spring be compressed to get it completely off the pivot. That was the problem. My spring compressors won't fit and the screw driver just kept slipping. I ended up taking a 14mm wrench wedged between the locknut and the arm and popping them off from the back using the arm itself to compress the spring. Obviously this won't cut it in reverse.Maybe it will be easier on the clean oil free head with a pry bar. We'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 Hmm. I seem to remember only having to compress the valve springs 1/8" or so on mine, which wasn't that bad even with the aftermarket springs. Not sure why there would be a difference. Good luck putting it back together though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 I'm sure you'll do fine if you get your hands on a prybar like in the link. Problem with a screwdriver is that most of them are too small and they usually have a shaft that is round. The prybar's shaft is square and alot less likely to slip off the top of the valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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