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Powder coating wheels


CruxGNZ

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Guest rick458

have any of you racers shot the Hub and lug areas with a heat probe after hard hot laps? surely brake heat bleed will be much higher than 400f

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Im curious to know more about this, any real world situations that have come up. The reason being is that i recently powdercoated my billit hubs and corvette calipers myself using the eastwood system.

 

After reding this thread I'm alittle worried and curious abuot what I should do.

 

 

-Austin

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have any of you racers shot the Hub and lug areas with a heat probe after hard hot laps? surely brake heat bleed will be much higher than 400f

 

Doubtful. I've been pit crew for an ALMS Viper and you can handle the wheels all you want if you just have a pair of Mechanics gloves on. In fact, I grabbed the centers to pull them off the hubs. If they were anywhere near 400F you wouldn't be able to handle them even with the gloves on. There's also enough airflow around the wheels that the 1,000F coming off the rotors gets cooled down very fast. Plus, if the hubs are getting over 400F then the wheel bearings are being cooked and the grease would break down quickly.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest nikko74z

I owned a small powder coating shop for a few years, we powder coated automotive and marine parts. Aluminum is not the easiest to coat due to gases escaping from the material once heated. The reps at Cardinal were the most helpful. They sell powders that cure at 275 to 300 degrees. I too shot everything hot. In 3 years, I had one coating failure on an aluminum bike frame. I currently have a set of centerlines that I coated in an "almost chrome" color. Its been two years and they still look perfect. You can even get clear coat in powder. I shot that on them as well. Clear cooks at a low temp as well. You do have to b careful not to get powder in bolt holes or flat mating surfaces. All in all, I would powder coat wheels all day long before painting them.

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