savageskaterkid Posted April 9, 2005 Author Share Posted April 9, 2005 thanks, i'll hopefully do this tday, and keep you guys updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 10, 2005 Author Share Posted April 10, 2005 well, i remounted the Module, its rite behind the left headlight, and its heat-sunk to a piece of aluminum, i used a buttload of the heat sink compound, it runs cool now, and it was running great, it idled fine for 20 minuts, got it upto operating temperature, then took it for a 2 mile ride, turned the car off, hung out with a frend for 10 minuts. It took a bit of gas for it to get started back up again, and then it ran fine. About 4 blocks from home, the tach started jumping-it wasn't revving or anything, but the tach kept going back up and down, and then it shut off, i started it back up easily, and then it went smooth untill i backed into my driveway, and at the very bottem of the driveway it cut off, but it started back up, and once i got it to my parking spot, it shut off on its own. I remember my tach jumped when i first mounted the module to the dizzy, cuz i had to figure out where the old wiring to the coil hooked up, and the tach would jump-then cut off, i found out where the wiring went and put it together and it ran fine. When me and my dad hooked that up, we didn't have any of the rite connectors-so we kinda rigged it up by wrapping it around the coil and tightening the nut down. Do you guys think this ghetto-rigged connection could make it so my car is cutting off? Remounting the ignition seems like it helped a whole lot. Idled for about half an hour, then took a 4 mile round trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 10, 2005 Author Share Posted April 10, 2005 I also noticed that my second gas gauge works, u know the one rite underneath the real gas gauge, it reads 1/4 tank, 1/8 tank, and so on. I have a bit less then a quarter of a tank, so i know im not out of gas, so that rules it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 11, 2005 Author Share Posted April 11, 2005 Everything is PERFECT!!!! My gas gauge wasn't working, becuz i had less then a quarter tank, i figured this out when i put sum gas in, and my top gauge worked, then after driving around-it went to a quarter, then dropped, and then my bottem gas gauge started working, is this normal? Tday i rewired the car cuz of the tach jumping, it did fine for a long time, until it died on the way home-about 2 miles from home, pulled into a nieghborhood and my coil was on fire(so damn hott)-i have a firebird coil in it, and its much slimmer then the Datsun piece-well, it put in the datsun piece, and its been running awesome since then, untill it was really hard to start(about 30 seconds of cranking)-i took off the FPR vaccum line, and it fires up easy, except that it shot alot of gas, wich was the reason i was having bad gas mileage-so i crimped the tip of the FRP vaccum line, so it wouldn't shoot anymore fuel. starts up so easy, Idles perfect(mayb jumps about 100RPM) best thing of all, the gas leak was probly the reason y my cruise control never worked, cuz after i fixed that, the cruise works now. The car doesn't overheat either, everything is PERFECT. BTW, the leak did come from that one hose that runs rite above the intake, i just tightened the clamp, and no more problems. Thanks for all the help everyone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsunlover Posted April 11, 2005 Share Posted April 11, 2005 Good to hear youre back up and running! As for the gas guage, I've seen that happen in a lot of vehicles. I think what happens is the sender float (suposed to bob up and down with the level of gas in ther tank) gets stuck, and won't read (its basicaly a potentiometer and wears over time) Sometimes all it takes is to add some gas to raise the level, therefore forcing the float to raise and 'break free'. Afterwards it'll work for a while, till it gets stuck again. My 280 does it all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted April 11, 2005 Author Share Posted April 11, 2005 Good to hear youre back up and running! As for the gas guage, I've seen that happen in a lot of vehicles. I think what happens is the sender float (suposed to bob up and down with the level of gas in ther tank) gets stuck, and won't read (its basicaly a potentiometer and wears over time) Sometimes all it takes is to add some gas to raise the level, therefore forcing the float to raise and 'break free'. Afterwards it'll work for a while, till it gets stuck again. My 280 does it all the time. Its not that it doesn't work, it does, but once it hits a 1/4 tank, it shifts over to the secondary gauge, is that normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PapaSmurf Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 That might work' date=' I don't really know what heat capacity you need though. I would get a piece of aluminum from Home Depot and attach the HEI module to it. Get some thermal grease from Radio Shack, put it on the back of the HEI, and screw the two together.Shouldn't cost much, and should tell you if an overheating HEI is the problem. Joshua[/quote'] If you want to keep things cool I'd reccomend staying away from the crappy radio shack stuff and go with some arctic silver 5 thermal paste or arctic silver thermal adhesive, the thermal adhesive is like a glue it bonds two surfaces together and does the best cooling and the arctic silver 5 does a great job in transfering heat but it does not permanently bond things together. You can find both of these on http://www.newegg.com heres the url to the adhesive http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835100005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savageskaterkid Posted May 24, 2005 Author Share Posted May 24, 2005 i've long had that problem fixed, its back on the road, or was untill my uhhhhh incident......but i just used a piece of aluminum and bought sum heat sink compound and used screws to mount it behind the headlight-doesn't get hot behind the headlight, and it doens't stall anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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