savageskaterkid Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 Well, i got the Corvette Ignition control, after playing with the wiring for awhile, it fired up and idled pretty good. Well, im halfway down 301-(its kinda like a highway) and it dies at a stoplight, and wouldn't start back up, so i revved the hell out of it, and put it in drive, and took off, i had to keep doin this over and over till i got home. It wasn't too bad, untill it died while cruising, so i put it in nuetral and started it, revved it up, and put it in reverse(i dont have the gear selector panel installed) yah, well, i hit reverse....imagine a 280zx going sideways on a highway, so i slammed it back into nuetral and then into drive. I had to do like a 20 minut drive, then about 5 minuts from home my REV HIGH, THEN DRIVE trick stopped working, so i had to push it into a church parking lot-wich is WAY BETTER then being in the middle of richmond in a school parking lot. Well, i popped the hood, and coolant sprayed everywhere, it was puddled next to the number 3 and 4 injectors. Which brings me to my next question, could coolant have shorted out my number 3 and 4 injectors and keep them from firing, wich is y my car won't stay running unless its revved past 2000? Do you think that i can just clean up the connections and get them to work after it cools down, or do u think i fried my injectors? GIVE IT TO ME STRAIGHT, I WANNA KNOW THE TRUTH Thanx guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 4, 2005 Author Share Posted April 4, 2005 well, i went to see my car tday, and i checked everything out, everything was dry, so i tryed to start it, and it fired rite up. Drove about halfway home and the thing died at a stoplight(about 2 miles from where i was, and about 2 miles from where i needed to -i got it to the foodlion parking lot, and popped the hood. my injectors had coolant on them again........but my talking lady said that i was low on coolant cuz it spewed it all out last nite-and i looked to see where it fired from, the reserve was dry again, like it always is when i look in there, and the underside of the hood was dry, wich means it didn't fire coolant anywhere, i didn't see any visible coolant leaks, wht do u guys think happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted April 4, 2005 Share Posted April 4, 2005 I would check your thermostat housing, and see if it is leaking. If it is, maybe when the coolant gets hot, it starts flowing, and leaking. Just maybe this leak is getting your ignition module wet/hot, causing it to shut down and quit working. This seems like a long short, but you never know. Take a good look at all the connections around that area. I would get some engine degreaser and clean the whole engine well so you can see where you have a leak, if any. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted April 5, 2005 Share Posted April 5, 2005 ugh... I did that once, hitting reverse while going forward at about 35mph in my old Camaro.... my tranny lasted about 1 month after that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 5, 2005 Author Share Posted April 5, 2005 I would check your thermostat housing' date=' and see if it is leaking. If it is, maybe when the coolant gets hot, it starts flowing, and leaking. Just maybe this leak is getting your ignition module wet/hot, causing it to shut down and quit working. This seems like a long short, but you never know. Take a good look at all the connections around that area.I would get some engine degreaser and clean the whole engine well so you can see where you have a leak, if any. Joshua[/quote'] makes sence, but if i revv it up, it will stay running....doesn't seem like my module got wet at all, just the injectors. I finnally got it home tday, and it did the same thing just as i pulled onto my street, had to revv it up and hit drive again-put a nice burnout for the kids getting off the bus..one girl said that i stalled it- i said "nope, its an automatic, i turned it off, and then dropped it for the burnout" she said "ooohhhh"-she doesn't think an auto can stall, HAHAHAHAHAH O yah, after doin all that revv and drive stuff, my tranny is leaking quite a bit, DAMNIT Hey Mike Kelly, i was wondering, when is your next AMSOIL stop, if u get a chance, could u stop by my place and see wht the problem mite b? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted April 5, 2005 Share Posted April 5, 2005 lol... wow.. those bring back the days.. I used to have a 95 Ford Taurus SHO. Ford never ceases to amaze me with their stupidity in electronics. Rock solid engine from yamahaa.. and a shitty electronic system from Ford. I eventually found out the car had a leaky waterpump at temp... the minute leak would slide down the case onto the TPS sensor below, eventually the coolant would heat up the sensor and the car would die out. Then you had to wait 20 min.. start the thing... throgh it in drive real quick and see how far down the road you get before you had to put it in neutral.. start it.. put in drive and mash the gas and coast again. lol yeah... after driving that car I can drive anything. Best of luck with the problem, check your bypass hose, it might have a small crack in it spraying on your injectors. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 6, 2005 Author Share Posted April 6, 2005 im quite scared of the fact that i may have a leaking BLOCK(i sure hope not) Actually, thats about wht happened to mine, coolant puddled up, and once it got hot, it would boil and smoke pours out the engine, and it boils next to the injectors......so i guess it steamed my injector connections? Well, all i hafta say about these engine, and soon to b tranny problems........RB25DET-HERE I COME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 No Offense, but it seems easier to fix the L28 than swap a complete RB and get it running correctly. The L28 is a rather simple engine to work on despite that messly looking EFI. Your problem can't be that hard to fix either, although I do admit, it can test your patience sometimes. Good Luck, Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 6, 2005 Author Share Posted April 6, 2005 i know this as a fact, but i've been thinkin RB for quite awhile, and this was the thing that made the chubby for an RB that much bigger.....i plan on fixing the L28 anyway, but soon after im goin RB, probly start this summer. The L28 does test your patience quite a bit, i agree with that, i've had ALL the common and uncommon L28 problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 I guess I meant that any engine can test your patience...regardless of what and where. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted April 6, 2005 Share Posted April 6, 2005 Oh, another thought about your problem. Did you end up using an HEI module instead of the black box? If so, it MUST be heat sunk into a piece of metal, preferably aluminum plate. Otehrwise, those will overheat during use, causing lose of spark, and possibly causing your problems. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 6, 2005 Author Share Posted April 6, 2005 i have it bolted up already.....i think my problem was, my reserve overflowed, and it ended up soaking my injectors, so i had coolant puddled up next to the injectors, so when the engine heated up-it boiled the coolant, and steamed up and shorted the injector wires-but its running fine now, im idleing it as we speak to make sure it won't happen again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 well, i ruled out that thought, it ran great, i let it idle for like 20-30 minuts, and it was doin great, then i was about to get in the car....and it died. I have my new Ignition box mounted on a piece of metal, actually, its mounted where the old box was-on the distributor. What do u mean Heat Sunk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 The HEI module (is that what you are using?) is heat sunk to the distributor when installed in a Chevy distributor. You even have to use thermal grease under the pad (between the module and the distributor housing) to aide in cooling. If it was my car, I would mount the HEI module to a 1/4" thick aluminum plate ~2"x4", using thermal grease. The bigger the plate, the better. I would also figure out how to seal it from moisture, and mount it to the inner fender well, up front, by the MAF sensor (away from the exhaust manifold and radiator heat). A little airflow would not hurt. I had an 83 280ZX that ran after washing the engine bay. Yes, the injectors and wiring got wet. The only problem I had was that the engine would not rev past 2K until the MAF sensor dried out. I really don't think that your injectors are causing the problem, as the problem would probably manifest itself as a miss or rough idle first. If it runs fine, then dies all of a sudden, it seems to me something is overheating. Although seemingly unlikely, it could also be the coil (broken winding that separates after it warms up). My brother had a bad MSD Blaster coil (only a few months only) that would do this. Drove him nuts until he put the stock coil back in...no problems after that. Do you have good oil pressure? What happens when the engine dies? Does it just stop, or does it start sputtering, jerking, etc before dieing? Any visible "smoke" from the exhaust while running? If so, what color? Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 Well, it just idles low for a split second, then dies, start it up-idles for a quarter second, then dies-if i hit the gas, and hold a revv about 2K, then it will stay running. Oil pressure is great, no smoke from exhaust. I used dielectric-grease inbetween the dizzy and the module. Yes it is the HEI. The coil mite make a bit of sence, im not running the stock coil, i thought i lost it, but its actually in my backseat, im gonna reinstall it afterschool tommorrow, im using a 1969 Firebird coil that a frend gave me. Do you really think it could b the coil? i sure hope so, cuz i got one thats fairly new, and i thought it died cuz it wouldn't fire anymore(cuz of the I/C module) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted April 7, 2005 Share Posted April 7, 2005 So when you test for spark after it dies, do you have any? I think it could be a few other things also. As I said, I think the coil is unlikely, but worth a try to change if you already have one. I would also pull the cap off and check for cracks. Di-electric grease is used for protecting the connection of the wires electrically, not thermally. Did the HEI module come with a little pack of thermal paste (usually white grease)? I am not sure where you mounted the HEI module. Just make sure though that the back of the module if flat against a piece of metal, not on a curved surface where you have only a small contact patch. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 7, 2005 Author Share Posted April 7, 2005 ok, that mite b it....i think i have a small contact, would that cause spark problems when it got warm? I thought it was dielectric grease, but it just came with a clear grease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 8, 2005 Author Share Posted April 8, 2005 my car will run for awhile b4 it dies, so i felt comfortable enough to take a few runs around the corner, about 1/4 mile later, the car starts to heat up, it gets to halfway, so i still drive a bit more, then it heats up alot more, so i slow down to a stop, and after a second it went back to the halfway mark. My dad says it mite b that its an old thermastat and the spring inside is sticking, and eventually it will open-and thats y it cools down. Does this make sence to anyone else? and im still wondering about my HEI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 9, 2005 Author Share Posted April 9, 2005 Is this the heat-sink you speak of, im hopefully gonna get one tday.....so i need to know sumwht quickly/ http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=276-1368 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolane Posted April 9, 2005 Share Posted April 9, 2005 That might work, I don't really know what heat capacity you need though. I would get a piece of aluminum from Home Depot and attach the HEI module to it. Get some thermal grease from Radio Shack, put it on the back of the HEI, and screw the two together. Shouldn't cost much, and should tell you if an overheating HEI is the problem. Joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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