Windage trays, crank scrappers...etc ?

[rayaapp2]

Anyone have pictures of there setup?

 

I just noticed that my crank caps have provisions for a windage tray. So is anyone running one?

 

PICTURES??

[Guest tony78_280z]

I hate to piggy back in on someone elses question because my piggy backers don't get no attention. But...

 

I too am interested in this subject. Although, with a different motor. I'm wondering how much of a difference it realy makes. Is it a "go out of the way" kind of install, or is it a "wait until I got the pan off for some other purpose and then I'll get around to it" kind of install. How much HP does it free up? Are there any draw backs or side effects?

[johnc]

I haven't seen a windage tray per se on an L6. Most run the crank scraper/tray that comes with the Nissan Motorsports (DP Products) oil pan which, technically isn't a windage tray because it doesn't fully follow the crank throws. They do release some horsepower but they are installed mostly to reduce aeration of the oil. They are only effective at higher rpms and are not a must do install.

[rayaapp2]

Johnc is correct.

I am building an autoX car so I would really like the oil to drain back to the pan faster. That is my main goal.

 

Nismo supposedly makes a windage tray for this motor. I also have been thinking of clenaing the castings out of the block.

[JMortensen]

I ran autox for 6 years with a stock oil pan, about 4 of those years I was on slicks. Was there some oil starvation? Maybe, but that engine eventually came out because the damper came apart and screwed up the front of the crankshaft.

 

If you want to do something that will REALLY make a difference I think cleaning up the casting and painting the block and all that isn't the most effective thing you can do. I'd suggest a trapdoor oil pan like the Nissan Comp pan or the Arizona Z Car pan. Beyond that you might consider an Accusump system that forces oil into the system if the pressure drops.

 

I'm running the AZC pan and it works just fine. The reason I bought it was my friend spun a main bearing on a roadrace track due to oil starvation and our cars were just about the same in the corners. I think that in an autox this isn't a problem because the turns are so fast the engine doesn't have time to starve long enough to cause damage.

[katman]

Just a data point: On our race L24 ITS engines we tried a crank scraper once at Sunbelt. Lost 2 hp. However, after the tests we decided we might have had too much oil on the pan so we didn't totally blame the scraper and ran out of dyno time before we could reconfirm. To do it properly, the scraper needs to come within .030 to .050 of the reciprocating assembly and be stiff enough to hold up to the windage. Then, to mount it somewhere, oil pan or cap bolts, such that the clearance is repeatable, is no small job.

 

Sounds like a great idea but it takes a lot of time to get it right.

[Guest JAMIE T]

I'm trying to figure out what adapter I can use to put an Accusump on my RB26. I'm also looking at building a crank scraper. The motor comes with a windage tray stock.

[Guest norm[T12SDSUD]]

I just bought a new crank scraper last week. It is a slick piece. It is made from 1/8" thick steel stock and is bolted on by the seven main cap bolts. They claim to have seen a 3% HP jump on the dyno. They figure in the real world you may see closer to a 4% increase in HP. I should know once I get the engine back together, but if I change my setup I won't really know if it works or not.

 

Norm