Corzette Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 ZFAN, just run a wire from the Tranny plug to a switch with a positive feed on the dash somewhere. As you line up just turn the switch on. When it shifts into third it will lock up automatically and disengage as it down shifts. Thats all there is to it. I use it all the time in cruising. Almost like having a gear between 3rd and 4th. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Grumpy My current setup is this: 350 .040 over KB Flat top hypers 5cc relief total seal rings Eagle full floater H Beams Scat 3.48 Stroke crank AFR 190 Heads 2.02/1.60 70% CNC ported CompCams XR282HR 510/520 at 110LS 1.5 Roller rockers, intake and exhaust AFR match ported dual plane intake to FELPRO 1254 gasket Holley DP 04779 classic with PROFORM main body 70/76 jets did run 72/82 and had better MPH but ET suffered. Best 60 is now 1.591 with MT ETs Champion plugs cold for racing with NOS MSD billet distributor MSD blaster coil with MSD 6A ignition Ceramic block Hugger headers 1 5/8 2 1/2 collectors to 21/2 pipe to X-Pipe to rear and out Dynomax mufflers Deltas? Edge 3500 stall Raptor 700R4 level III with torgue package Hurst V matic shifter R200 354 rear, have tried 411 but like 354 better, CV upgrade Holley Black Pump with return, carb likes 7 PSI Aluminum water pump, valve covers, Griffin radiator Current setup runs best with 4 to 6 advance timing. On cold days maybe 8 max period. I tried the XR276HR and liked it. It yielded a better 1/8th than the 282 and was more torqy by the seat of the pants but tired out up top. The 282 seems much better but I think the top end could be better. Maybe single plane and full length headers? Best time with current setup is 11.91 but was cold out. usually 11.98/12.00 at 110 to 112 all day long with out NOS. Terry Corzette ?? what cam are you currently running? whats your current engine combo? what other cams have you tried? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 corzette, So what is the max timming set at. What RPM is the timming all in, and what valve springs are you using? I'm asking because I have a very similar setup, and I'm running out of steam by 5500 to 5600 rpm max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Mike (the other Mike) ' date=' I apologize for my comments on the dyno. If other people see the benefit, go for it, although I do not recall seeing anyone else supporting the idea. I am firm believer that the only use of dyno output is to compare results of the passes on that session only. I just see too many comments that indicate people are using it to compare one person's HP to another with no regard for variables. Having a SupraTT owner tell me their car makes 1000rwhp on the dyno means absolutely squat to me when their ET was not even close to mine with a measly 520 (estimated). I will leave my personal bias out of this from this point on.[/quote'] Mike? heheh my names Bryan dude Anyways having a dyno database wouldn't really be a 'benefit' so to speak... it would just be something cool to have to look through the same way it's cool to look through the timeslip database. For me the two go hand in hand... the timeslip database is just a cool thing the mods did where others can go and see "hey... these guys with this particular setup are running this... cool to know". I've really never seen anyone come on the boards 'bragging' or really comparing like "heh my car is faster than yours!" I don't think anyone would do it with dyno charts either. It would just be interesting to see... as I said, threads just like this one (someone showing dyno results) do usually garner a lot of attention, which means there must be some interest there for others to see what kind of numbers people are getting, I know I am... I mean hey, I'm over here on the V8 boards ain't I? . I know I often go looking for old posts with dyno test results... it'd be easier if they were just grouped in one place. Well, how about it is anyone else interested in having a dyno test database to go along with the timeslip database or am I really the only one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 corzette, So what is the max timming set at. What RPM is the timming all in, and what valve springs are you using? I'm asking because I have a very similar setup, and I'm running out of steam by 5500 to 5600 rpm max. FASTZ On this build max timing is recommended at 36 degrees. I never checked to see what it is other than one time. I have an MSD billet distributor with the silver spring in it (Standard). I never changed to the blue or red. I reach max advance at around 3000 RPMS. However during my tuning I only worry about initial timing that yields the best MPH or ET. My springs are the ones that AFR put on them when I got them. They are rated at 600/600 I believe. Valve float ocurring around 6500. I only rev to 6000 so no prob there. I built this engine from the AFR site 450 HP 355 Build. Mine is a 356/7 bore though. Here are the specs as tested by AFR: RPMS Torque H.P. 2500 409 204 3000 419 239 3500 441 298 4000 467 357 4500 470 405 5000 448 424 5500 428 450 6000 375 429 Dyno Test Criteria Horsepower: 450 HP Engine: 355ci Heads: AFR Street 180 Heads Mine are the 190 Heads discontinued Compression: 9:5:1 Carburetor: Holley 0-4779 750 cfm Ignition: MSD Distributor 36° Timing Cam: Comp Cams 12-432-8 Hyd Roller Exhaust: 1 5/8" Headers Fuel: 93 Octane Pump Gas Engine built and dyno tested by AFR utilizing an AFR #5028 Street Power Flow Manifold These numbers are pretty close because I dynoed in Japan at Sea Level 82 degrees and ran 379HP at 362 rear wheel torque. However I think that dyno may be a little high as well but at any rate its a very good build and reliable being very streetable. Hell my car is so quiet no one would even know its a V8 but silently kicks major but for a 350! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Titanium, I am running approx. 11 to 1 compression with JE ultra light forged pistons. Bryan, I noticed on your signature you said you have a 1991 Sentra? My friend has a sleeper 91 Sentra with a SR20DET in it. I think he dyno'd 360 to the wheels and boy oh boy does it suprise alot of guys out to pick on a lowly import. Corzette/Terry, I am currently using the cam one step up from the one you use. It really sucks when it comes to producing vacuum. I get maybe 11 inches of vacuum from it. That is really tough on the power brakes! I am thinking of going to the 242/248 version of the extreme energy cam. I think it is the 292 model? I also have the lock up switch you were talking about it. It is controlled by a toggle switch on my dash. The only problem is at low speeds the car bucks and acts like it wants to stall if I throw the switch under 45 mph. I sure would like to gain the 20-25 hp that you all are talking about. Hell with some good sticky tires I could lower my 60 ft.'s and more hp who knows? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Mike? heheh my names Bryan dude Anyways having a dyno database wouldn't really be a 'benefit' so to speak... it would just be something cool to have to look through the same way it's cool to look through the timeslip database. For me the two go hand in hand... the timeslip database is just a cool thing the mods did where others can go and see "hey... these guys with this particular setup are running this... cool to know". I've really never seen anyone come on the boards 'bragging' or really comparing like "heh my car is faster than yours!" I don't think anyone would do it with dyno charts either. It would just be interesting to see... as I said' date=' threads just like this one (someone showing dyno results) do usually garner a lot of attention, which means there must be some interest there for others to see what kind of numbers people are getting, I know I am... I mean hey, I'm over here on the V8 boards ain't I? . I know I often go looking for old posts with dyno test results... it'd be easier if they were just grouped in one place. Well, how about it is anyone else interested in having a dyno test database to go along with the timeslip database or am I really the only one?[/quote'] Hell I agree. I am interested in getting the best bang for the buck. I know people ask what is your intention for the car? TO GO AS FAST AND QUICK AS I CAN lol. With that said tested and proven setups just make it easier for others to follow. We all know parts matching is a must. I truely believe that if ANY Z on this board wins a race we all win. If I get beat by a fellow Zer it excites me cuz I know I can do better and learn from it. If you drive a Z your cool in my book! Now bring on the dyno database so I can figure out how to get this damn car in the 9s with out chopping it up....lol Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Titanium' date=' Corzette/Terry, I am currently using the cam one step up from the one you use. It really sucks when it comes to producing vacuum. I get maybe 11 inches of vacuum from it. That is really tough on the power brakes! I am thinking of going to the 242/248 version of the extreme energy cam. I think it is the 292 model? I also have the lock up switch you were talking about it. It is controlled by a toggle switch on my dash. The only problem is at low speeds the car bucks and acts like it wants to stall if I throw the switch under 45 mph. I sure would like to gain the 20-25 hp that you all are talking about. Hell with some good sticky tires I could lower my 60 ft.'s and more hp who knows? Mike[/quote'] Mike I suspect the bucking is coming from the cam lope and stroke being locked to the motor. Mine will do the same a little when I slow down. Sometimes I have to turn off the switch to unlock it but not always. I would only use it for racing or Highway. Next time out turn on the switch and launch just as u always do and let it lock in third and record ur findings. Again yes with the right tires you will improve the 60 foot and thus run quicker. Your MPH is def there for 10s. Giving up 2 tenths or better out of the hole will def yield you 3 to 4 at the end period. QTPs? BTW Im runing 275 15s so you should look at a wider tire maybe because I know your torque is way more than mine... oh are you running a booster can? I have the moroso can and it helps alot! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottie-GNZ Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 You need to try and simulate the ECM control of the TCC lockup, so get in the habit of unlocking when the speed goes below 45mph. Also, if the 700 converter control is like the 200, then activating the switch at the line will cause it to lockup right after the 1-2 shift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 Scottie, Terry, I am going to try that, locking it up when lining it up at the tree. I think first I will go to my little testing area in the wharehouse district and see how it reacts. I already have a new pair of 235/60-15 BFG drag radials so I will use them up and then look at some 26/9-15 slicks or something in that neighborhood. Scottie you mentioned the new Mickey T drag radials, they are all the rage out here. Just how good are they? I think since I run 17x7 Konigs w/M.Modersport adapters on the street I will see about ordering a set of steel wheels 15x8 for racing only with no adapters. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 Oh and by the way I said earlier that I thought I had blown a head gasket. I pulled the valve covers and put a tork wrench on the head bolts I could get to and found at 75 lbs I could get a 1/4 to 1/3 turn on them. I am going to my friends Auto shop friday and take the rockers and headers off and retorque the head bolts and see if that helps before pulling the heads. I guess I will check the cylinder pressure as well just in case. On another note: I am trying to get off work for the SEZ meet! Wish me luck! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 Cool, the tranny will lock as soon as it hits third gear. The norm is lockup in 3rd and 4th. I always unlock after passing thru the traps. The 26x9 slick would be perfect. Wider like 27s on an 8 inch drag light you will need a spacer and fender clearancing or the car will just squat on the tires. I ran a 275 Nitto with spacer and didnt need any fender clearancing. Car just hit bump stops before hitting tires. Cant wait to see the results....GO MIKE GO! Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 Terry, You mentioned that you are running a vacuum canister, so am I. What kind of vacuum are you making with that cam? I make about 10.5 to 12 inches of vacuum, hardly enough to power the brakes. Did you upgrade your brakes? I did and have had nothing but problems with them. I still have hardly any rear brakes at all. Before when I had drums in the rear my brakes were fine. I am running the 300zx/toyota 4 pots up front and the 240sx/300zx brakes out back. I have also put a 280zx master cylinder up front and swapped lines around like they said to do. Also pulled the stock perportioning valve out back and gutted it and still suck *** brakes. I am beginning to wonder if the zx master cylinder is a waste of time and go back to the stock 7/8" master cylinder. On the tires, 26" is perfect for me unless I go alot faster then problems will exist. I trap at 6200 rpm's at 121-122 mph. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest whyme Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 I have a lt4 stock bottom[crank pistons rods] putting out 364hp @ wheels with 700r4/ 200rwelded we cut it off at 7000rpms for sake of bottom end still making power.All on pump fuel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 What heads and cam are you running? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest whyme Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 afr220 full comp and comp cam solid roller 254 duration if I remember right lift was I think 574 or so. torque was 342 on dyno I think was 2 years back for last tune.s+s hedders and 2 1/2 exhaust.Gets like 15 mpg on the highway with 4.11s If I am not too heavy on the throttle avg 75-85mph Pig 700 is good for something.Would get more If I fixed the lockup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corzette Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Terry' date=' You mentioned that you are running a vacuum canister, so am I. What kind of vacuum are you making with that cam? I make about 10.5 to 12 inches of vacuum, hardly enough to power the brakes. Did you upgrade your brakes? I did and have had nothing but problems with them. I still have hardly any rear brakes at all. Before when I had drums in the rear my brakes were fine. I am running the 300zx/toyota 4 pots up front and the 240sx/300zx brakes out back. I have also put a 280zx master cylinder up front and swapped lines around like they said to do. Also pulled the stock perportioning valve out back and gutted it and still suck *** brakes. I am beginning to wonder if the zx master cylinder is a waste of time and go back to the stock 7/8" master cylinder. On the tires, 26" is perfect for me unless I go alot faster then problems will exist. I trap at 6200 rpm's at 121-122 mph. Mike[/quote'] Mike you do need the adjustable Prop valve inline to equal everything out. You may check the master cylinder, did you upgrade the Booster to a 280ZX unit as well? The 240 is way too small for the complete disk upgrade IMHO. I had a huge difference when I changed to the bigger booster. You will need to redrill hole for that one to fit though.. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest whyme Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 I run ross's 240sx rear brake kit with stock 240 valve and stock 240 master with the oversized vac can and toyo 4x4 up front.Seems to work well for me with all the cam I have still have good assist.And good back. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Frank, I too am running the exact set up you mentioned. The only thing I think can be wrong is the 280ZX master cylinder. I have even tried a vacuum pump but have had problems with the motor not operating properly. I think I will remove the 280 master cylinder and re install the 240 master cylinder. Are you running the stock 240 brake booster? What vacuum canister are you running, I am running a Crane and it seems to check out ok. Also what year 240 do you have? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest whyme Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Mike, I am running that big brake booster off a 2+2. As for a vac can, in my last post meant to say booster from a 2+2 my mistake. {It was early} I am not running a vac can. My tuner has her idleing at 850rpm's vac seems fine.I have never run the stock brake booster myself .I ordered the 2+2 when I was building the car .So I cannot tell you if the 2+2 booster would make the difference.But for me this setup is fine.This is a 71 240z also if I have been vague.Also dot-5 fluid If that may make any difference.I used to be chim chim here long time back,A Dominoes driver rear ended me and brought me back here. Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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