240Z_Master Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 Anyone have the specs on these guys? I have the JUN and HKS pump specs but am in need of obtaining the specs on the N1 and Nismo (All of these are in liters per hour or something, don't quote me on that) RPM STD JUN 600 4.4 5.5 2000 15.2 19.5 6000 46.7 58.9 RPM STD HKS 600 3.7 5.0 2000 12.9 17.3 6000 39.9 53.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 maybe KG? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted May 17, 2005 Author Share Posted May 17, 2005 maybe KG? I don't believe so... still wondering about the Nismo and N1 pump specs though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 The HKS pump is the best on the market. The quality is awesome and the drive lug is extra long for reliablilty. 6000 rpm produces 53.1 liters/minute at 4kg/cm (58.8psi) of pressure. Stock is also 4 kg/cm at 6000, but will supply less volume if needed. That said.....There is no problem with the stock pump. The only difference between the stock and Nismo pump is that the Nismo rotor and scroll are hardened. This is the exact pump that Nismo uses in their engines for the Super Endurance race series. These cars are fast. I don't know the hp specs, but I've personally seen them hit over 300 km/hr in the straight at Fuji Speedway, lap after lap.....With a straight 33 or modified crank, I've never had a problem through 8000 rpm with the stock pump. I use the Nismo pump for 9000+ engines just "because" (I have engines using the stock pump that tap 9,000 once in a while with no problems to date. I'm not saying it couldn't happen, but the only pumps I've ever had break were at high rpm (7500-8000) and using the stock 32 crank. A good machine shop may be able to heat treat the gears in the stock pump. There's plenty of oil pressure up there with the stocker. The #1 cause for bearing failure in the RB26 is oil temp. With the stock cooler, a 500hp engine will hit over 220F in 1 quarter mile pass! Sustained rpm racing or pass after pass with no cool down will kill it quick. I once saw a guy pull the ATTESA fuse and go drift his GT-R (right after I told him not to do it). The engine came down with a nasty bearing knock in less than 5 minutes. I saw a video of a new, stock R32 that didn't even complete 1 lap of the Nurburgring and wasted the engine because of oil temp. A mid sized Earls type oil cooler will keep the temp in check and should be considered a mandatory upgrade. I have no Idea why Nissan didn't put one in from the factory. If you have the means, buy the HKS or JUN pump; they're good insurance, but don't abandon your project because you think you must have one. The guys running these pumps than NEED them are turning up to 13,000 rpm and making HUGE power. That's what they were designed for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 I'm getting my stock parts heat treated locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zhadman Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 I'm getting my stock parts heat treated locally. What RC are you getting them done to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted May 17, 2005 Author Share Posted May 17, 2005 I'm probably getting an oil cooler from Earl's and buying the N1 pump. Not for the primary purposes that it's an N1 pump, but mainly because its brand new, who knows what the old condition of the stock oil pump is in. Brand new N1 Pump seems to be in the right neighborhood for the right price. Nissan P/N "15010-24U01" if anyone wants it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted May 17, 2005 Share Posted May 17, 2005 Zhadman, I'm not sure. I'm going to leave that up to the people doing the work to to advise me on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zhadman Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Zhadman, I'm not sure. I'm going to leave that up to the people doing the work to to advise me on. That's cool... They should be able to pick the right range based on the function of the parts. Sometimes too high of a rockwell can make the metal a bit brittle and less able to withstand shock. I'm not so sure that the oil pump drive gears are subjected to that much shock... wear resistance I think would be the biggest benefit from heat treating. I'm not too familiar with the stock pump (haven't had mine out yet), can the gears be removed from the shaft? I'm also a bit surprised that the gears (in stock form) aren't hardened already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 They probably are hardened. I am also thinking about cryo treating them. Maybe forgo the heat treating and just do cryo? Their is no shaft on the oil pump, the crank is the shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zhadman Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Their is no shaft on the oil pump, the crank is the shaft. Jamie, I see. I haven't had mine out yet... so I was a bit unsure. Cryo treating would definately improve the wear resistant properties of the part but it's not a true replacement for heat treating (i.e. You won't really increase the material hardness). I have to assume that the stock component is heat treated. You could, however, have the part tested to determine the actual Rockwell. It's an 'indentation' testing method, though, and will leave a small mark (depending on the material...our machine produces an indentation roughly .004" deep). I'm not sure what clearances, or dimensions, are critical,but Cryogenic treatments (like heat treatments) can alter the dimensional integrity of the part being treated. It's only about 4-6% (don't remember exactly), but, on say...an 18mm shaft (I know you said there was no shaft, just an example)... that translates to ~.028" that could potentially be added to the diameter. I'm no metalurgist, by any means, but it might be something to ask about if you decide to have it done. Perhaps there is someone else who is more familiar with this process? -Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.